"Scully: Its me – Mulder. We've got to go to Yorkshire.
Yorksheer? Isnt that in Yoorp??
It is, Scully. Theres been an unexplained weather phenomenon. The sky turned blue on sunday and a big round glowing object was seen by reliable witnesses!"
In one of those moments of wild optimism/enthusiasm/stupidity I decided to join Guido and various YMC folks on Sunday, meeting at stupid o'clock. Stupid o'clock dawned and my motivation plummeted. From what I could see in the half-light, the day was grey, damp and 'orrible. Blearily arrived at Guido's to meet Pete McDonald, Katie, Dave Something and Tuze, and discussed weather tactics. Despite groans from people hoping for long routes, Slipstones looked a decent bet, so off we chugged, bouldering mats armed and ready.
And for once our Cunning Plan worked. The further north we headed the more the sky brightened and we reached Slipstones in glorious sunshine, exchanging fleeces and beanies for T shirts and shades as the day went on. A lot of the routes felt quite steep high and intimidating by comparison with Bridestones last week, and some of the landings were a mite pointy. But then again I' m not a Bold Boulderer – Guido and his buddies were happily shimmying up scarily high VS's and HVS's while I wussed around on easier stuff. But by the end of the day I'd actually managed to get up a short HVS (Escalator Variant, HVS 5b) with a low crux and decent landing, and felt well chuffed. Guido's list of problems/short routes done by various people as below, by and large I dont remember who did what, but guess what, guys – mine were the easier ones!
Escalator Variant Hvs 5b
Overhanging crack VD
Petch's Groove HS 4c
20ft Crack VD
Tranmire Crack Vs 5b
Tranmire Arete VD
Undercut flake S 4b
Problem Wall Hvs 5b
Agra RH Hvs 5b
Brush up Hvs 5b
Jug Handle Pull Up VD
Wall Centre Vs 4c
Happy Daze Vs 4c
Tiptoe Hvs 5a
Slanting Flake HS
Slanting Flake LH HVS 5b
Welcome Wall VS 4b
Stereo Android VS 4c
Stereo Right Hand S
Tommy's Dilemma VD
Gypsy Wham HD
Tea Party Slab VS 5a
Question of Balance VS 5c
Right Edge (II) VS 5b
I'm still confused by the dividing line between a short solo and a highball bouldering problem, mind. Any suggestions?
For it to be a bouldering route, you have to wear a beanie and have 6 spotters. A short solo would be no spotters and wearing a helmet and Ron Hills.
that leaves Guido hopelessly confusing – no helmet but a classic pair of ron hills. I, on the other hand, had a beanie so was bouldering till it got too hot, and then soloing. I must learn more of this strange climbing jargon.
Peri think you had a lucky escape, if you must keep instruments of torture in the car keep them out of site-don't let the witchmaster general se them.