We had a very good turnout for the Langdale meet, managing to get 15 people into 13 bed spaces. (Not by being overly friendly, but because conveniently, we had two people staying just the Friday night and two staying just Saturday#). It was a good mix of old stalwarts and newer members, participating in the usual variety of outdoor (and indoor) activities.
Saturday dawned with unpromising damp weather, so there were no Alpine starts. Rob, with assistance from Dave, kindly offered to take the less experienced climbers to Scout crag to practise multi-pitch for Rob’s MIA logbook. The crag was seeping and soaking, so they spent a while looking at gear placements and setting up belays in various ways until eventually the cloud lifted and the sun came out. Splitting into two groups, Dave took Justine and Mike up Route 1(VD) and Rob lead Dee and Catherine up Route 2(S). This was their first experience of multi-pitch so it was as much about the process as about the climbing, though both routes had their merit. The sun then came out to play properly and they swapped routes. Some great climbing in a very convenient location made this a good little crag but there wasn’t much else to do (plans to go to White Ghyll were scuppered by the weather).
Justine on Route 1, Scout Crag
Given the damp start, Ann, Peter, Tom and Donal chose to go biking, with a long and hilly ride between Ambleside and Kentmere (and back again). Some lengthy climbs were rewarded by several loose and rocky descents, which they all got down one way or another without incident. However, Tom came off his bike on a highly technical section of tarmac and skinned his thigh. On returning to the hut after exploring the ridges north of Grasmere with Karen, Andrew was keen to put his newly acquired first aid skills into practice on Tom’s leg – despite Tom’s concern over his ‘hands on’ approach. The final climbing party, Paul and Jamie, returned just in time for the usual epic dining experience, having abandoned their jammed ropes after abseiling from Gimmer in the dark.##
Sunday dawned brilliantly, with most people choosing activities to fit in with their car teams. Dave, Rob and Justine headed up to Gimmer, after a false start! Spotting Jamie and Paul in their t-shirts retrieving their ropes, they scampered under the main buttress and into the dark side. Rob had a hankering for The Crack (VS 4b,4c,4c ***) which although it was the only route on the crag in the shade, he thought might be dry and warm enough. It turned out to be warm enough with a few layers on, but a few bits of the route proved to be very wet and slimey. A wild traverse on wet holds ended the first damp pitch, the second had a tough move in the sun and the third followed the obvious crack past a small overhang and into the sun again. Real variety and great gear make this a safe route but Rob recommends a late start in summer to get some sun and dryness.
Dave D on last pitch of The Crack, Gimmer
Meanwhile, Ann, Peter, Alan, Catherine and Dee set off for a fairly random walk and scramble. After a contrived start in the lower sections of Dungeon Gyll, they soon escaped to the path on the east side, to find better scrambling on Thorn Crag (grade 1/2*). This was a short but very good little scramble, finishing above the upper section of the gyll. They then headed over to Harrison Stickle for the excellent South West Face (grade 2**). After a short but steep start, the route heads up a lovely clean slab with good holds, before a series of rock steps deposit you on the very summit.
Harrison Stickle
In all, an excellent, enjoyable weekend and hopefully a good and memorable introduction to YAC for the new members.
# Rob has termed this ‘hot-bedding’, but probably best not to list this on our website as a club activity.
## Simon and Carmen beware – They will soon knock you off your perch as YAC’s nocturnal climbing gurus.