Posts Tagged ‘brimham’

busy buzzing brimham

Wednesday, June 10th, 2009

A good turn out braved the forecast and physical evidence and made to to Brimham last night. Peri, Donal,Clare, Luke and I arrived just as Crofty (Jim) was leaving after hosting an antipodean raiding party. Simon & Carmen arrived soon and we were later to find Guido and a few other YorkClimbers about.

Hobbling from the LAMM, Simon, Carmen and I were after a gentle session so Peri and Donal were led to Bilberry Grove [HS] (it's a groove with bilberries in it!) and Clare was to lead Luke up Castle Corner [D] while I hovered about talking through belay set-up. We headed off to Black Tower as S&C had finished and found Guido and crew bouldering some tough routes on Kangeroo Wall. Clare made a fine lead of NW Arete [VD] which is an ok route with ok gear, poor description and a very entertaining ab descent.

We then hobbled over to, and I led, a midgy Lancet Crack [VS] a short powerful well protected climb with a very interesting descent – by the end of which it was time to leave. We now met Gordon T and Dave D who had shunned all this new fangled stuff and gone to Cracked Buttress to find old friends.

In the car park we met S&C back from exploring various short esoterica [VDs] and Yorkies John Byne and Pete Crosby who had heard but not seen Peri …. speaking of which it was now 10.25 and the warden was locking up so we drove the car out and waited. Peri and Donal had managed Maloja [VS], Acme End [VS] and Cubic Corner [HS] since their start – pretty good evening.

Quick pint in New Inn and I fell asleep as a defence mechanism on the journey home.

Cubic Block Party

Thursday, May 14th, 2009

In defiance of common sense, me, Debbie W, Helen and Dave P looked out at the rain yesterday evening, eyeballed the met office rainfall radar and decided to head out to Brimham anyway. The narrow band of rain passed quickly and the crag was dry when we arrived. My main target for the evening was to get Debbie some more outdoor experience and impress upon her that gritstone is the very finest of rock types.

Not being sure how long the rain would hold off, we plonked ourselves on Cubic Block. Dave and Helen headed up Heather Wall while me and Debbie went up Great Slab. I offered Dave a lower off Cubic Block to save him the nasty step off, which he declined – I suspect he regretted the decision when he saw the step but he didn't use any bad language. After this team Helen/Dave did Great Slab and Cubic Corner while I did a recce on Thin Line, a slabby HVS I've been fancying my chances on (one reason being you can easily bail to the arete). Got 2/3 of the way up but then couldn't see if there was any more gear, so bail I did. Moving up the arete I could see there was actually a place to get gear, so that's now a target for next time I'm at Brimham.

By this time it had somehow got to 9.00, gloom was gathering early and little wet drops were appearing on the rock, Helen was muttering about a pint of beer, so we skedaddled.

more brimham sunshine

Wednesday, April 22nd, 2009

Simon Carmen Gordon Dave D me and Clare Usher all headed off to Brimham.  Spotted Gordon and Dave on the way in half way up Lovers Leap Chimney. Me and Clare headed for Pig Traverse which was good fun as always, however getting over there ate up time so after that we had just enough time left to run up Cracked Corner on the way back to the car.  Meanwhile Simon and Carmen, being iconoclasts as usual, had headed over towards Kangeroo Wall to do Bilberry Groove then followed up with a couple of routes on Turtle Rock and Dancing Bear. Felt great to be out on sunny grit again!

brimham sunshine

Wednesday, April 22nd, 2009

Donal and I made a (I'd like to say quick dash, but it took us ages to get there) trip to Brimham in the sunshine for our first outdoor grit experience tonight. Headed for a very dry and quiet Fag Slab and did the 4 easy classics in great conditions. Back to the car for 8.30 and still light.

roll on summer 🙂

Team Magenta do Brimham

Saturday, January 10th, 2009

Team Captain PeriWith the weekend plans in tatters due to high winds up north a last minute mail/text had ‘Team Magenta’ homing in on Jim’s house early Saturday morning. Unfortunately Jim had not checked his emails or phone & was still in bed when we arrived. Luckily the kids got him up & he quickly arranged his schedule to fit in a bouldering session.

The venue was set as Brimham, team captain Peri had been there the week before & reported it to be in good nick so off we went arriving about 10.00 we had the place to ourselves but later in the day more boulderers arrived including a LMC team.

Cabin boy Jim

First area visited was Small Roof, we then moved onto Cubic block, Acme Wall, Trackside Boulder & Lovers leap.
The day was very cold but the team were well armed with food & plenty of hot drinks, one important point is that the Café did not open all day so it,s best not to rely on it for supplies.

Seaman Tuze

The ground remained frosty all day but mid afternoon the wind picked up & the temps dropped significantly so we decided it was time to go.

Captain Kirk

Loads of problems done & some noticeable failures on very easy problems!!!!!

Corporal Clot

Today ‘Team Magenta’ consisted of Peri (captain), Jim, Tuze, Kirk & Guido despite visiting a local venue we all managed to find new problems we had not attempted before.

The best day of the week

Monday, July 14th, 2008


late on saturday the relentless rain relented and the forecast for sunday was good. The text summons came round – Cefyn, Peri (yac) Dave Roman and Andy(not yac) were all up for a day at Brimham. Sunday came and so did the sun! loads of it! We hit brimham at the crack of 10.45 and kicked off on Rough Wall(VS 5a ***), which finally allowed me to lead it cleanly. After ritual yelps and whoops from me at the top (this thing has spat me off more times than I'v had packed lunches) Roman arrived and led the thing coolly onsight. Pshaw.

Next Cefyn led Square Root(HS 4b) as he wanted to try out his shiny new tricams in the little pockets. He was very pleased with them and Roman thought it best not to mention that the bottom one had popped until he topped out. Andy led Cubic Corner then we all headed for Cleft Buttress where Roman led Lancet Crack (VS 5a), while me and Cefyn headed over to Cracked Buttress. I decided to try a lead on Parallel Cracks (VS 4c), which went all very smoothly till I decided to try for the left exit with the hidden hold. Ah, problem. Couldnt find the hidden hold. remembered its a long way back, had no idea where. Chickened out and teetered precariously to the right hand exit – ah, no big cams left, they are all on the left side. Major wibbling set in, I managed to pop in a dodgy hex and decided to just hurl myself at the top, leaving the other hexes dangling, a decision i was later to regret. After an undignified but clean top out we discovered that one of the unused hexes had slipped and wedged itself securely and an hour long gear epic ensued. Eventually I decided to bring in Dave, the King of Gear Recovery, so went back to Cleft Buttress – what were they still doing there? – where I found him and Roman busy having an Overcammed Friend Recovery Epic.

So. To cut a long story short, dave and Roman had bets for beers on who could get both sets of gear Dave starting the traverse on Lithosout and eventually all was recovered, Andy led Right Hand Crack (VS 4b) which he has wanted to lead for ages , dave led Duggies Dilemma (VS 4c, totally unprotectable) and then dave me and cefyn (Roman and Andy had left for family responsibilities) headed to Lithos (HVS 5b) at the back of the Pig Traverse area. Dave made a tremendous start on the lead but ran into difficulties just below the top, the move was very tenuous, the gear was dodgy and coming off would result in a huge pendulum smack into the corner with no helmet on. So he wisely accepted a sling from above as insurance – better to blow the onsight than make a sticky mess on the rocks – and then topped out. Me and Cef followed him up, and all I can say is, it was a fine and bold lead even if not completed cleanly , the crux move was pure evil.

Missions all completed, it was now 8.30 pm, we had been climbing in warm sunshine for 9 hours solid and had ticked lots of ticks, so we retired to the car park for warm beers from the back of my car and went home. It was the best day of the week!


Wednesday, April 30th, 2008

Typically, after glorious sunny weather for most of the day, the heavens opened at about 4 and it rained/hailed/thundered on and off for the following hour.  A few foolhardy souls (Simon, Carmen, David D, Peri, David K and Gordon) ventured forth regardless and were rewarded by a dry (though cold) evening climbing on remarkably non-slimy rock.

Routes climbed included Hawk Traverse (a rather fine 22m HS), Castle Corner (a nice though short-lived Diff), Turtle Rocks Chimney (VDiff, the exception to the 'non-slimy' generalisation), plus the old standards of Cracked Corner and Lovers Leap Chimney.

Ornithological note – there's an attempt at a nest on the first chockstone of Righthand Crack, constructed by an enterprising but foolhardy bird of unknown origin.