Archive for July, 2016

Windy Wharncliffe

Saturday, July 9th, 2016

HimmelswillenHimmelswillenTuesday night saw a good turnout head for Wharncliffe crag (Northern Peak District). It was a lovely sunny evening with no fear of midges given the blustery wind.

Many of the uber classics such as Himmelswillen and Tower Face saw multiple ascents – the total star tally must have been rather high with good routes such as Great Buttress, Beta Crack and Remus also being climbed.

Rob was seeking out routes he had not yet climbed – leading to ascents of leaf buttress (v. little gear) and flake climb (wobbly flake, interesting traverse and thinner but well protected upper section – good climb).Tower Face


Tuesday, July 5th, 2016

Combe GhyllAfter a long absence, June's hut meet returned to the Fylde MC hut at Stair, in the Newlands Valley.

The forecast was for a mixture of sunshine and showers, but we decided to risk a spot of climbing anyway and headed for Raven Crag. I was tempted by Raven Crag Gully, which has long been on my to-do list as a summer route (we've done it in winter), but it was dry and sunny so we opted for Corax (HS 4a **) instead – basically a harder variation start to Corvus.

The first pitch was excellent, the second pitch good but dirty, with no sign of any recent ascents despite its stars, which made route finding tricky – so it's possible I went off route! Felt more like VS 4b. We then moved left to finish up the last few pitches of Corvus, which was as good as ever.

We followed this with Raven Crag Buttress (VD ***) which I've done before but Carmen hadn't.  A good route but lots of grass, not really a three star classic at the moment.

Crystal SlabMeanwhile Daves W and D had arrived, and after one or two of the short single pitch routes on the left, did Crystal Slab (MVS 4b **) – an excellent bold first pitch followed by some unpleasant jungle bashing. They finished with  Raven Crag Buttress, while C and I moved further down the valley to Glaciated Slab, where we did a couple of poorly protected Severes and soloed a VDiff.

It had stayed dry all day up until that point, but made up for it with a cloudburst as we left the crag, we were all drenched in minutes.

Having left it for almost 3 months before writing this blog, I can't remember exactly what anyone else did, but I know there was climbing done at Black Crag, Shepherds Crag, and Buckstone Howe, and walking and biking in various places!

Sunday's forecast was similarly iffy, with a greater chance of rain, so we went to Shepherds – a crag I tend to avoid due to the crowds. In the event it wasn't too busy, probably many had been put off by the forecast.

ArdusWe started with Ardus (MVS 4b ***), a brilliant 3 pitch route, Carmen took the steep second pitch, I got the bold final one. Next Carmen volunteered me to lead the crux first pitch of  Brown Crag Wall (VS 4b **) – good but a bit traumatic! We finished with Brown Slabs Face (VD **), which despite being really popular somehow managed to be only marginally polished – maybe we were off route? Great little route anyway.

With impeccable timing the heavens opened as we walked out again. Most of the others had also climbed further along Shepherds, but I'm not sure exactly what!

Some more photos here