Archive for November, 2017

Patterdale Pogg-out

Thursday, November 23rd, 2017

This weekend we were at patterdale in the Cleveland clubs hut, but without the drunken offensive violent member in tow. Friday night's entertainment was Richard H's Pizza Carbonella.

Sat dawned dry but not too clear and teams headed out in all directions. Simon and Carmen running south over the Dodds collecting Wainwrights in quite an impressive haul starting at Sheffield Pike area and ending on Arnitson Crag (despite some impressive nav errors). Donal pushed a lump of iron up a hill to access the High Street plateau and long ride, bringing quite a lot of the hill back with him on his bike.

Karl tackled the classic round of Striding and Swirrel Edges and pub. Dave Wiffen made the day trip and teamed up with Mike Shaw on Pinnacle Ridge before heading over to Helvellyn. Mike W clocked up a 60 mile road ride to approach is annual 5000 mile target, but did have to visit Shap for his sins. He was rewarded with a huge Staveley breakfast before an up'n'over Kirkstone pass and coast to the hut with mud to rival Donal.

Richard, Richard (that's two people) and Annie went Wainwright bagging close to Brothers Water – taking in Hart and Dove Crag and Red Screes and Middle Dodd. Paul ran a slightly brownian route to the Helvellyn ridge before traversing all the way to Red Screes and back to the hut. En-route he met Karl, Dave + Mike, RR+A and Rob. Rob was on a bit of a mission (see other blog soon) to finish the Wainwrights, which he did at 1.30 on High Hartsop Dodd (a pimple!) shortly after meeting RR+A. Paul caught him up with 100m to spare for the top out then headed off to catch the others whilst Rob started the long walk back to Grassmere to collect his car and arrive last back to the hut at 4.30

Karl was back first and set about raising the temperature of the whole valley using just the coal stove as his weapon. A standard YAC feast ensured lots of bodies stuffed with excess garlic bread lying around moaning before we even got to sample Carmen's Rice Pud with chicken bones lemongrass. Of course, we managed that and quite a deal of wine & beer to boot. Karl rounded off his day with a snore fest comatose on the sofa.

After a warm night with some Everett-esq snoring from Richard H we were greeted by a spectacular day- there seem to have been a frost everywhere except in a 10m radius of the hut! Richard P headed off to bag a few Dodds on his way home, Mike broke the journey home with a bike ride but on icy roads was a little spicier and harder than expected. Annie and Richard H headed east from the hut around Angle Tarn and Place Fell.

The rest of the team went to Pinnacle ridge which was in spectacular condition, dry and empty. Karl came with us for a bit but walked directly up St Sunday so he could get home early in prep for a mammoth week of traveling and teaching. The slog up to the start is a bit tough but short and we all arrived after 1.15 hours or so (despite two separate routes). Paul and Simon raced off, followed by Carmen and Donal. Rob and Mike got waylaid sodding about on all the variants they could find, descending as fast as ascending. This soon turned into a team sport and culminated in 3 variations of the crux pitch and 3 of the chimney/rib a little further up by 3 or 4 people.

Eventually we had to finish and head to the summit of St Sunday before a leisurely stroll to Grisedale Tarn and back along the valley. What a cracking short day – 5 hours hut to hut.

The hut was duly cleaned, tea and cake consumed and most people were way before dark.

Simons Pix on FB:

The stars are out at Eastby

Monday, November 6th, 2017

Unknown climber on Nose Climb
On Sunday Dave W, Mike Shaw and myself headed to Eastby. Rather a poor turn out given to gorgeous weather, but this may have had something to do with Dave's email getting caught by most people spam filters.

I arrived a little late to find Mike, having warmed up on Eastby Buttress (VD ***),  heroically retreating off Whaup Edge (VS 4b **) with some pathetic excuse about bold, unprotected moves above a 10m ground fall. We opted instead for Index Variation (VS 5a **), possibly the only time I've bridged up the middle of a slab. Dave followed this up with Knuckle slab (VS 4c **) – more lovely slab wandering – and  I couldn't resist the 3 star classic Nose Climb (S (4a).

Feeling the need to redeem himself, Mike took on the  super thugish Block Buttress (HVS 5a **) which provided much entertainment for climbers and spectators alike.

Mike wrestling with Block Buttress


Dave followed up with the very pleasant (soft) VS 4c *** Pillar Rib, which provided a convenient top rope for  Mike and I to play on Pillar Front (E2 5b **). The moves all went OK (though consistently challenging) but would be an extremely serious lead. I finished of the day with Heather Face (MVS 4c *). Not a very appealing line, though some nice moves, particularly the top. By this point (4.30pm), the sun was setting and the temperature dropping so we called it a day and went our separate ways. All-in-all, a cracking days climbing, and I even made it home in time for the fireworks in Reeth.

Not so Long Sally

Thursday, November 2nd, 2017

With a good forcast for Sunday Rob and I made plans to head to the peak and Gav would meet us there.

Originally we were going to head to Stanage but after getting parked in the Burbage car park decided to head to Burbage north instead. It was fairly cold start, especially in the wind but the sun was out and the views great on a beautiful autumn day.

We found somewhere sheltered and warmed up on a few easy routes in the Ash Tree Wall area and a fairly technical VS made even harder by a eager collie that wanted to play fetch and an owner that liked his herbal cigarettes 😉

Gav arrived and we bouldered out the start of an unlisted variation route (VS 5b on UKC), before heading off to tackle the excellent Amazon Crack and my tick for the day Long Tall Sally. You dont need to be tall for this one, been short potentially even helps when negotiating the bulge and it's not very long either so not sure where the name comes from.

By now it was getting quite busy so we watched a pair climbing LTS but when they started to make it look easy we moved on quickly.

We finished off the the day by taking turns leading the Knights Move (HVS-), then the collie was back so Rob was on stick duty playing fetch (the dog was fetching, Rob throwing) while Gav repeated the route to recover the gear.

We packed up as the sun dropped below the hills to the south then strolled back along the the top of the edge. By now the temperature was dropping quickly so we bid fairwell to Gav and jumped in the car for the journey back to York.

Grey Scuggy

Wednesday, November 1st, 2017


Paul and I headed up around lunchtime for an afternoon bimble at Scuggy. We packed our wellies(always a sound idea for the approach) a couple of mats and flask of coffee. There was one other team at he crag and no big surprise. It was grey, overcast but with a strong wind drying the exposed faces.

We ticked a few routes down the far end, kept out of the puddles, fell off Tippling Wall, a lot, and stuck to the dry rock. Where exposed to the wind the rock was fine but in the shelter very damp and scritty making it uncomfortable and nervy as well as potentially damaging so we avoided those routes. Pingers was Mingers.

Sipping coffee sheleterd from the wind, we watched he light rain south and west of us before a few more routes and making our way home
There's a new cafe in Swainby (closes after 5.30) called Rusty Bike or similar looks good but we thought it'd be closed so drove past.

Aother jolly afternoon avoiding the housework.

YAC meets Brian

Wednesday, November 1st, 2017

9 out of 15 who had originally signed up braved the trip to Wales to meet storm Brian.  Admittedly Wales was not the best place to be heading during the storm – but as it turned out -things were not entirely bad.

On Saturday Mike, Russ and Dave W complete with wet suits and buoyancy jackets headed off for a gorge descent – which they seemed to enjoy. Karl thought better of it and drove around Wales to buy some bolts and café visit.  Pete W and Richard P went for a run from the hut taking in Moel Hebog having to brace themselves against the wind to reach the summit.  Afterwards they went around the copper mines next to the hut.  Annie decided to get the steam train from Bedgellert to Porth Madoc  -so Simon  & I decided to join her.  I insisted in going in the open carriage – we were already wearing full waterproofs from the walk to the station – so it seemed to make sense!  Annie had a whale of a time waving and whooping as we steamed along.  After a café stop at the station and a quick trip to Cobb records (S remembered the store from his childhood) – we left Annie and jogged/walked our way back to the hut, via the part flooded gorge side path and then the hills behind the hut.  Annie got the bus back to Nantmoor and walked back from there.  We all got  rather wet and windblown but enjoyed getting out and earned ourselves lots of lasagne and peaches and brandy (plus merignues and shortbread) for dessert.

On Sunday Richard P was the first out the hut  – went for a run before the drive back to York. Dave W and Mike headed for Idwal slabs – where the did ordinary route followed by an alpine style ascent of the Sub Cneifion arete.  Annie now a fan of the bus went off to Porth Madoc for a walk around the coast.  The rest of us went for a walk up Llwyd.  The weather had vastly improved – still windy but very little rain.  The scramble at the top of LLwyd was interesting with the occasional gust of wind.  We found shelter for lunch in the mines on the way back down and then had coffee and cake (well some of us had cake) before returning to the hut to pack up.

All in all a good weekend despite the forecast. The new hut was good – but with a few teething issues heating/hot water and door wise.  Having said that – the hut was plenty warm enough.