Curiosity dragged me out to Agden Rocher with Simon C, Carmen and Dave S.
As peak crags go its certainly different, tucked away in pretty oakwoods ten minutes from the road. The rock type is blocky sandstone rather than grit, of variable quality. Whilst it is true that most of the loose stuff is obvious, it tends to occur in bands part way up a route so there is not much you can do to about it other than mutter, grumble and take care. It is definately not a novice crag. However the majority is decent rock, with routes a bit longer than the average gritstone route – about 18 metres seemed to be normal. Tops do tend to be loose and rubbly – "crazy paving" was carmen's description at one point – but there are good belay stakes on most routes. Care needs to be taken not to brain your second though! And a pinch of salt applied to the grades…
The crag doesnt get a lot of visits – this is great if you like solitude but means routes can be earthy and vegetated. In fact one of the more interesting characteristics of the crag is the number of ancient and contorted oaks growing horizontally out of the cliff. One of these forms the crux of the crag's only two star VS – Oak Tree Walk. You climb up a wall to the tree, sling on to a good root, then climb to the top of the tree and teeter out on to a slender and bendy branch in order to move back on to thin holds on the wall. (this gets the rockfax "fluttery heart" symbol). It is possible to sling further up the tree, but the upper part is so hollow that I had no faith in it at all and after a long faff and numerous initial forays scarpered to a top rope with my tail between my legs. Apart from the blow to my pride, my main problem is now that I dont know if I backed off a rock climb or a tree climb ;-D.
Sandstone formations at Agden Rocher
Other routes done included:
Bianco (VS) carmen's lead
Bradfield Arete (S) simon's lead
Double declutch (VS 4c) daves lead
Numenorean (HVS) Dave's lead
Grey Wall (VS) simon's lead
Jericho Wall(VS) my lead
Martini (VS) simon's lead – a bold start marginally protected by micro cams
Scarred Climb (HS) carmen's lead
White Rose Flake (VS) my lead
Teams:
Simon C, Dave S
Peri, Carmen
Tags: faffing, lumberjacking, retreating