Alan Walmsley and I met up at Castle Rock of Triermain (near Keswick) on Friday at 6 and after much indecsion climbed Harlots Face (E1 5b) Alan leading the steep, crux , middle pitch and i led the start and end (4b/c, 4a ish but not great protection) We ended the night by soling a great VDiff (Yew Tree Climb I think) in the gorgeous orange light as the sun started to set and headed to Borrowdale to camp at Stonethwaite with midges.
Sat in sunshine and blue skies made an early start at Sergeants Crag Slabs, a great venue- had the crag to ourselves most of the day . Alan start on the classic crack line Lakeland Cragsman (HVS) I did Eliminator then Al led Aphasia – E2 – apparently the best slab in the lakes, then abbed down and stripped the route and I led it, no really hard moves and pretty good but well hidden gear (med wires mostly) but feels quite spacing after the bulge. Pretty wasted afterwards mentally it was taxing for me as my third trad lead of the year.
AW did T2 (HVS) another good line and I ended on Quciksilver E1, – more problems on this than the E2- couldn't suss the crux move, must have tried 6 or 8 times. Arranged excellent wires and went for it., and back again. Eventually i worked out a way to get my leg onto the bulge and we were off – next it feels bold, but is well protected and easy when eventually on the final slab.
What a top day at a great crag – great for anyone in the VS..E2 range (the HVSs are very amenable).
Pasta and Pints and midges !
Sunday was overcast and both of us were tried, we made our way to Goat Crag near Grange, where Alan pulled out a fine lead on Prying Mantis P1. I followed in a spitting shower. We bailed at the first belay due to weather/fatigue/wussy-ness.
What a great weekend, bloody tiring though!