York Alpine Club Blog

C³, Pete B and I headed to a bunkhouse in Wales this weekend as Catherine can't make the trip next week to Deniolin. Weather gods were meant to be playing kind and they didn't disappoint despite the insistent rain on the drive over.

We made ourselves at home and after a relaxed start, watching the clouds over the Ogwen massive, decided to head for the ever reliable Tree-Mud-Rock. Stunned to find ourselves the only climbers in a sun drenched layby we set about One Step in the Clouds (VS 4c ***). The crag had many wet streaks but this route avoids them with just one damp corner to be negotiated. I chose the dryish but much more awkward corner to its left, well protected but at least 4c maybe 5a for a move. Pete and Catherine both agreed that it was the crux! Pete got the lovely slab pitch and we finished off along the picturesque hand traverse flake.

A quick abseil down a deserted Grim Wall area (50m ropes get you safely down in 1 – just) we did Hail Bebe (VD ***) which shares the start and finish (sort of). The middle pitch allowed Catherine a chance to practice her leading skills and she now has a good understanding of rope drag. Finishing as it got dark we opted for the walk down (when I could find it – oops) which is a tad tricky when buried under a foot of leaves and it's pretty dark.

Tea, hot shower, a big curry (with home made chutney) and a few beers saw us lightweights retire early-ish.

Sunday dawned beautifully and we opted to walk across the valley to the Atlantic Slabs in the sun. Of course by the time we arrived the clouds had put pay to the sun and our wet feet were chilled by the tiny snow patches. We ran up the delightful slab, easy climbing with better than expected gear but a bit spaced, the belay stance was a a bit cramped though. On top of the slab the wind had picked up and it was decidedly cold, the sun having dropped below the ridge line (it was only 1-ish but winter sun and all that) so we packed it in

Back at the bunkhouse we had a cup of tea and a tour of owner Gwyn's handiwork upstairs.

Great little weekend away and a nice place to stay when we can't get into the club huts (too warm with good kitchen and great shower – though no teapot!)

Pete's pix

This entry was posted on Monday, November 19th, 2012 at 5:57 pm and is filed under Climbing, Crags. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.