Archive for the ‘Route Setting’ Category

Route Setting

Wednesday, December 3rd, 2008

As if doing a 12 mile walk was not enough Peri & I decided to attend the Saturday night route setting session at Oaklands.

When we arrived Gareth, Chippy, & 3 others were already well into stripping the bouldering wall & mounting a new volume (feature) on one of the overhanging walls.

Sadly there were not enough ascender kits to enable more than 4 people to work at any one time so Peri stripped & set a route while I tidied up holds, screws & bolts. After this an ascender kit came free & I stripped a route on the 'new feature wall'.

The work carried out on Saturday night has made a significant change to the wall, the new feature and routes will give everyone a chance to try something different.A visit in the near future is recommended.

What to do on a dull Tuesday morning in York…..

Tuesday, June 17th, 2008

Go route setting at the Oaklands wall

So I drove over to the York wall just after 8:00 am,  they hadn't even switched the lights on.

Anyway Jonathan and I started striping some of the old routes down and putting up some new ones.  At around 10:15 the late shift arrived ( Rob el presidente ), so he did get a bit of a ribbing for being late….

Any way the changes

The purple/purple with white tags 5/6A on the slab has been replaced with another purple 5/5+.  Rob wants to start playing with tape and set another eliminate route on this.  So watch out for some coloured tape arriving on some of the holds.

Jonathan replaced the light blue 6A+ on the vertical red wall with a light blue 6A.  The use of the right side wall and corner is on, if you do it without the corner and wall it is slightly harder, possibly 6A+.

Once Rob got his rope up an all his ascending gear together he stripped the green 6A/6A+ from the right side of the small/baby overhang wall.  There wasn't enought time to replace this route.

The next Saturday night route setting will be on the 5th July.  It is open to climbers of all standards and full training is given to people who have not set any routes before.  If you want to come along please let me know so that I can forward a list of names of the wall.

Have fun and be safe


May's last routes at Oaklands

Tuesday, May 27th, 2008

Yac'ers in force on a Sat night ! how sad are we 🙂

Andrew G and Clair U and a 'Vagrant YMC' did their training and a bit of stripping while Cef and I stripped routes, I tried to put up a green 6a/6a+ but the holds left were rubbish so it feels a bit odd, layback start and a few small holds lead to some big jugs.- 6a+ ???

Andrew added a bright PINK to the small O/H at about 5+

Tues saw me put up a purple on main overhang right hand side, – aiming at 7a – ive no idea how hard it is , maybe 6c/6c+/7a ????? I can do the moves but i can't link them all  in one go, I was quite pleased in the end. It feels really sustained, but good with a sting in the tail – wonder what peeps will think.
Cef put up a route in the Alcove which was ok and J a really easy orange on the slab.

Route Setting starts again this week

Monday, April 28th, 2008

after easter break tuesday morning is back on!