Tryfan from Careg Mianog
The warm autumn weather this year encouraged people out and the November meet at Capel Curig was almost full – in fact we had trouble fitting people round the table in the evenings. Rob had also brought his Movember 'tash. A full pack of mountain bikers was there, with the obligatory start – an On The Spot repair of Annies bike by Pete the Pie. The weather on saturday was beautiful, so while the bikers biked, the climbers headed for the rocks- except for Simon and Carmen who fancied an 8 hour run round the Carneddau.
Rob, PeteB, Angela and me headed for Tremadog to bask on the sunny rocks like lizards. After a lengthy gossip in Eric's Cafe, me and Angela headed for One Step in the Clouds, a 3 star VS which I have wanted to do for ages. It was as good as I had hoped, an easyish start then a delicate and exposed traverse followed by an airy hand traverse along a flake which finishes at the prettiest belay ever, a mossy rock ledge surrounded by holly bushes and rowan.
We arrived at this point late in the day as we had to divert part way up the route to help a team on Hail Bebe who had a dramatic fall after going off route. Neither was badly hurt, but the belayer was pulled from the stance and was unable to get back up by himself due to rope burns. So I was very glad Debra and me had been on a self rescue course the year before which helped deal with the situation – thanks, Paul! There was a slightly surreal moment when another member of their club arrived by abseil announcing "Hello, I'm a doctor". For one moment I expected him to whip out a sonic screwdriver and take on the Cybermen.
Next day was still dry but a lot chillier, so while Angela and a friend headed for Holyhead Mountain, where she did her first ever trad lead – well done! – and Simon & Carmen headed for Tryfan, I teamed up with Rob and Pete who were heading for Careg Mianog, an obscurish but accessible crag with a reputation for catching the sun. Which I'm sure it would have, had there been any sun to catch…
Biceps Wall, allegedly Vs 4c
The walk in was flat but marshy so probably took us about 40 minutes. We found the crag wet in places, and all the grades seemed on the stiff side, the phrase "[insert grade here] my arse!" was used a few times. However we had the place to ourselves and it felt wild and woolly, with spectacular views of Tryfan. In particular we thought Biceps Wall a complete sandbag at VS 4c – tough moves and not very reassuring protection at the start. We ran out of daylight and bailed from the second pitch, managing to get across the marshy section just in time to avoid complete darkness.
Tags: Capel Curig, sun, Wales
Our run wasn't quite the Carneddau – we started over Moel Siabod before heading over Pen y Pass to Nant Peris, then back in the afternoon sun over the Glyders.
Sunday on Tryfan was bracing. There was a queue for our first choice route, we couldn't find our 2nd choice (the guidebook describes it by referring to features that were all hidden in the mist), so ended up on 2nd Pinnacle Rib – a good route, and a very traditional Diff (ie no easier than any of the classic VDiffs nearby).
Our phtos at http://climbing.me.uk/CapelCurig1111/index.html
thats cracked arete VS 4b – yeah right, *** though
On Sat Pete and i did Christmas Curry, Poor Mans P (in 2 pitches !) and Scratch Arete just before dark
great w/e