Before we left York Simon had mentioned that he wanted to walk the Bernia
Ridge, which stretches for about 5 miles northward from Calpe and dominates
the skyline from miles around. A web site provided a detailed topo (although
it could have just said, follow red dots from start to end with occasional
scrambling) and with the local walking guide we were well versed in the
challenge. A beautiful if rather early start and enough bends to keep a
rally driver happy saw us parked and wandering up the track away from the
start of the ridge. Not that we were lost (for a change) just the guide
takes a very devious approach. We were on the ridge in about an hour and
a few pints lighter, with fantastic view over the delightful architecture
of Benidorm! Here we had the first of our reckonings. Carmen was struggling
under a huge rucksack that we lightened to even up the paces, ie gave Simon
the heavy stuff to slow
him down! The route follows the sharp ridge and you can choose your level
of exposure (including a rock bridge and gap for posing in). Perfect limestone
with drops of a few hundred feet for the whole length is more akin to the
AChir ridge of Arran than lakes or Wales, complete with the rescue
helicopter flying beneath us practising touch downs.
We were making good time, the guide claiming anywhere between 5 and 9 hours,
on mostly easy interesting walking with the odd Grade 2 scramble along the
way, usually down! There are a few roped sections on the topo but we didnt
bother with the early ones, a steady head for the traverse and careful movement
on the chimneys kept up the pace. A couple of summits and bad steps
all adding to the experience and with one eye on the clock we soon reached
an airy down climb and traverse, which we roped as a handrail, and Simon
then ignored! The main barrier to the complete ridge traverse is a steep
15m abseil, Pete quickly had the rope uncoiled and tied it into the huge
bolts and sent him down first, obviously. Carmen was introduced to a using
a sling as a backup and packed off with minimal fuss. Safely down, the route
continued with a fine open slab and a short wall (climbed before realising
it was a grade 2 pitch!). The final major obstacle is a short grade 4+ pitch,
arriving early I soloed the first 10 ft (crux) and returned while the rope
and rock shoes were sorted (for those that had carried them). After drawing
straws I led up the ladder of shiny bolts, providing convenient holds and
pointing the way (it is easily frigged for those not wanting to lead it).
Lunch, more chorizo, and we were off on the final section. Dropping to a
col, we debated leaving sacs but moved on, rapidly reaching the ridge top
(where we did leave
some sacs!), a few more small pitches and we were off on the final slog.
The summit afforded splendid panoramas, plenty of photo opportunities with
clouds spilling over the ridge and view along the coast and inland for many
miles. Post obligatory group photo, summit book signing and banana eating
we retraced our steps to the abandoned sacs.
A long descent with weary legs brought us through the leg eating gorse bushes and back via a gentle path past a natural spring with washing facilities and to the car, a bar and eventually the drive home.
Our final day dawned overcast and after packing we left for Penna Roca,
north of Alicante, and quite few degrees cooler than the coast. Being a
Saturday it was quite crowded with some talented locals showing us how to
climb 7a, and a caterpillar train (see Simons pictures) about a meter long
with very nasty hairs. A rather butch 5+ with a rock over onto a slab with
very poor finger holds felt like
HVS wasnt the greatest start, a clutch of 5s and 6s and dogs and we
packed up when the weather turned distinctly Welsh.
The sun was shining at the airport as we ate the last of the food and an uneventful trip home saw me back in London when the others were landing in Leeds. A great trip with lots of new crags, not much hard climbing but plenty of great routes, some adventures and a fantastic walk, so good I did it 10 days later when I was back in Spain. Highly recommended for anyone into sunbathing easy climbing and interesting walking.
Rob Stone