Scugdale was last night's venue so naturally I dragged Will off to Beacon Scar – a crag in the woods close by. The plan was to nip up to the crag, tick the 3 star HVS and wander up to Scugdale to finish the evening off in the sunshine. So far so good, geared up after a slightly boggy approach I was soon in the niche – no sign of the wobbly block. Great cams protect what should be a superb exercise in controlled jamming. After testing the lower cams (unintentionally) and demonstrating some very poor technique and quite excellent swearing, I eventually fought my way to the top – more than a tad warm and sweaty.
It really is a fight, I'd love to see a jamming master (no not Bob Marley) demonstrate it. More trips to Almscliff for me to get some practice in. Will made a valiant and impressive effort on the lower section before declaring a tendency to fatigue and taking a rest or two.
Suitably pumped we headed back along the Cleveland Way to the car and followed an appalling driver down to Swainby at 18 mph eventually arriving at the crag just before 9. Simon, Carmen, Dave & Gordon were busy messing about with ropes. Will and I just set about the easier climbs solo.
A truly gorgeous sunset and warm evening with a light breeze was just the confidence builder I needed after receiving such a kicking at the hands of Gehenna (HVS 5a ***)
As a good jamming apprenticeship may I suggest repeated solos of Minion's way and then you can try Green prioress, giggling crack etc….to be prepared for your return match.
I soloed that one last week with John and Pete, needs a steady head.
"declaring a tendency to fatigue" slightly underdoes the language I was using 🙂