Archive for July, 2008

Gates are IMMORAL

Tuesday, July 22nd, 2008

Six of us decided to brave the Wye Walk – not on foot oh no  that is too benign for the average YAC member- we chose to do it on two wheels. Thanks to the intrepid 'navigational' skills of Dan (my other half) we started out from three different directions only to be foiled by fences, gates and walls. Eventually we found our way on to the Wye Walk to start our adventure in search of Monmouth and cake. Along the way we encountered some lovely forests filled with dripping ferns and moss covered rocks, some hairy downhills with trails strewn with branches, brambles and nettles, many gutwrenching uphills and a number of fences and gates – it was like portaging but with mountain bikes. Along the way we stopped at the Boat Inn on the Wye, a lovely country pub nestled underneath a disused railway bridge – but be forewarned don't try to eat your sandwiches on their benches unless you want an earful from the surly landlord. 

After downing our pints and gobbling our sarnies behind the cover of the bridge we headed uphill (AGAIN) towards Monmouth.  Our intrepid leader took us through what appeared to be a hay field – he thankfully managed to collect most of the grass in his rear derailleur – then we went along a steep boulder (or they appeared to be boulders) strewn path at a steep angle to the river to another grassy field. We all opted for the road – suicidal motorcyclists and maniac mini-van drivers were more favourable to yet another slog through the grass.

Upon arrival in Monmouth we headed for Henry's Cafe for much needed cake and tea – cake is ALWAYS much needed if you've been sat on a bike for a number of hours. After consuming all the fat and sugar we could it was time to leave Monmouth – in the rain- for the backwoods. We found the trail – uphill again and climbed, climbed and climbed some more only to throw our bikes over some more fences before we took off downhill. At the bottom of the route Annie took off like a demon to get to her soiree, only to discover that she'd gone in the wrong direction!  We sent John off to rescue her while Andrew & Dan sorted out our direction. We continued the rest of the way on the road to Brockweir and the mother of all hills.

I cannot add comment about the final climb as I'd been left behind at the local watering hole with an injured back. The landlady fed me paracetamol and told me to wash it down with a pint of cider – it worked a treat!

Tracy

Glorious Sandstone of Scugdale….

Thursday, July 17th, 2008

Well after missing the YAC Tuesday night climbing sessions for the past few weeks another climbing friend suggested heading out on Wednesday night.

So there I was heading off to meet up with John Byrne and Pete Crosby, two non YAC people that quite a few club members know.  The original plan had been to head for Brimham but the late afternoon weather check showed that rain was heading across the country from the West.  So we decide to head for Scugdale on the North York Moors.

Well after a short slog up the hill ( just enough to get the blood flowing ) we started cautiously to boulder and solo various routes, as we relaxed and got the "feel" for the sandstone harder things were led, top roped, soloed and bouldered.

The wind died down and the Sun came out to give a glorious evening at the crag.  For the last route of the evening we top roped The Prow E1 5A ( no gear ) tough little thing but a great route.

We all felt knackered by 8:45 so we headed for home.

Cant wait to go back again as Scugdale is a magic little place, you should all go there regularly.

"which is accessed via a 5 minute walk up the path behind the gate"

Thursday, July 17th, 2008

David Dickinson on Square Chimney (HVD *)…or so says ukclimbing.com. I arrived for my first time at Caley with Rob and Peri and was surprised to see only one other car parked in the layby. Rob confidently announced we were in the right place and set off beating a path through the metre-high bracken. I tried to keep pace with him while Peri swam her way through, using her bouldering mat as flotation. After 10 minutes or so of this with Rob occasionally saying "I've definitely seen that boulder before" we realised we'd come to the roadside boulders rather than the crag. Undeterred, Rob assured me it was only a short walk to the crag and that there was definitely a big path that would get us there. By this point Peri was disappearing behind us into ever deeper bracken and giving increasingly desperate cries for help. 20 minutes later we finally emerged from the bottom of the bracken at the layby where we should have parked, approximately 200 yards from where we set off half an hour earlier. With no sign of Peri, we gave her up for dead and headed for the crag. By the time we got there, Simon had already completed an onsight lead of The Scoop (VS 4c **) with Carmen, while Dave and Gordon were working their way through Holly Tree Scoop (D *) and Square Chimney (HVD *).

Will on Pedestal Wall (S 4a **)By the time I was geared up and setting off up Pedestal Wall (S 4a **) Peri finally emerged at the top of the crag muttering something about the source of the Nile. She then spent the rest of the evening getting a comprehensive guided tour of boulder problems from friends (Dave and Roman) who actually knew their way around. I managed to make Pedestal Wall into a bit of an epic by doing it "old school" (i.e. missing an obvious cam placement) to get rather far above gear. After a bit of faffing I finally did the excellent exposed finish.

Rob at the crux move of Noonday Ridge (E1 5b ***)While everyone else was getting through a decent number of the lower grade routes, Rob suggested he have a go at leading Noonday Ridge (E1 5b ***). An hour later, he was almost ready to go for the crux move (12 feet off the ground). By using an ingenious method for joining two nuts together he had been able to tease some solid gear in to protect the crux. Despite valiant efforts to to do it free, it seems he had used too much energy up placing, removing and re-placing four different bits of gear. In excellent French Free style, he negotiated the crux move and made easy work of the dubiously green slab above. With my hands now frozen solid I cruised up the crux cleanly (yeah right).

So only a couple of routes done on my first visit, but at least I now know how to get to the crag!

Bowland Challenge

Thursday, July 17th, 2008

Carmen near Ward's Stone summitHistorians of YAC will know of our excellent pedigree in this event, culminating in the glorious victory of last year, so the pressure was on to live up to the high standards set by our forebears. Unfortunately training for this, my first such event, had not gone well (I hadn’t done any) and my Challenge partner Chris (who I had never done any walking with before) was recovering from two broken wrists so was in no better shape. In short, we were not well prepared and I knew I would need to draw on every ounce of my experience, fitness and supply of Breakaway biscuits if we were to even threaten the leaderboard.

 Having pitched our tent on the Friday evening we decided to lay down our first psychological marker at the route planning stage. This was a tortuous process with each team given a list of around 80 grid references that had to be plotted onto a map before an appropriate route could be designed and submitted to Challenge Control that night. It was during this exercise that I made a valuable discovery: consumption of real ale allows you to plot grid references much more quickly, confidently and accurately than would normally be possible.  I made a careful note of my findings and felt sure my hypothesis would be proved correct the following day.

 Awaking to blue skies on Saturday morning we left the start line at 7.30 am, just a few minutes after Team YAC (Simon, Carmen and Alan). The first few hours went beautifully as, fuelled by bacon butties, Fig Rolls and Breakaway bars, we romped among the peaceful grassy valleys, farms and low hills that surround the campsite. For the uninitiated the concept of the Challenge is straightforward: teams have 10 hours to walk a route that takes in as many grid references as possible and each location yields the answer to a clue. Some references are worth more points than others depending on location and remoteness. Good ground, easy navigation and fairly straightforward clues meant we were well on schedule when we finally broke out onto the open fells at around 10.30.

 From here things got a little harder as we cut across empty swathes of bog to the summit of Wolfhole Crag, the remotest (and one of the smallest) gritstone crags in the country. As a devotee of esoterica I half expected to see Simon here, thrutching up some VDiff chimney in his trainers but bar two spindly fellrunners it was deserted. Moving on from the summit, where we picked up a massive 20 points, we made our way along the broad ridgeline, where several members of Bowland MRT were keeping an eye on competitors from a tent, as well as salivating over a copy of ‘Nuts’ magazine.

 By now it was around noon; teams had to nominate a time by which they would arrive for lunch at one of two points and a late arrival meant losing points. We had a big decision to make: we could play it safe or bomb down into the valley to pick up some additional clues before tearing back up a steep hillside to the lunch huts. We opted for the latter. Alan on the last ascent, Ingleborough in the backgroundAfter an ankle-shredding descent to the valley (meeting Simon et al who were coming from the other direction) it was here that my hypothesis of the previous night went badly wrong. We couldn’t seem to locate the information board in the village that we were looking for. Short of time I re-checked the grid reference from the original sheet. I had mis-plotted the reference by a whole kilometre. We were in the wrong place. Already short of time we set off up the hillside, me swearing and apologising in the knowledge we had lost a good 30 minutes and were up against it to get to lunch on time. Chris took this all pretty well and after setting a fierce pace we arrived with a few minutes to spare, sweating freely, legs feeling like they were encased in concrete.

 After a weary start to the afternoon’s efforts, morale picked up on the summit of Ward Stone thanks to a useful combination of cheese, more Breakaway bars and some easy points. From here we headed off to Clougha Pike, grateful for the combination of boggy footpath and landrover track. A quick visit to a beautiful Andy Goldsworthy sculpture Andy Goldsworthy sculpture on Clougha Pikeon the summit slopes saw us gain more valuable points and we began to think about the homeward stretch. Coming off Clougha we opted to try and hoover up several references in the last 90 minutes. Unfortunately this was also the toughest terrain of the day: tall reeds and marsh on the flat with tussock and hidden rocks on steep ground meant slow going. Somehow, Chris had maintained dry feet until this point but it was not long before he sunk into a knee-high bog which evened things up a bit.  It was here that the fatigue really set in and I was grateful for Chris’ excellent navigation in a tricky area that saw us pick up all the points we were looking for. By 5 we had hit the road which gave us a full 30 minutes to cover the last kilometre to the campsite. With no time to pick up clues away from the road we ambled gently back to the start.

 After some excellent buns and hot chocolate provided by our support team (my girlfriend Jill) it was time for the highlight of the day: dinner. It was here that the YAC members were in their element and we laid waste to the enormous spread put on by the Bowland MRT.  I decided to forgive the real ale for the manner in which it had led me astray the night before and had a few beers whilst waiting for the results. It looked as if Team YAC were set for another victory as their impossibly long route had taken in most of the county and, unlike us, they had probably not made any hideous navigational cock-ups. Chris and I would have been happy to finish mid-table so were delighted when we learnt we were third, only 10 points off second with Team YAC a long way ahead in 1st. Simon collected the trophy and posed for a few snaps from likes of ‘Hello!’ and ‘OK’. Not content with this he also managed to win the Cotswold Outdoor prize draw too: snaffling up a snazzy dry bag whilst I picked up an oversized fleece from the raffle.

 Once the euphoria of the results had ebbed away it was time to take to the tents and give our aching muscles a chance to contract and seize-up completely overnight. Morning came with the recollection that I had promised to do the event next year as well as a mountain marathon in 2009 too and, to tell you the truth, I can’t wait.

 A big thanks to the Bowland MRT for making it happen and to Chris for putting up with me for the weekend. Alas, I didn’t take any pictures but Simon grabbed a few which you can see here: http://climbing.me.uk/Bowland2008/index.html

More information about the event can be found at http://www.bowlandchallenge.co.uk/

The best day of the week

Monday, July 14th, 2008

RoughWall

late on saturday the relentless rain relented and the forecast for sunday was good. The text summons came round – Cefyn, Peri (yac) Dave Roman and Andy(not yac) were all up for a day at Brimham. Sunday came and so did the sun! loads of it! We hit brimham at the crack of 10.45 and kicked off on Rough Wall(VS 5a ***), which finally allowed me to lead it cleanly. After ritual yelps and whoops from me at the top (this thing has spat me off more times than I'v had packed lunches) Roman arrived and led the thing coolly onsight. Pshaw.

Next Cefyn led Square Root(HS 4b) as he wanted to try out his shiny new tricams in the little pockets. He was very pleased with them and Roman thought it best not to mention that the bottom one had popped until he topped out. Andy led Cubic Corner then we all headed for Cleft Buttress where Roman led Lancet Crack (VS 5a), while me and Cefyn headed over to Cracked Buttress. I decided to try a lead on Parallel Cracks (VS 4c), which went all very smoothly till I decided to try for the left exit with the hidden hold. Ah, problem. Couldnt find the hidden hold. remembered its a long way back, had no idea where. Chickened out and teetered precariously to the right hand exit – ah, no big cams left, they are all on the left side. Major wibbling set in, I managed to pop in a dodgy hex and decided to just hurl myself at the top, leaving the other hexes dangling, a decision i was later to regret. After an undignified but clean top out we discovered that one of the unused hexes had slipped and wedged itself securely and an hour long gear epic ensued. Eventually I decided to bring in Dave, the King of Gear Recovery, so went back to Cleft Buttress – what were they still doing there? – where I found him and Roman busy having an Overcammed Friend Recovery Epic.

So. To cut a long story short, dave and Roman had bets for beers on who could get both sets of gear Dave starting the traverse on Lithosout and eventually all was recovered, Andy led Right Hand Crack (VS 4b) which he has wanted to lead for ages , dave led Duggies Dilemma (VS 4c, totally unprotectable) and then dave me and cefyn (Roman and Andy had left for family responsibilities) headed to Lithos (HVS 5b) at the back of the Pig Traverse area. Dave made a tremendous start on the lead but ran into difficulties just below the top, the move was very tenuous, the gear was dodgy and coming off would result in a huge pendulum smack into the corner with no helmet on. So he wisely accepted a sling from above as insurance – better to blow the onsight than make a sticky mess on the rocks – and then topped out. Me and Cef followed him up, and all I can say is, it was a fine and bold lead even if not completed cleanly , the crux move was pure evil.

Missions all completed, it was now 8.30 pm, we had been climbing in warm sunshine for 9 hours solid and had ticked lots of ticks, so we retired to the car park for warm beers from the back of my car and went home. It was the best day of the week!

Not firing on all cylinders …

Monday, July 14th, 2008

or maybe just too tired. Alan Walmsly and I headed over to the lakes Sat morning and went to Castle Rock where we both have routes on our wishlist. Castle Rock is steep and stays dry in light rain but we were surprised to find a few seepage lines.

I started up Thirlmere Eliminate (E1 4c,4c,5b) with some interesting moves of a flake, the first pitch is soon over. Al then headed across on the traverse to a dripping corner not wasting much energy placing gear, a cool headed lead up the bold hanging rib/arete just past the wet corner. Belayed to a peg and 3 nuts it was my turn at the sharp end. The route goes over / around an overhang using the right wall, which had a nice stream running down it in a few auxiliary holds, but most of the footholds were dry. An adequate rock 3 protects the moves – if I could commit to them – which I couldn't despite 3 goes. The crucial hand hold was sopping and the next was a thin layback – with wet fingers – no thanks. Al had a pop and we called it a day – abbing from a tree back to the ground.

We recused the day with an ascent of Overhanging Bastion (VS+ 4a,4b,5a) some 18 years since I'd previously led it! Top route with Al getting the wet pitch again – hmmm. The grade has yoyo'd between VS and HVS for years, the crux move i found easy for 5a but bold as brass – I'd give it HVS 4c overall and recommend doing it in 2 pitches to the Yew tree belay – one of my fav places.

The Pub at Seatoller was closed – what use is that!

Sunday saw us flog up to high Crag in Buttermere, a compact crag with a whole bag full of good mid range routes. We started off on the classic High Crag Buttress (HVS 5a,5a). Al led up to the 'eyes' clipping a stuck friend en route. Continuing up the 'nose' between them awkwardly (5a not 4c) to a great belay cove. I followed dreamily, spending about 15 mins not getting the friend out (it's shagged despite initial appearances). Quick (ahem) change over and off I went, boldly up the rib on the right to a solid thread, then quite delicately and wildly out on a traverse before pulling up into a groove so to the top. Abbed down, through a dead sheep with ropes lying in a puddle !

That took us ages, and combined with a late start and a total feeling of lethargy we decided to call it a day – The Philistine (E1 5b *** photo) will have to wait for some sunshine – a commodity severely lacking over the weekend – until we started out drive/sleep home.

So basically we both felt knackered and not quite up for it the whole w/e but still got a couple of excellent routes in top places, given the initial forecast pretty good all in all.

What to do with this rainy summer weather? PART 2

Friday, July 11th, 2008

Thursday 10th July

So there I was on the phone with Peri,  she said "it's the best day of the week let's go outside"…

A friend of hers was working in Rotherham so the initial plan was to head to the Peak district.  We started driving down to Sheffield and ran into a few rain showers on the way.  As Peri had not driven through the centre of Sheffield for a while I navigated us onto Ringinglow Road and we followed this all the way to Stanage popular end.  We started walking up discussing what climbs we wanted to lead April crack, Christmas crack, Hargreaves Original route, Gargoyle buttress…..

So we arrived at the Black Hawk area and I started up Back Hawk traverse left , I took the right most higher crack to make it more interesting. Near the top I started to place a medium size hex but then decide to use a cam instead but as I was looking at what was on my harness the hex slipped and went 12-16 inches down the crack.  I couldn't get it back out so I left it for Peri to have a try with her smaller hands.  She could not get the hex out and we had to leave it, what we needed was a 2 foot long stick or possibly a very long nut key.  As I sat at the top of the climb I could look out to the cement works and watch the rain showers slowly moving towards us, luckily they veered away and we did not get wet.

We walked around back to the bottom of the climbs and Peri wanted to lead Black Hawk Hell crack.  We had a look at the approaching weather and decide to wait a few minutes to see what would happen.  We had both put on our windproof/waterproof jackets.  Peri decided to set off and start leading with a few sprinkles of rain falling.  As she got about a third of the way up, to where she needed to rely on some friction moves, the heavens started to slowly open up, she decide to move right onto Black Hawk traverse right and once she had moved up past the off width section she was dry under the capping stone,  she moved back left and finished the route.  When it came time for me to second it, the water was running down the rock and the green areas were getting very slippery.  Any way I made it up safely and as usual as we got back to our rucksacks the rain stopped but everything was dripping so it was end of climbing for today.

So in two day I have more than doubled the number of outdoor trad routes I have led this year, I am now awaiting tomorrows call where Peri will say "it's the best day of the week let's go outside"…..  now I wonder what that will bring !!!

What to do with this rainy summer weather? PART 1

Thursday, July 10th, 2008

Wednesday 9th July

So there I was on the phone with Peri,  she said "it's the best day of the week let's go outside"…..

I said I had to be back by 4:00 pm as my daughter was staying with me.  So we decided on Almscliffe.  Now I have not been to Almscliffe since 1995, the thoughts of "the polished horrors of Almscliffe" were going through my head.

Any way Peri picked me up and we started heading out of York on the A59 as we past over the A1 it was bugger the Yorkshire show….. well it was only 11:30 and the traffic had not started to build up, but we decided that we would come back to York via a different route.

Well we walked up to the crag and decided to start on something easy,  Peri said we could start on fluted columns.  I looked at the route from the bottom and said OK I will lead this.  Well it had its thought provoking moments ( only my fourth outdoor trad lead all year) but i was a very good climb.  Peri then led Flake climb another nice climb, good jams and good gear.  Hmm now where is all the Polish ?

We started to get a few drops of rain falling on us so we decide to shelter by the Matterhorn boulder and wait to see if it was going to pour down, the shower soon moved on so we walked up to High Man as Peri wanted to climb Birds nest crack.  She led the route very nicely with a few small rain drops falling around us, as I started to second the route I found some of the Almscliffe polish.  But it is a good route with good gear and some very good hand and arm jams.

Anyway after this we went back to the Low man and I lead Stew Pot to finish off a very enjoyable day ( the rain had started to fall a lot heavier, so we left).  We went back to York via Tadcaster to avoid any show traffic problems.

Almscliffe was a lot better than I remember it and will have to go back soon.

Ravenswick Quarry – North York Moors

Thursday, July 10th, 2008

Left Unconquerable - Peri decides to layback the jamming crack, for reasons best known to herself! Last Tuesday the club made its first outing to Ravenswick Quarry near Kirby Moorside. Originally we had planned to climb at Peak Scar but the heavy downpours in the afternoon meant we had to find somewhere that was quick drying and Simon C suggested Ravenswick, despite having had poor reports about the crag (from Peter). Anyhow a larger than usual contingent turned up, Simon C, Carmen, Peri, Gordon T, Will, Dave D, Rob, Alan W and me (Peter E).

The climbing is steep and the gear is not very good and the top outs are in some places a mass of thorny bushes. Some of the group actually managed to lead routes but others were content to solo easier stuff and top rope.

Rob on Right Unconquerable - will that flake fall off if I pull too hard?

Will, Peri and Peter all climbed the first few moves of Tilted Crack (HS) to have a look at the rotten rock in the crack above.

There was a particular route Left Unconquerable (HVS 5a) on which Peter seconding, got very excited, the route is a complex series of arm bars,  toe jams and hanging on for dear life. As Peter approached the top he was heard to scream I'm coming (off) when he should have simply asked Peri for a tight rope. A couple of moves later the solid nature of the rock was verified when a brick sized hand hold separated from the rock.

Peri Crystal Wall - Severe My Arse
After the stress of Left Unconquerable, Peter and Peri moved to Stepped Arete (V Diff). The first piece of gear is a solid thread but after that the leader has to rely on two marginal friend placements.
Peri spent some time building up her confidence in the gear before moving up, seconds late she was on the ground sitting beside me as both the friends had popped out.

 

I think my poor reports about the crag were justified and there are far better places on the moors, although not many as quick drying as this.

Peter

Wet Wet Wet

Wednesday, July 9th, 2008

I feel it on my fingers, I feel it on my toes, Rain is all around me, And all my feeling goes…

Yes, it's the Saunders Lakeland Mountain Marathon 2008, based around Helvellyn.  YAC are represented by Carmen and me doing the "Bowfell" course and Simeon and Alan on "Carrock Fell".

Despite the forecast of rain from the start, it actually stayed dry (but windy) with cloud clear of the fells until about 11.30 on Saturday, at which point the heavens opened.  Torrential rain alternated with short relatively dry spells for the rest of the day, as we took a long anti-clockwise loop around Helvellyn.  Simeon and Alan, though supposedly on an easier course, took a remarkably similar route – I think the planner got it slightly wrong, as there was a 30% dropout rate on that course!

The overnight camp was near Dockray, only about 5km as the crow flies from where we started.  Luckily we had some evening sunshine in between the rain, so our soaked clothes had a chance to dry out.  But on Sunday, it was raining from the word go, so the dry clothes soon became soaked again.  The rain was lighter, but constant, and low cloud made for some interesting navigation, but the course was shorter and it wasn't long before we were on the final knee-wrecking descent, avoiding falling bodies slipping on the wet grass as we went.

A really enjoyable weekend, in a thoroughly miserable sort of way, and both YAC teams managed to finish roughly half way down the field in their respective classes.

No photos from me, I didn't bother taking a camera due to the weather, but further details (and some pictures soon) are on the Saunders website at  http://www.slmm.org.uk/