Archive for October, 2017

Peak perfection

Monday, October 16th, 2017

The change in forecast led Mike and I to abandon our Tower Ridge plans and head to the Peak which has the best weather for the weekend. With the autumn colours and warm sunshine, it was a good call.

Mike chose the crags based on where he hadn't been before so Saturday we went to Millstone, not the greatest of choices early on as the damp can stay there hidden in the bays. But the rock was mostly dry, we climbed some easier routes and some HVSs at the Cioch area before wandering along to a crowded Embankment, stopping at Great Slab to tick the eponymous HS. Mike led Embankment 3, classic jamming crack with tons of gear, but hard on the toes, and we finished with a romp up the Mall in a glorious orange sunset before heading to the CC hut under Frogatt.

The hut is comfy but was rammed and a tad warm and stuffy but we slept well. The morning did not bring the promised wall to wall sunshine, but rather mist and a hint of drizzle. Like a few other teams we walked up the hill to Frogatt edge (10mins) after Mike had let Simon & Carmen and Russ and a few YACers know where we'd be.

We had a great day, after a slow warm up on Trapeze Direct with its tricky move, doing a few VSs and Mike cruising on 3PS when the sun finally showed itself and it got hot, and Sunset Slab as the sun was starting to decline. Simon and Carmen joined us at the crag and pottered along ticking routes they may have done before ! By the end of the day Mike's toe was giving him a lot of grief (he kicked a rock , then i lent on it – oops) and I twisted my ankle en-route so we hobbled back to the hut for a cuppa leaving S&C to enjoy the best part of the day.

Slip Sliding Away

Monday, October 2nd, 2017

A change from last weekends day trip sport climbing Mike and I headed to Slipstones and bombarded Jamie with txts till he turned up (long story). The forecast was ok but with light rain due at 3. On arrival it was spitting so Mike and I chilled away 15 mins trying to decide what sort of tree is at the car park (Ash) using my British Trees App on my phone.

I've never been great fan of Slipstones as I find the bouldering too bloody hard and humbling and remember the trad as being strenuous. We arrived at the far left end after passing 23 walkers out for a bit of solitude. Mike had been here ore than I and pointe out a few routes. We had a good session warming up on the easier lines , S4a on the corner being a tough start and easy finish. We soloed most of the routes. Mike then launched up a VS which turned out to be HVS, good gear but looooooooooog reaches. Seemed to be the theme of all the routes on this wall. Jamie arrived having taken a mere 4 hours or so to navigate the 25 min approach from door to crag. On most routes we dropped the rope and another person led on the gear and one person seconded. I made a complete mess of a VS, sliding off a smear, twice, to my surprise – ho hum.


We did quite a few VS and HVSs around that end in the company of a couple of other teams enjoying some good banter with them. Remarkably 3pm came and went and only a tiny bit drizzle stopped play for while. Mike led an excellent and tricky HVS with a hard start, harder traverse and a butch finish (including lying in a cave) before we headed back along the edge to some short but worthwhile VS routes, and then homeward via the northbound A1.


Must say best visit I've ever had, I really liked the place. A reminder that crags can change their appeal based on picking the right routes on the right days with the right company. Happy to go back 🙂