Contrasting styles and facial expresion on the crux of Tody's Wall.
The nice weather arrived in force this weekend so Karl, Catherine and myself decided we must take advantage. The location, Froggatt, a lovely gritstone edge set above a woodland hill side in the heart of the Peak District. The first route, Allen’s Slab (S 4a), a classic traverse on what look like chipped holds for your feet. The gear is a little spread out but its there when you need it. I’ve done this route a few times, and for some reason I always end up topping out using Trapeze Direct! Next was one on my tick list, Chequers Buttress (HVS 5a), a three start route and one also has the honour of being on Peri’s Grudgematch Ticklist.
Catherine employing her unusual style on the block below the crux of Tody's Wall
I can see why, the initial traverse went well, but only after a few failed attempts to get off the platform at the top of the ramp. The move up onto the arete required more thought and I had to rest a while while that took place. Thanks to Karl for the very patient belaying. I finally finished the route, Karl and Catherine both completed the route in fine style, the later employing her usual unusual technique. This is a lovely route, with great gear, but quite intimidating in parts. By this time (1:30) Justine and Gav had arrived, which is understandable given they only live five minutes down the road. Onto Karl’s lead, Sickle Buttress (S 4a), again another nice route up a fairly thin crack line, followed by a traverse and a nice arete with a little exposure. In the meantime Gav and Justine went onto the Joe Brown route, Broken Crack (VS/HVS 5a, depending on the guide), what do you expect from Joe Brown, steep hand jamming fun with a committing layback to get you off the ground. Some old school tactics from Gav require to place the first wire (threading two nuts together for a longer reach) protected the layback for his lead. Gave then patiently belayed the rest of the group on this route, it really is a hand jamming brute of a crack. Unless you’re Catherine that is, who lay backed/floated up most of the route. Not being content with just one successful attempt Justine opted for a second round with Brocken Crack whilst the rest of us went looking for the next route.
Going through the moves on Straplombante
We opted for Heather and Tody’s wall. Catherine had some practice leading on Heather Wall, Gave lead Tody’s Wall. With the rest of us following on second. The variety of climbing on this route is unbelievable, delicate moves onto a block, rock over onto the slab, then a nice slab followed by a superb hand jamming crack. Who could ask for more, check out the pics for alternative methods of attacking this route. Once again, Catherine finds a novel method forgetting through the crux, which doesn’t appear to use either hand or foot holds. I think she may have some gecko DNA. The last route of the day was lead by Gav, the acrobatic Straplombante (E1 5b), this is only short but very very fun, swinging from one hold to the next, and a very committing swing to get the final hold on the route. I don’t think I’ve ever climbed such a fun route before. Then is was time for home, we made it to the Grouse Inn just in time to order food. A cracking day at Froggatt…….. Next time Valkyrie, you’re on my list….. If anyone wants to see the other pictures from the day then have a look here: Froggatt Pictures
