You wait for years for decent winter conditions on a Wales meet, and then two come along at once. After January's excellent trip we headed back in March, this time to the Cwm Dyli hut, below Snowdon, and once again conditions were perfect.
On Saturday, several of us headed for Cwm Cneifion. Routes climbed include Clogwyn Du Right Hand Gully Direct (III 3 *), Tower Slabs (II/III *), and the magnificent Clogwyn Du Left Hand (IV 5 ***) – one of the best routes I've done this season. The others went walking in the Carneddau, intending to climb Broad Gully on Craig Lloer on the way – but due to low cloud, ended up climbing Hourglass Gully by mistake!
On Sunday, most people returned to Cwm Cneifion. Debra scared herself soloing Hidden Gully (II **) while Simon more sensibly chose Easy Route (I *). Peri and Julian did Clogwyn Du Right Hand Direct, and Rob and Will ticked the rest of the crag with Clogwyn Du Right Hand, Far Right Hand, and Farther Right Hand (what happened to farthest Right Hand?!) and finished with a descent of Hidden Gully.
Meanwhile Carmen was injured and didn't fancy hauling all the winter gear up the hill again, so we headed for Tremadog where we did Hail Bebe (VDiff **) and One Step in the Clouds (VS 4c ***) in glorious sunshine.
Probably the best ice of the winter for me. Totally unexpected as well! No sign of frosts in the valleys and hills clagged in. Never say never!
Julians first trip with YAC, first ice route, first ice lead, first Peri moment – not bad huh !
Sat was clagged in and excellent fun romping up the tower slabs and then a Cold Climb classic CD Left Hand. I loved this and felt really confident and strong on it, with fantatsic ice. WIll led through to the left as the 'normal' chimney finish was very thin (looks good though).
Sunday Will and I followed Peri and Julian up right hand after waiting for some muppets to get on the route (we didn't realise they were queueing) . We soloed up the first steps and then i led 50m to a belay and will led through to the top. Great fun. The stuff further to the right is short but worthwhile, and Cleft Gully looks excellent.
For an excellent crag topo see http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=140762
sir! rob's picking on me again! make him stop, sir!