With the sun setting depressingly early, this week we took probably the final chance for outdoor evening climbing this season. Possibly the closest crag to York is the famous Crimple Beck, a couple of miles east of Spofforth – a crag of two halves, the lower being (very) soft sandstone, the upper part crumbly-looking limestone (of the Whitestone Cliffe variety). Not the world's best crag (to say the least), but sunset was at 6.45, so needs must…
It actually turned out much better than expected. We spent a while messing about bouldering and soloing – I gibbered my way up Gorgonzola (VDiff) the classic of the crag, while Will worked on a girdle traverse of the main section of the crag – he almost finished, but ran out of time for the final link-up so will have to return to complete it (possibly an early season trip next Spring?)
I then set up a top-rope (leading is possible, but the solidity of any gear is normally so questionable as to add an adjectival grade or two). We climbed Fondue Face (HVS 4c), at least that's the grade for those who can just about reach the mid-height ledge at full stretch – the tall would find it 4a, Will and I could just about reach, and Carmen eventually managed to leave the ground by using very 'traditional' methods (standing on Will's shoulders). The second half was good fun, steep and juggy and unexpectedly solid, like a climbing wall only cheaper. Not having a guidebook we then inadvertently climbed a 'new' line to the left at the same sort of grade.
It was now getting dark, and muscles were pumped, so we went home.
A few more photos here.
Tags: cheese
Never been to Crimple Beck is it nearer than the Wetherby Crag.
Probably similar distance – it's about 3 miles east of Spofforth.
Will have to give Wetherby another go sometime, seeing as I work about 2 minutes away. Last time I went I did virtually nothing, there was too much risk of landing in dog poo 🙁