Following in Peri's footsteps, Pete and I had a weeks break in the south west last week.
Leaving Pete's place we headed (via Morrsions) for Avon Gorge and Malbogies (HVS 5a, Hard Rock Tick). Remembering our south west trip of two years previous, we took containers and grabbed a load of blackberries that would nearly last the whole week (tad furry and mushy). Two other teams on a sunny sat on a whole cliff ? Maybe it's the polish and slightly odd rock and awkward gear ?
Malbogies (a Bonnington route from way back when) follows a groove for pitch, then over an overhang before getting back in the groove. Generally well protected but hard to fathom crux moves low down, lead to a great belay stance. The overhang is just above and talk of a jug was mysterious – it was desperate – I even thought I could be off line (unlikely given the amount of chalk) BETA alert -it's a jug, it's huge, it's a bloody long blind reach, it's a relieve!
From there route finishing through loose-ish unprotected rubbish is awkward but fun. Great views from the top (local youth relieving himself in the bushes!). On the Long drive down toward Baggy – we decided to call in at the Hard Rock Festival and see what was happening. We got a beer, food and a place to put our tent up and a few bands to watch – result.
Baggy was next day – breakfast in the car park with the surfers, then wander along to the point. Neither of us had climbed there before but I'd been there in the rain. We headed for the slabs of Lost Horizons (VS 5a) and were quickly in place – meeting John who I met on 'Dream…' a few weeks back. Lost Horizons is a great crack line, well protected but awkward climbing. Shangri-La that Pete did was the opposite S 4a, easy climbing not so much gear – or Pete hadn't bothered. At High tide we abbed into the appealing line of Scrattling Crack (VD) a real fun romp – recommended. Saving the best for last we did Kinky Boots with its nuts start- falling across the zawn is easy – summoning the courage less so. With a few spots of rain I did the whole thing in one pitch, not wise cos of rope drag.
We then visited some family friends and got our own house to stay in (beds and shower and cookers) and beer. Next day was Wreckers Slab – a right adventure and highly recommended. Easy climbing, great location, rock is ok (nowhere near as loose as I feared/expected), gear is ok.
We also did this with John (was he following us? ) and had a good natter to the farmers wife (you park at a farm) who was dead chatty and lovely. After a cuppa we went along the coast and visited Vicarage Cliff (beautiful place, easy grades, fun place) and Lower Sharp Nose (long walk in) and took pix as tide was wrong.
After another night in our comfy house (beer and food and good chats) we were on our way for Ilfracombe and the Lundy Ferry arriving in plenty of time. Parking is easy, the staff friendly – but the boat fills up quick so yo may not get an on-deck seat if you dally. We'd been advised to pack climbing gear in carry on luggage and go climbing on arrival – which we duly did. Feeling a bit queasy we opted for a longish walk – and to get familiar with the place. We approached the slide and there was only on party on it near the top so – we just went for it – and much fun it is, reminded me of Pedriza slabs. We tried to find and do Seal Slab but tide was high so we did a version – but its all about Diff on that slab!
Next day we took my brand new 100m ab rope and threw it off a cliff into the abyss – hoping to find American Beauty (HVS 5a ***) at the bottom. On the way down the seals revealed the name of anoethr route as they called out "Woooooooooo" – Pete wondered what I was on about. The first 4c pitch is awkward but there are many lines possible – maybe I chose poorly. The second pitch (5a) is great and long and great, varied and great, interesting and great, wandering and pretty darn good. The third is juggy and short. The winds picked up and a few spots of rain we headed back to the campsite, where some magic tents had arrived – must be magic as they disappeared overnight in the gales.
In the morning the gales continued so we headed for the 
quieter east cost (far fewer cliffs) and did Gannet Front HVS 5a **. The first pitch (with puking fulmar) is not so great but does start from the sea and comes with appreciative audience. The second pitch is wacky out there climbing on big holds with good gear. We ticked a couple of routes on Knight Templar Rock (inland buttresses) before heading home to the Marisco Tavern for grub.
Morning brought rain but less wind. We sheltered in the lighthouse for about an hour but the afternoon was brighter but still blowy. Flying Buttress area was our target and we did Diamond Solitaire (VS 4c **) great route in unlikely position. The sea was coming in quite force-fully by now so we headed back for our last supper.
Intending in climbing before getting the ferry we were up early and had packed up in time. Small showers passed through so we wanting to avoid an epi and catch the boat we went for a walk to the top of the island (about 2.5 miles) and back enjoying our last views.
The return boat journey was easy, the sun even came out and burnt my nose as we wasted time waiting for another boat to leave the dock. An uneventful trip back but a great curry at Petes, completed the week trip.
Lundy is fantastic, tons of great climbing at all grades but a bit adventurous as well. It's not difficult to arrange if you camp (10 quid a night) especially later in Aug and Sept. The camping Barn (posh club hut) is only few quid more (13 pppn if full) and would make a great place but we'll need to book a long way in advance and get 14 people
tons of pictures at
http://www.psych.york.ac.uk/~rob/pix/climbing/uk/southwest/devon+lundy-09/
Malbogies is a good effort, I have only done one route on Avon main wall -Krapps last tape, despite being only E1 it scared me s**tless, I just looked on UKC & I see it's down as E3 5b now.
They take the fun out of everything!!
so did the puking fulmar get ya?
nope I recoiked just enough. Pete said it had had a really good puke earlier. think it was running out of ammo
so in addition to the role of Avalanche Sheep there is also the Fulmar Decoy – whose job is to taunt the fulmar into exhausting its ammo. Perhaps a little rubber climber on a long pole should be standard sea cliff equipment – to be poked up ahead of the leader whenever in doubt.