Archive for the ‘Climbing’ Category

Duddon Valley Camping

Monday, September 30th, 2019

After a hut booking cock up (not our fault) we decided to head for the same location but camp at the excellent Turner Hall campsite for the September meet.

Mike W got busy on the phone and we were booked into the site and for a Saturday evening meal at the local pub.

It was a popular meet to this quiet valley with many of the usual suspects arriving Friday either during the day or a tad later. We all set up our tent (and Vans)

Sat was a good weather day, and we were greeted by Mike, Russ and Lucas arriving very early from York. Most of the climbers headed for Wallabarrow Crag, where Anna and Rob got ticking with Anna leading her first multi-pitch and practising removing awkward wires (oops). Peri, Richard H and Jayne got stuck into some classics as did Neomi and Dave D. Simon and Carmen and Annie turned up a bit late (after a brief visit a wet crag), Russ climbed with his son Lucas and Mike soloed about. So lots of routes done by lots of teams.

The cyclists did a little differently, Mike W going for a typically huge road ride and Karl typically falling off his mountain bike a few times

After all arriving back safely and showering (excellent facilities) we headed for the pub and after some discussions over numbers had a pretty good meal and beer or two. We retreated to the campsite and the YAC shelter and firepits, miraculously we didn't burn anything down.

Sunday morning was grey and more of a walking day, a few teams headed for the tarn, a few for minor bumps close to Harter Fell. We all eventually packed up our tents and headed home, some of us after a little wait in the pub for Karl !

Though the majority of our meets are to huts there are some excellent campsites around and offer more family-friendly meets, and as long as the weather plays ball – are great fun.

Thanks to Peri for pix, let m know if you have any more.

Needle in the Sky

Friday, August 30th, 2019

Best laid plans and whatnot meant that after a few weeks of team shuffling, three of us went on a lightweight, faff free and cheap week-long trip to the Swiss Alps. More precisely, Myself, Mike S and Russ W drove across to the Salbit Area near Andermatt. The area is famed for its granite rock climbs on 3000m mountains and there is an amazing amount of rock out there. Unfortunately so much of the info about the climbing is in German and in local guidebooks, hut topos and most likely websites I couldn't understand. We looked at great walls of granite, several hundred metres high with teams scaling them but didn't know what they were on (or more importantly the grade). Mike, in particular, had eyes for many fine lines, likely hard.

After a 20hr drive we arrived on a mid afternoon to a small campsite in Goescheneralp. Basically its a tiny hamlet with a Hotel, a few houses and nothing else except a campsite, lakes and mountains. Not quite as tranquil as it sounds since the campsite is squeezed into a tiny area for no apparent reason. Its something between a festival site and a Refugee camp, with tepees, caravans and all manner of wooden constructions adjoining.  Oh, and it has two toilets and no showers. Still we squeezed into a bit of land, gentleman's agreement about not washing for a week, and got on with it. Something a bit boys own 'vietnam' about it all, but by the end of the week I quite liked the place. and it was cheap.

The main focus of the trip was the South Ridge of the Salbit. (grade D / 5b). This is often called the 'best route in the alps of its grade'. We'd see. The first few days promised settled weather so we decided to hike up to the base of the mountain and maybe 'knock the bastard off'  by day two! Typical Brits with a lack of German, not much money and a penchant for outdoor life we decided to bivi (near the Hut). 2hrs walking got us to the hut, an hour scouting around found us a bivi spot with access to water and then it was onto a 'warm up' route. 

I'd chosen the Huttengrat,on the Gemsplanggenstock 14 pitches and alpine '4c'- (ADish). about 30mins from the bivi site. Block leading saw us getting into the swing of climbing as three, the two seconds simultaneously climbing whilst the leader belayed with a guide plate. Pretty efficient. I thought the climb was great, interesting, enough fixed gear, finishing on a summit (2600m), no one else on route and not too difficult. A scramble and a couple of short abs got us back for tea and early bed ready for days two attempt on the 'big one'.

Arising early, (well 6am as it was getting light) we headed up to the Salbit South Ridge. This is a popular route and our fears about queuing were well realised. In fact we waited a bit before getting going and there must have been a dozen teams on the mountain, most of them in front of us. Setting Mike off first saw us getting up the first four pitches and abbing into a breche. We'd just been behind a team of three Germans who appeared pretty experienced and knew what they were doing. At this point they informed us they were abseiling off the mountain as rain was due to come in. The nature of the ridge makes escape tricky (in short bloody scary)  with this first breche being a classic 'point of no return'. So deferring to their experience and knowing we had a long way to go, we also abseiled off. 6 abseils got us back down the mountain and avoiding a loose gully scramble that we'd gone up. Midday by know and no real sign of rain, just cloudy. In fact the rain did not turn up, no storm and we felt a bit silly for bailing. Hindsight is magic. A slow walk down the mountain feeling slightly sorry for ourselves for afternoon frolics

The next few days were very unsettled and we made the best of it. We hiked up to a another refuge and did some single pitch bolted climbing. Slabby granite with wonderful views, but I found them a tad tricky. An afternoon sheltering from rain in the refuge, exploring other granite walls and back down before we got too wet.  A via ferrata near Andermatt filled another day along with the age old alpine exercise of checking the 'meteo'. The last two days promised good weather so it was decision time. Back for round 2 or go and see something different.

Better the devil you know proved the decision. It is 'world class', 3 stars etc and I was 2 hours hike away, had two rope guns with me and a favourable forecast. Not many times that happens in life. So back up to familiar bivi sight. A bit of single pitching on crags in the cirque filled the afternoon before bedding down. Refined tactics now.

We decided to start earlier to be ahead of the crowds, aiming to arrive at the base at first light. Also, we'd take a short cut and do a two pitch route up to the breche where we'd abseiled from. Justified as we'd done the first part of the ridge previous. I took the lead at the start, got lost, tested an old piton (if it has pitons must be a route….as opposed to the shiny bolt 10ft away just out of sight.) sweated a puffed and got us back to our high point. Expediency (and a bit of fear) meant I put the 'A team ' out in front to get us up the tricky stuff over the next 10pitches or so.  Mike lead the crux (5b) freely and we kept ahead of all other teams much to our joy. We let a pleasant swiss pair pass so we could enjoy the climbing and experience. And it is a good route. Interesting, slightly devious and keeps you guessing and needing some mountaineering nouse. Bolts are spaced, 5-7 per 50m pitch. To paraphrase the Welsh Slate guide 'enough to save you from the mortuary, but not enough from Ysbyty Zurich'. I'd been warned about the grade being 'tough' and certainly felt the swiss grade were comparable with English. i.e 4c swiss = 4c English. So good going by Mike n Russ. Good time as well, about 6hrs up the ridge.

It has a final 'sting in the tail' in that the summit itself is a 15m needle sticking up above the surrounding shattered blocks. A 4c slab pitch protected by one bolt sees you to point were there is no higher. We all took turns to stand, kneel, touch the summit before lowering / abbing off. To put  ourselves into too much perspective we meet another English team who'd done the West Ridge, Mega classic ED1 (English E2 and 20+ pitches) in the impressive time of 7hrs. Skilled in the dark arts they were (and young and fit and good).

A pleasant scramble down and back to reality. Next day it was raining (good) and packing up and a steady drive to the tunnel and back to the mountains of York. So finally, thanks to Mike S and Russ, without whom none of the above for me would have been possible.    

Summer Langdale

Thursday, August 29th, 2019

The club's July meet was in Langdale at the Robertson Lamb Hut. Currently undergoing some renovations this huts in a great location for lots of accessible climbing, scrambling and walking and should be even better when the renovations are completed.

The walkers in the party Andrew and Karen, Pete and Oifie, Donal and Dave D all headed out in good time on Saturday morning to complete their various excursions.


With lots of rain overnight most of the climbers opted for a later start on Saturday, eventually we all headed for Scout crags. Simon and Carmen headed straight for the upper crags and ticked a handful of the routes on there. The rest of the group made the most of the lower crags, Peri, Jayne and even Anni climbed Cubs Groove and Cub’s Crack, .Ana, Adam, Jamie and myself ticked off Cubs Arete, Cubs Crack and The Slab.

In the afternoon the four of us headed to White Ghyll and left the others to do some abseil practice. Quite a few of the routes still looked pretty damp but we managed to climb The Slabs Route 1 and 2 and Haste Not which has an awesome traverse, not hard but exposed and pretty exciting. Some of the guys headed to the Pub for a quick one then we settled down to another legendary YAC meal.

Sunday was forecast to be dry, which it was but quite windy. Pete, Aoife, Jayne and Anni opted for a walk and scramble on Bowfell via the climbers traverse and easy slabs to the top. Then on to crinkle crags where they encountered near whiteout conditions in the low cloud and had to put their navigation practice to good use.

All the climbers headed for White Ghyll this time which turned out to be a good option with the low cloud and strong winds high up. Simon and Carmen climbed The Slabs this time, Peri and Dave D climbed Slip Not, Jamie and Adam did Hollin Groove while Ana and myself tackled Laugh Not. Great name, wasn’t much laughing from me just a lot of huffing and puffing. We abbed off then Ana led slip Knot which has an excellent first pitch, better than the second pitch I thought which is over too soon.

On the way down we spotted Carmen and Simon climbing the classic VD Route 1 on upper Scout Crag so decided to follow them up. Ana led both pitches on this one, the second pitch been the main event with some great climbing as you step round onto the arete. We were soon at the top then descended and headed for the hut just as the rain started and only half an hour later than planned, time to head back home.

Given the dodgy forecast can’t complain with pretty much two full days climbing, still need to get up to Gimmer at some point though.

A Cold Bank Holiday

Saturday, May 11th, 2019
On Beinn a Chaisteil, with Beinn Dorain behind

We were supposed to be spending the early May Bank Holiday weekend in the Arrochar Alps, climbing on the Cobbler, but the weather had other ideas.

Forecast temperatures on the crag were due to be a few degrees below zero, so a new plan was needed! For most, that plan involved staying at home. Rob and Mike climbed on Llanberis slate, but Carmen and I stuck with the original destination, and spent a few chilly days in the southern Highlands.

Beinn nam Fuaran

Saturday was cold but sunny, perfect walking weather, so we decided on the group of 5 Corbetts south east of the Bridge of Orchy. Not a hugely long day (around 15 miles), but being Corbetts there's a lot of ascent between each, the total for the day being over 2000m.

Eagle

The walk was excellent with some superb views, but the highlight of the day was a chance encounter with a golden eagle, feeding on a sheep carcass only 10m or so below us. It soon caught sight of us of course, and was off, but I've never been this close to a wild eagle before, and am never likely to be again.

Mill Bay

Sunday's forecast was for the best weather was near the coast. So we drove for 2 hours towards Knapdale on the northern end of the Mull of Kintyre, for some esoteric cragging at Mill Bay. Good rather than great climbing, and freezing cold despite being only 10m above sea level, but in a superb setting. Well worth a visit if in the area.

Snowtastic

The next day the plan was to climb Meall an Fhudair, another Corbett across the valley. The summit area is a complex mix of knolls and lochans, so we wanted a clear day for it. As we sat in the car at the campsite, the rain was coming down steadily and the cloud lowering so we almost bailed, but luckily it had stopped by the time we parked the car.


Meall an Fhudair from
Beinn Damhain

We almost turned back on the initial ascent, as the cloud came down again and it start to rain, soon turning to snow. But again, before the decision point had been reached it cleared, and the rest of the day stayed dry and sunny. So much so that we added on an extra summit at the end, the rocky Graham of Beinn Damhain. Another good day, and a fine little hill for practising navigation, with great views over the Arrochar Alps, Loch Fyne, and the Ben Lui range.

All in all, a great weekend, and despite the bank holiday crowds on the West Highland Way and no doubt the nearby Munros, we only met 3 other pairs on the hills all weekend.

Bank Holiday Snowdonia Tick Frenzy

Tuesday, May 7th, 2019
looning about

Not the nasty little buggers wot bite ya legs (which are out in force) but those climbs that have been on your list for a while… in my case nearly 30 years !

 

When the club has been in Scotland for the last 2 BH weekends I've been at Helyg the historic Climber Club hut in Ogwen valley, first with Pete B and latterly with Mike Shaw. The hut was hosting only a couple of other people both times (in fact the same couple!) which was great.


Pete and I enjoyed four days of wall to wall sunshine and we made the most of it, avoiding the crowds as much as we could and ticking stuff on my list (oml ). Friday was Tryfan – Munich Climb (HVS 5a** oml ) via Gashed Crag (VD***) and a some random lovely bubbly pitch to finish. Enroute to the car we bagged a S 4a route on Tryfan Bach in the evening sun. On Saturday we headed to Craig Lloer on the opposite side of the valley and a pleasant, if busy, hours walk-in brought us solitude (for a while). Catching the sun this south facing crag has only a few worthwhile routes, and a few more dirty ones. Our target was Kirkus Route (VS 5a ***oml ) The interest in this route comes on the second pitch, a 8m off-width crack soloed by Kirkus (nutter). Graded 5a it's not that hard (nowhere near Brimham standards) not really off-width and protectable with a large (Friend 4/5) cams. It is however really intimidating and excellent climbing. We did a pair of routes on the crag, Central Ridge (VS 4b) closer to 5b and The Rib (S 4a), a really lovely route with exposed, steady climbing up a clean rib/nose. Highly recommended, take lots of slings (but don't fall off ).

Pete on P3 Kirkus route Cwm Silyn

Kirkus's Route P3 Cwm Silyn

Monday we eventually arrived at Cwm Silyn (sat-nag … hmmm) the scene of an inglorious retreat in the pissing rain a few years back. Our target was another Kirkus's Route (VS 5a oml) as it was for the other teams there, so we scampered up ordinary route (D**) instead of waiting in the fall line. It was a good move as the sun was fully on this excellent route that tackles the centre of the Great Slab. After P1 + P2 (Rockfax update has a good topo) the route heads up blank looking slabs in a joyous sequence of hidden incut pockets. Really good and not hard, if you can do P1 you will cruise the rest with a smile on your face.


Bochlwyd Buttress

BH Monday we again avoided the crowds and headed down to Clogwyn y Bustach, home of Lockwood's Chimney a traditional route, (the tradition being get 11 other people, wait for it to rain, all get drunk and leave it till dark to set off). But we had designs on Gallop Step (HVS 5a ** oml) mainly because it starts on the ground (best place) climbs up for a pitch then down for a pitch to finish 70m away on the ground again! You start from a platform (and pete throws your shoes roughly in the direction of the bags and nettles) and traverse under a roof on jugs and copious wire placements cleaning out the grass, dandelions and prickles as you go. P2 carries on and then heads down, making seconding a tad exciting. I thought both pitches worthy of 4c but P1 is a *** experience. Not quite satisfied we had a a spot of lunch in Helyg we ran up a couple of quality Severes at Bochlywd Butress which catches the evening sun. Lovely climbing and only one other team there. That was our lot, more tea at Helyg and we were on our way home.

This May BH we bailed on the camping in Arrochar option (due to snow!) and Mike and I went to play on the Llanberis slate. We figured we could keep out of the cold wind and catch whatever sunshine was available, and so we did. Mike has never climbed on slate before, but it suits his style dynamic moves off tiny but positive holds – mostly.

Starting at Bus Stop we did Solstice (HVS 5a**) and Fools Gold (E1 5c ** oml) (both led and never 5c) and then headed to Australia, a huge quarry with many levels. We wandered to Looning the Tube (E1 5a *** oml) and there was a team just finishing, fun climbing with minimal kit needed and not very hard. Mike took a fancy to the route next door, one of Andy Swann's, Goose Creature E3 6a. The E3 bits is odd, it has 2 bolts but the first is high. The 6a (UK not Fr) is cos it's fecking hard. Mike on-sighted it on lead, I took a few goes at the crux on 2nd. Mikes 4th route on slate and his hardest ever lead! We wandered up past the crowds at the siding to Zippy level, where I led a reasonable HVS 5a that brought us to the Skyline buttress, a new one for me. Its huge and great and I am definitely going back. Mike led the VS 4b, which he didn't rate, i thought it was quite good. Back at the car we nipped ino Bus Stop again this time to catch the evening sun and did Gnat Attack (E1 5c ** oml). More than a tad run out but the hard moves are safe, we both led it in wonderful weather.

Sunday was colder an we headed down into the quarries above the power station to the Rainbow Slab area – somewhere I'd never been- WOW. My target was Bela Lugosi is Dead E1 5b ** oml, a long crack line with lots of gear (mostly). After both leading that we did the excellent sport route next to it Horse Latitudes 6a+ oml, which is quite sustained but never desperate. Mike now fancied a look at Pull My Daisy E2 5c ***, a wonderful route to second. Technically hard climbing (good gear plus a skyhook!) up a crack leads to a pipe sticking out the wall. Place all your gear and now quest off for the top the crag (20m away) without worrying about runners. Luckily the climbing is much easier but not trivial. Great lead by Mike, quite a good intro to slate!

So that was the end for us, forecast was poor for BH Monday so we came back to York and went to work and ticked off all those routes on UKC. Of course Snowdonia is so well endowed with high quality routes that I've filled up my Wishlist again – roll on some more good weather.

Ogwen Valley – March 2019

Saturday, March 30th, 2019
MCNW Hut

Last weekend we had a trip to the MCNW hut in North Wales. Always keen to try a hut we haven't stayed in previously. It proved a bit of a squeeze but we all fitted in. We were rather lucky with a Spring like Saturday and a more wintry feeling air on Sunday – but dry both days.

On Saturday Dave W, Karl and Russ went for a link-up of classic scrambles – Idwal Staircase / Cneiffon Arete and Dolmen Ridge. "Great and popular (well one other person doing the same) link up. About 700m of quality grade 2/3 scrambling. Karl practised the black arts of moving together on Cneiffon arete which was good. Clearly time spent rigging masts has not been wasted".  Simon & I walked from the hut to the East face of Tryfan. The planned climb (Grooved arete) was already busy, as was the first pinnacle ridge – so revised plan saw us climbing the second (first) pinnacle ridge. Simon led the highly polished yellow slab pitch which is somewhat out of keeping with the rest of the route. We finished off by climbing The Wall and then descended to Little Tryfan to do a couple of long easy pitches before trudging back to the hut. Jayne, Donal, Noemi, Ana and Emily went for a walk and scramble on Tryfan, over the Glyders and down via the Devils kitchen.  Justine and Gav (Ordinary route) and Pete B and Adam (Hope and Lazarus) did a variety of routes on a not too busy Idwal slabs.  Peter E met up with his brother and son and walked in to climb Amphitheatre Buttress.  Unfortunately Peter's knee popped on the route and so he had a slow hobble back to the hut having been abandoned by his brother!  Sat night saw us eating far too much food for a change – all very tasty. 

Given the cooler conditions on Sunday only Gav, Adam and Pete B braved climbing on Carreg Mianog doing a couple of VS's and a new route courtesy of Gav.

Donal was heading off to do the Crib Lem spur scramble but low cloud and cold wind deterred him, but he still enjoyed the walk in.

The majority of the rest of us went for a walk from the hut, taking in Pen yr Helgi Du and Carnedd Llwelyn before descending to get out the bitter wind. Simon & I detoured on the way back to look for Simon's microspikes he lost in February. Needless to say we didn't find them! Meanwhile Justine stayed behind to nurse her cold and Pete his knee. We were all back in plenty of time to finish off the leftovers, before completing the clean up & departing. Another good weekend.

Sumer is a-cumen in

Tuesday, February 26th, 2019

No cuckoos yet, loude or otherwise, but the skylarks were singing their hearts out on Sunday as 6 of us drove down to Stanage for the day.

Warmer than most summer's days, it was great to be out climbing (and occasionally failing to climb) in the sun. Various routes were led, a few were backed off, Karl surprised himself by leading an HS before collapsing in a heap, Mike led some hard and bold things, and we all had a great time!

Back to normal next weekend, with wind, rain, and snow on the tops forecast…

Carmen on Wall End Crack, Karl on Wall End Holly Tree Crack
Sarah on Ladder Cracks
Simon on Ladder Corner
Mike on
Death and Night and Blood

Costa de Langdale

Friday, November 30th, 2018

Langdale in November, pack your waterproofs and hope for the best. Except we should have packed our shorts and vests as this was incredible weather.

Staying at the Wayfarers excellent Hut (for the last time before they became a mixed club) we were 20 odd people over the weekend. The oddness level varied as people came and went at different times

On Sat 4 teams headed for the ever reliable Raven Crag, south facing low lying and crammed with good routes (and other people) Rob and Pete B did a bunch of routes that Rob thought he hadn't done before (he had!) Peri, Adam and Andrew ticked some classics (Revelation HS & Bilberry Buttress VS) and Mike and Paul were encouraged to tackle Pluto (an excellent HVS 5a traverse) amongst others. Dave W climbed with a new recruit Daniel and Simon and Carmen were hoovering up routes at minor crags and most of us met up at the Far East single pitch venue as the sun was going down.

Retreating to the ODG for a beer we met up with the walking team ( Jayne, Karl, Donal, Toasty, Richards H &P, Ann … ) who'd been up to Jack's Rake and beyond, and Pete W who'd tagged a run on the end of the valley.

Abandoning the drinkers a few of us headed back and commenced a Roast Ham and ten veg for 20 people, which was a tad late but worth the wait. Suitably stuffed we retired for the evening of gentle banter then not so gentle snoring.

Next day 3 teams headed for Pavey Ark, Pete B and Rob did Coati (VS) followed by Crescent Slabs while Mike S and Andrew did the slabs then got on Golden Slipper (HVS *** with a queue to match and still on my list to lead). Peri and Adam also tackled Coati, starting a little later and finishing well late (after we had all gone back to York!)

Simon & Carmen went climbing easy stuff on Harrison Stickle in the chilly wind and managed three fairly long routes. Richards P&H headed for the very local Scout crag and had a successful day bagging quality easier routes.

Another large walking team headed out to the end of the valley to the Crinkle Crag, Bowfell area in stunning weather. A scramble was tackled and great fun had, sorry no pix as yet…

We all (bar Peri and Adam) made it back before dark and headed home – quality weekend in a great place

More Photos: so many great ones …..

YAC Autumn Ariege trip

Tuesday, October 23rd, 2018

Last October 7 YAC members (me, Simon, Ann, Peter E, Peri, Dave D and Mike) plus James and Sara went to the Ariege (foothills of French Pyrenees). It is a lovely area that Simon & I were keen to return to. Peter and Ann hired bikes for a couple of days and were doing a mixture of cycling and walking and even the occasional rock climb. Sara was also doing a mixture of cycling, climbing and walking activities, including a sightseeing day with Dave D to Carcasonne. The rest of us just climbed – as there is so much climbing around. We were overall pretty lucky with the weather. Any heavy rain fell overnight and we were able to get out climbing everyday.

Several days were spent on the local limestone crag of Calames – climbing some of the quality long single pitch and multi-pitch climbs. Couple of trips to the brilliant granite crag Auzat – La Sabine is a must do route (just as good as we remembered). A trip to a new gneiss crag of Junac, not in the current Rockfax which turned out to be rather good and complete with cheeky goat. A trip to Baychon where the routes were of variable quality and grading – but a beautiful outlook over the valley. Some of the team climbed at Aux le Thermes and some of us went for a long multi-pitch on Dent d'Orlu (granite) which was a top day out with fantastic views and we had the East face to ourselves. Worth saving for the good forecast.

Still plenty more routes and crags not visited. It is a beautiful area with a good variety of rock types and route lengths. I think we might be back again some day (hopefully).

James on La Sabine -Auzat
Simon at top of multi-pitch
la voie des peres tranquilles – Calames
Peri climbing at Baychon

View down valley from Baychon
Mike on classic
Fleur de Rhodo – La Dent d'Orlu
Dave D on
Fleur de Rhodo – La Dent d'Orlu

Tremadog September 2018

Wednesday, September 26th, 2018

Only 7 of us stuck with the plan and went to Wales on Friday night.  A few cried off due to poor forecast – but the forecast turned out to be ever changing.

Saturday morning was meant to be dry but it started spitting soon after we went to the upper tier of Craig Pant Ifan. Jayne came up with us – but then headed off for a walk/scramble up Moel Hebog and dropped down to Beddgelert before heading back to the hut. She enjoyed a long walk, arriving back at the hut via a lift from a friendly bus driver.

The rain held off for a while so we got a few routes done before the rock was saturated again. So we went back to the hut for some food and drink and warm up. Come 3pm the rain had stopped and sun gradually came back out – so Simon and I, Peri and Dave D headed out and climbed Christmas curry. We had the crag to ourselves. The first 1.5 pitches were on wet rock but after that it was all dry and lovely later afternoon.

Meanwhile Peter had been out on his bike from Tal y Bont, on A496 between Harlech and Barmouth, a circular route taking in Pont Scethin, 12 miles, hard and short, pushed up the two steepest hills, one customary crash on way down Bwlch y Rhiwgyr. Rich arrived Saturday evening and was soon telling stories of D of E chaos. Soup, sausages, veg and scones were swiftly consumed. This was accompanied by squeals and swearing as the size of the kitchen spider was realised (by Peri). Has any of us brought it home??

Sunday morning was dry and soon turned sunny. Rich was going to climb with Dave D but injured himself on the way to the crag – so Dave D, Peri and Pete B climbed together in the Yogi area – climbing Yogi and Smarter than the Average Bear. Meanwhile Simon & I climbed Valerie's Rib Direct, Tro and a newly cleaned Quercus.

Meanwhile Jayne and Peter went for a walk – Rhinog Fach starting up Cwm Nantcol then via Lyn Perfeddau and Lyn Hywel – and were rewarded with good views and mountain goats. Back at the crag the rain started just as we were finishing climbing and we managed to be back in the hut when the heaviest shower arrived. The walkers soon returned.

A good weekend's climbing/walking/cycling despite the weather forecast. Never fully trust the forecast!