Archive for the ‘Bouldering’ Category

Quick Scuggy Hit

Sunday, December 7th, 2014

20141206_123233Glorious clear crisp frosty saturday weather made it obligatory to get outside this saturday. Since my planned climbing buddy was muttering something about it being too  too cold outside I headed for scuggy with my  bouldering mat , where I joined forces with Sarah and Russ.It was glorious at Scugdale, as is often the case it was a little suntrap, the low crag line sheltering it from the icy cold wind, which reminded us very forcibly of its presence every time we topped out.  
 

 

russsarahchimbley

The chill encouraged us to keep moving so pausing only to stuff our faces as an aid to keeping warm we ran up and down a succession of routes with a reassuring pile of no less than three pads under us. I even managed to lure them into a chimney mwa ha haa ;-D

It was the ideal activity for a cold day, if we were hanging around to place gear I think our fingers would have dropped off. As usual it was peaceful and away from the crowds, just us and three other climbers to appreciate the views across the valley and low sun on the golden scuggy sandstone. We left as the temperature started to drop again at about three, the short routes had fooled me into thinking we had an easy day, but my aching arms later on told me otherwise.

Scuggy sunshine ….

Monday, February 3rd, 2014

…ok not much of it, but Peri, Stu Bolton and I had a a good few hours up at Scugdale on Sunday.

The baltic wind had dried most of the crag out – a few damp bits were avoided and the sun even came out to play for a bit. Never warm but fingers were ok when moving enough and great to be on real rock for a change.

Wellies still advised for the walk up.
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(Pix from Peri)
 
 

Spofforth Pinnacles

Wednesday, September 25th, 2013

Being unable to give up on climbing outside in the evening a small group headed out of York to a beautiful (read: esoteric) corner of North Yorkshire, Spofforth Pinnacles. This is a local bouldering sport less than 30 minutes from York with a series of blocks scattered across a farmers field, each one accompanied by a friendly cow. Amongst other routes, Carmen and Simon did North West Arete on Tower Block whilst Rob and myself played on the Scoop. There's plenty of climbing to be done, perhaps with a top rope for some of the tougher routes. We managed several routes before the sun set and got to the pub before 9:00, even with a punctured car tyre.

Scuggy weekend

Monday, November 12th, 2012

With the great weather this w/e I made two trips to Scugdale as no one seemed to be available for the peak. Scuggy is a great place if you are in 'billy-no-mates' mode as there are loads of easy routes to solo (and i've got most of them wired!) It's also a good place to have a social time like what we did on Sat innit, dude we was well rad.

With Peri, Paul, Graham, Dave S, not-so Sweary Ian and his girls Pia and Erin (leopard can change its spots it turns out) all admiring the parking of Carlton Outdoor Centre. Paul's new mat got a good bouncing on and we all enjoyed the sunshine and some chips and beer post session. We also managed to snare an Officer (not squaddie) Rich into our group, it's like that when bouldering aka messing about.

Sunday Karl and I met Simon Lambert from leeds there, it was a bit cloudier and cooler but we managed a few solos and threw a rope down a bunch of the higher more technical routes which Karl proceeed to test.

one work of warning – the path wouldn't be out of place in a mud wrestling joint – take wellies for the walk in

Wet Widdop Weservoir and a Froggie day

Sunday, October 30th, 2011

widdop in the autumn sun

Here is the short version of our Sunday bouldering:
Me, Graham and Angela went to Widdop, it were gopping wet, we stayed a while then went home.

The longer version – well, it was gopping wet. We stayed till 3.30, but in the end only found a few problems dry enough to get up, everything was horribly slithery. But its a lovely place, overlooking the reservoir with the colours all gold tinted in the low autumn sun, and frustratingly we could see there would be lots of really good stuff with good landings (just as well coz theres a few you have to jump down from) that will be well worth returning for on a crisp dry day.

 

 

 

 

 

On Saturday me and Rachel went to Froggatt. Once again everything was on the soggy side and we suspected nothing much would be climbable, but in the end we did four very enjoyable routes before the weather clagged in again. I did Diamond Crack, a lovely little HS that I am amazed I have always walked past before, and Sickle Buttress Direct, slightly thin pro at the top but lovely moves. Rachel did Green Gut and Tody's Wall, which she managed very slickly.  So a nice day against the odds, but very chilly – it had the feel of one of the last trad days of the year. We were saved the decision between shivering up another route or heading for tea and cakes by the approach of a wall of grey wetness and gratefully abandoned crag for the Outside Cafe in Culver with honour intact – I recommend the St Clements cake.

bridestones flight time!

Monday, October 24th, 2011

Me, rachel and graham went off to bridestones for sunday afternoon (the upstart west yorkshire version, not the Dalby version). For those of you who havnt been there before, its a really lovely bouldering venue, a collection of oddly shaped gritstone boulders and low buttresses scattered over the edge of a high moor overlooking a valley. There are problems of all grades from ungraded introductory and warm up routes, to V silly, and even some micro routes (but thats not what anyone really goes there for). The landings could not be better, mostly flat ground with soft springy turf, its a lovely place to spend those autumn and winter days when its getting a bit brisk for routes.

We started off on a few very easy warm ups then gradually moved the gear up a little – only a little, as neither rachel or me are exactly hard core boulderers. We put the mats to the test when I popped off a problem at the very top, clocking up about 8-10 feet of air time – I'm please to report that the mats were every bit as soft and bouncy as you could wish. Somehow it became 4 o clock and we had only visited three buttresses, and only done a sample of the low grade problems (vb to v2) on those. The grades certainly felt stiffer than their equivalents at the indoor wall – no jug ladders here , just lots of undercuts, slopers , laybacks and mantels. It was like being a kid at the sweetshop, although a lot more tiring. After a couple of hours my forearms felt like wet spaghetti and both rachel and graham were complaining of sore fingertips. Next week we hope to follow up with a bloddering session to Widdop, a nearby crag which makes a useful alternative if bridestones is too windy. And I'm told that the grading is a bit softer – I'll believe it when I see it ;-D

Gimme Shelter

Thursday, May 26th, 2011

After the apocalypse failed to show at the weekend we thought we might as well go bouldering. With no expectations of the gale blowing out, wild horses could not have dragged us to any exposed crags so we headed for the caley boulders. Me, Dave Shield, Astell and John Johnson spent a couple of happy hours on the boulders behind the Sugarloaf, which have a good range of problems. After sandpapering our fingertips on the Pancake, Yule Log and Angel Wall, me and Dave found some interesting looking stuff on some aretes, but you cant always get what you want and despite dynoing like Jumping Jack Flash we couldnt get no satisfaction. So we went back to join John and Astell on some balancy slabs, and there was much grunting, pinging and swearing until the fading light warned us that time wasnt on our side and it was all over now.

sunny scuggy evening

Friday, August 20th, 2010

Will, Clare and me ignored the lowering dark clouds and york races gridlock on tuesday evening to head up to Scugdale.

Once suitably DEETed up against the ravening midges we headed up to Barkers Crags and bloddering mats were deployed into battle position. It was a little hard to find our way between buttresses underneath the Jurassic bracken, but two buttresses were visited and much fun was had. Barkers Crags get less traffic than Scot Crags and as a result we found the grades a little more unpredictable, and for some strange reason a rule of thumb seemed to be that the V Diffs felt harder than the severes. The landings were also quite a lot less reassuring than Scot Crags – less flat turf, more pointy rocky bits. In particular the top out on Pedestal Wall felt quite hairy for a V Diff – at 7 metres you really dont want to be doing unprotected mantleshelfs.

Clare giving it some elegant layback action

Will had been there before and took great delight in pointing out problems which he already had wired – I spent some time scratching my head over the initial moves on Breakout (VS 4b). Will then gave a masterclass in his new technique, the Undyno, which consists of repeatedly and dramaticly failing to latch the key hold on an overhang (see pic below).

Will demonstrating the Undyno

The light all evening was dramatic. A parting between two layers of clouds was spotlighting the hills and vale of york with a golden glow as we arrived, and as the light faded the effect grew progressively more molten. Every so often a top out would be followed by an exclamation about the spectacular sunset.

Finally it was undeniably dark and we headed downhill, speculating about whether Simon and carmen were still climbing – little did we know the crafty devils had skived off for the evening and were sitting at home sipping wine.

Run away!

Wednesday, September 23rd, 2009

Most people have apparently developed an aversion to daylight and are now restricting their evening climbing to indoor walls. This, combined with an outbreak of the lurgy among those who still prefer fresh air, meant that once again there were just two of us last night.

The destination was Spofforth for some low-grade bouldering. It didn't take long to decide that it was all a bit too highball for us, with most of the cruxes being at the top, above back-breaking ledges, so most of the evening was spent backing off problems and/or climbing unlisted lines on bits of rock barely above head height. But it was all good fun anyway, on a cloudy but warm and dry evening.

After a couple of hours, darkness was approaching, so we packed up and headed off. The crux of the evening followed – negotiating a field full of cows with their young calves without getting trampled.

Problems successfully retreated from:
Hang Up (4c)
Jamline (4c)
Green Wall (4c)
Exclusive ("4a" sandbag)
Lime Hole (4a – got as far as the finishing holds but couldn't face the final mantelshelf onto the grassy gravel-strewn summit)

Problems with failed retreats (accidentally completed):
Birds Lavatory (4a)
The Arete (too easy to grade)
South Face (too easy to grade)
North West Arete (4a)
Pot Scoop (too easy to grade – surprisingly good despite starting in a gorse bush)
Pedestal Arete ("4c" closer to 4a, maybe the grades of this and the adjacent Exclusive got swapped)

Old Macdonald had a road

Thursday, August 20th, 2009

The turnout for a club climbing night increased two fold when four of us made it to Scugdale on Tuesday (me, Peri, Simon and Carmen). We were rewarded with excellent conditions: warm enough to be in T shirts but cool enough for good climbing and enough wind to keep away the midges. Although all of us have been to Scugdale many times, we all managed to tick routes we hadn't done before.

Me and Peri warmed up on The Mantelshelf (HS 4b) before going back and repeating Pingers (VS 5a) (just to check it wasn't a fluke last time). Simon and Carmen arrived and decided having 3 bouldering mats was going to be their best ever shot at doing Pingers so also had a go. In the end, both decided to use it as a warm-up exercise by hanging from very small holds for a very long time before eventually jumping off, saving it for another day. Simon then got majorly sandbagged on Pluto (HS 4b) while me and Peri threw ourselves at Pingers left hand (VS 5a or 5b). Peri eventually getting up while I ripped a nice circle of skin from my finger.

Me and Peri had a good squirm up Plumb Line (S 4a) while Carmen led Pet's Corner (HS 4b). Lots of other routes done on the night, culminating with me losing my bottle one move from the top of Corner Direct – left (S 4a). As I contemplated my impending fall onto an uncomfortable looking boulder, Peri coaxed me into reaching for the top where, as promised, there was an uber jug. With adrenaline supplies running low, we decided to call it a night.

On the drive home, someone seemed to have transferred all their livestock onto the lane to Swainby. First we came across a calf which we herded for about half a mile before it scarpered off up a track. Next were two sheep standing nonchalantly in the road eating the hedge. Finally, we waited while a hedgehog very slowly crossed the road in front of us.

No pictures unfortunately.