Will and I made another attempt to get a day's climbing but ended up leaving after lunch. Will had a hankering for Chevin Buttress *** VS 4c and the club was due at Eastby – though most usual players were unavailable (or so I stupidly thought).
Chevin was in fine form, being dry (it rained on the A59) and rosy red not green, and empty save for a few walkers. No dramas saw Will lace up CB and I ticked Leeches Wall * VS 4b/c, a nice but bold route just to the left. The weather was still ok, and the forecast said clearing from the west, so we thought Eastby would be good, I haven't been for about 8 years and Will never.
Quick trip via Ilkley as we discussed the possibility of a multi crag *** VS 4c link up, Almscliff, Caley (no *** VSs), Chevin, Ilkley, Eastby perhaps by bike (for Tom anyhow) and we arrived under dark black clouds but all alone. We quickly got on Eastby Buttress ***VD best VD on grit according to rockfax. Whilst belaying I watched the rain further up the valley approach slowly. Looked like Settle was getting a soaking. With the impending doom I ticked Pillar Rib **VS 4c and we had about 2 spots of rain, lovely route. With the rain still holding off somehow we went a little further along the crag, leaving a pair of youngsters to have some fun.
Will faffed on Nose Climb S 4a (* or *** !) but cruised it eventually and I had a look at the blank slab of Index Variation **VS 4c/5a. Interesting route finding as there are many ways of pulling onto the slab, I chose an easy version in keeping with the grade (further left looks about (5b/c). The break swallows cams (0.5,1,2) and then it's a lonely but lovely balance up the scoop to good wires. Rockfax has the route going straight up the wall, but that's daft at the grade and my old guide said go right, so I did.
Getting a bit dark now (near enough 9) we left the other pair having an 'adventure' and headed back.
Two great crags – loads of stuff at Eastby but quite bold in places – good for slab practice!
Talking of link-ups, I keep meaning to try one taking in Halton Heights, Eastby, Embsay, Deer Gallows, Crookrise, Rylstone, and Rolling Gate…
Please say you didn't get a picture of me gibbering on Nose Climb. If anyone hasn't done Chevin Buttress, get it ticked. It's bloomin marvelous.
The term the FRCC use is enchainments & there is recommended list on their site.
I think moorland enchainments are ideal for crisp cold winter days, coats off, do a quick route, coats on, move on, get warmed up.
Of course its ideal training for the winter routes when the snow arrives.
We did a round of Embsay Moor one December doing a route at Crookrise, Rylstone & Rolling Gate.
Link to blog
http://yorkclimbers.com/profiles/blogs/barden-moortour-of-the-crags
There are some classic days out & we will be putting more of these type of event on later this year if anyone is interested.
hmm why wasnt I here? oh, yes, was climbing on sun baked limestone in Portland all week! stayed in old lighthouse – way cool.
I forgot, Air Scar as well. The superhuman could then continue over Simon's Seat, Lord's Seat, and North Nab…