…we've spent all summer waiting for a day of hot sunny weather, then three come along at once.
Friday evening. After a last minute decision to throw the climbing kit in the car, and a quick escape from work, we headed for The Chevin, near Otley. A quick warm up on Central Route (Severe) turned out not to be so quick, as it was hard and intimidating, and the belay at the top was gradually being colonised by flying ants. But not to be put off, I continued with the route that was the main reason for being there, one which I've wanted to lead ever since I first read about it some 15 year ago – Chevin Buttress (VS). And it actually went rather well, less steep and with better holds than first appeared, and I was soon belaying in the middle of what had become a dense swarm of ants. Nice. A quick wander round the Quarry confirmed that there was nothing there that we wanted to climb, so we went home.
Saturday. Carmen has been planning for ages on leading either Frenesi or Dat Der, the two classic VSs at Peak Scar. So as the day was going to be a hot one, we took the opportunity to find some shade and get a tick for Carmen at the same time. A bit of dithering (surely not) about which route to do, and Carmen set off up Frenesi. 
And apart from a brief hesitation at the crux at the top, it all went quite smoothly. VS, and high in the grade according to the guidebook. After some more dithering, I decided to go for Shades of Grey, another starred VS nearby. After 2 attempts to work out where the route was supposed to go (the book being singularly unhelpful), I gave in and retreated onto Gone (HS) instead. The wedged blocks at the crux seem to be less securely wedged every time I climb the route, it's not going to take much for them to come out I think (so I managed to get past without pulling on them at all, just in case). After a quick ascent of Jonas (HVD) at the far left of the crag (I've never done this before as there are owls nesting there between about March and early July every year), we headed towards Carmen's annual ascent of Jordu. Which starts right next to Dat Der. Which was the other VS on Carmen's tick list. So that's what she did instead 🙂 The start was too much for me, though I've led it before, and after a few attempts I took the cheat's option by traversing in from the side.
Sunday. Yet more sun, so it was time for a visit to The Ravenstones, a north-facing crag in the Chew Valley. It's a half hour walk in, almost all downhill apart from the last 50m of steep up. A neglected crag, due to both its aspect and relatively long approach, it is home to well over 100 routes, mostly at amenable grades, though with a handful of test pieces in the high E grades. Despite the perfect weather, we only had to share the crag with 3 other pairs of climbers. A feature of the crag seems to be that the rock is pretty featureless, so the crack climbs have mostly good gear, and the slabs and aretes are very run out. We did a selection of each type, from the bold slab of Green Wall (HS), to the filthy-looking but actually fairly clean Nils Desperandum (S), via the classic Wedgewood Crack (VS) which incorporated a wild hand traverse, a bold arete, and a (thankfully easier than it looked) wide crack to finish. An excellent day, nicely shaded from the baking sun (except at the top), and with a light easterly breeze (mostly) keeping the midges at bay. All that remained was the walk out, which took rather longer than on the way in, with a pathless 200m climb over peat moorland, in the still-strong evening sun.
Tags: chevin, chew, oven, Peak Scar, ravenstones, shade, sun
well done carmen, all I'v ever done is seconded frenesi, and i still found it hard sustained and strenuous. Hope you made simon buy you a beer for it!
I think we were there when you seconded it – finishing off the Mulligan Mania traverse. Or at least if it wasn't you, it was someone who sounded very like you 😉
I have never done the Mulligan Mania traverse, so I dont think it was me! I am also pretty sure I was carrying a little leather handbag up the route (long story involving a party and having to borrow gear) which I suspect you would have remembered if you'd seen it
No, I mean that we were doing Mulligan Mania – which crosses Frenesi at the big ledge. And yes it was you cos I remember a handbag 🙂
guilty as charged then! Just wish I had succumbed to temptation and hung on the gear to apply lipstick half way up – it would have been worth it to see your faces.