Archive for the ‘Bouldering’ Category

Spring had sprung at slipstones

Friday, March 31st, 2017

With a glorious forecast Karl, Mike, Jamie, me, Peri and Crofty went to Slipstones last Saturday.  We were all overdressed (in varying degrees) for the Summer like weather and even complained it was too hot – in March!  We were not alone the red goat had gone on mass as well.

Lots of bouldering, some roped climbing & lots of sleeping by various members of the party.

Mike chose a super pumpy HVS 5b for the first climb of the day – good effort.  I backed off a VS & let Mike and Jamie take over.  Great day to be out.


Sunday it was an early start (groan) and off to the Peak District for the Edale skyline.  Simon & I were running/walking independently.  Having overtaken him on the first hill – he over took  me whilst going along the first edge.  I had almost caught up with him about 1/3 of the way around when I did a superman dive going through the forestry section – doh!  Didn't see him again until the finish.  Thanks to Gav & Justine for the support going up Mam Tor.  Glorious weather for the race. Main mission accomplished – not timed out and not last to finish!  The fall has resulted in a bicep injury which developed on Tuesday – hoping I may have enough movement to test my arm later next week.

400% success at the Red Goat

Sunday, March 1st, 2015

An impromptu session at the red goat (York's premier bouldering establishment) on Saturday morning had a good turn out by club members. After warming up on the yellows, some of which are quite stiff for the grade, and ticking off the remaining blues, still one to do that requires insane amounts of body tension to overcome a roof, we turned our attention to the green routes. 

Rob failing on the last unconquered blue at the Red Goat

After working the route on the slab for a while, plus a coffee break, the more working of the route, we managed to get up another green. That now makes four attempts on green for rob and four completed since the reset, 400% success – because that's how percentages work. Right?

Tea, coffee and slabs

Wednesday, February 11th, 2015

The sun was shining on Saturday morning so I fired off a quick email to the club and rushed off to Slipstones for a spot of bouldering. Despite only being 25 minutes from my front door, Rob and Paul miraculously managed to get there before me – probably something to do with the fact that they were on route to the Goat (apparently the weather was rather gloomy in York) when they saw my email. That and the small matter of a cooked breakfast and second pot of tea between emailing and leaving the house!

Tea Party Slab

Tea Party Slab

Jamie inching up the slab

Jamie inching up the slab



The short, sharp walk-in and unseasonal temperatures had us all striping down to t-shirts before kicking off with a few problems on the lower tier. Several were ticked, most notably Tea Party Slab which finally succumbed to the relentless assault from the three of us. A highly dubious font 4+.

Rob at full stretch

Rob at full stretch

So close

So close

After a pause for coffee and slabs of Soreen/banana Soreen/bananas (delete as appropriate) we moved on to a few steeper problems with mixed success. Before long the clouds were gathering, and as the temperature began to drop, so did our energy levels and we called it a day.

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Eat Your Greens

Friday, January 30th, 2015

greenGreens 6 : Rob 0
Last week The Goat changed yellows, blues and greens and on a short trip on Monday evening I failed on every new green route 🙁 I can usually puff my way up about half of the greens so I was a tad disappointed with my performance.

red-goatOur regular thursday night Goat session (YAC members get a £1 discount) I caught up with Paul (no Carmen, Mike, Will or Anthony though – slackers) who was resting himself on the sofa. He'd twisted an ankle (falling off can hurt) but thought it'd be ok. After some warm ups and a round of some blues and yellows I discussed my failure and Paul reckoned he could do some of them. So we set off in quest of the soft touch, the green range is V3..V5 and I reckon i fall smack in the middle of these (usually).

Sarah and Peri arrived and a couple of prospective members introduced themselves to Paul (in his YAC t-shirt), who then introduced them to me whilst I was 4ft up, mid move on a blue :-). Sarah's tales of multi coloured toe-nails (not in a good way) kept us amused for minutes.

With a bit of Beta from Paul and some working between us we started to tick off the greens, tea and cake and a chat stopping us for a while. The other thing stopping us is the fact that some of them seem impossible to me, I realise that i wont ever do them all but I now have some targets. Paul left and I stayed a while mixing with Peri, Sarah and a few randoms before heading home at 9.15

Greens 2: Rob 9

First Goat of the year

Friday, January 9th, 2015

red-goatReturning from the US a few notches to the left on my belt and soft as petal skin, it was never going to be an hard core night at the Goat for me. A good team were in evidence, Will and Andy on the harder stuff, Sarah, Peri, Paul and Mark attacking the greens as I familiarised myself with the new yellows an blues.

I got myself a monthly pass, which at £35 is perfectly priced (cue some input from Karl!) to make me visit often to get my monies worth and make short sub hour trips worthwhile. Remember on Thusdays YAC members get a pound off entrance.

See you down there….
https://www.facebook.com/TheRedGoatClimbingWall

Scuggy on fire

Monday, January 5th, 2015

IMAG1457Cold crisp day with bright sunshine is no time to be indoors or sat belaying and messing with gear so I headed for the ever reliable beauty spot of Scugdale on the moors after sending a desperate plea to stop me being billy-no-mates….

Approaching the dale across the solid ice on the shady road I was wondering if I'd be able to make it as plumes of smoke drifted across the cloudless sky – making it look more like Manchester than the moors. Only a few people were there (some typical shite parking) and I wandered up to the crag with a father and son team from Manchester. Sat at the bottom of the crag chatting i realised I was missing more than some friends, my rock boots – plonker.

As the rock is soft sandstone, climbing in muddy walking boots (or any muddy shoes, or in the wet) is very damaging to the rock so I was resigned to a going for a w*lk. I decided to try and find the mythical Snotterdale crags and wandered along to the far end. 5 mins later Jamie turned up which was excellent news as I could pretend to have mates.

We did a few routes, chatted with the other brave souls, checked out the excellent new bouldering guide, as we wandered back along the edge. Jamie's rock shoes being 3 sizes too big for me made the routes interesting but the friction was good even if the cold was a bit numbing on the hands. We played around until the sun had lost its warmth (not helped by the smoke) around 3.30, and headed home.

Scuggy never fails to deliver

Jamie throwing some shapes

Red goat

Thursday, December 11th, 2014

Carmen Upside downThe regular Thursday night at the red goat. There were four here tackling problems when I left. More, I'm told, were on route. Great fun as always.

Quick Scuggy Hit

Sunday, December 7th, 2014

20141206_123233Glorious clear crisp frosty saturday weather made it obligatory to get outside this saturday. Since my planned climbing buddy was muttering something about it being too  too cold outside I headed for scuggy with my  bouldering mat , where I joined forces with Sarah and Russ.It was glorious at Scugdale, as is often the case it was a little suntrap, the low crag line sheltering it from the icy cold wind, which reminded us very forcibly of its presence every time we topped out.  
 

 

russsarahchimbley

The chill encouraged us to keep moving so pausing only to stuff our faces as an aid to keeping warm we ran up and down a succession of routes with a reassuring pile of no less than three pads under us. I even managed to lure them into a chimney mwa ha haa ;-D

It was the ideal activity for a cold day, if we were hanging around to place gear I think our fingers would have dropped off. As usual it was peaceful and away from the crowds, just us and three other climbers to appreciate the views across the valley and low sun on the golden scuggy sandstone. We left as the temperature started to drop again at about three, the short routes had fooled me into thinking we had an easy day, but my aching arms later on told me otherwise.

Scuggy sunshine ….

Monday, February 3rd, 2014

…ok not much of it, but Peri, Stu Bolton and I had a a good few hours up at Scugdale on Sunday.

The baltic wind had dried most of the crag out – a few damp bits were avoided and the sun even came out to play for a bit. Never warm but fingers were ok when moving enough and great to be on real rock for a change.

Wellies still advised for the walk up.
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(Pix from Peri)
 
 

Spofforth Pinnacles

Wednesday, September 25th, 2013

Being unable to give up on climbing outside in the evening a small group headed out of York to a beautiful (read: esoteric) corner of North Yorkshire, Spofforth Pinnacles. This is a local bouldering sport less than 30 minutes from York with a series of blocks scattered across a farmers field, each one accompanied by a friendly cow. Amongst other routes, Carmen and Simon did North West Arete on Tower Block whilst Rob and myself played on the Scoop. There's plenty of climbing to be done, perhaps with a top rope for some of the tougher routes. We managed several routes before the sun set and got to the pub before 9:00, even with a punctured car tyre.