Posts Tagged ‘faffing’

Muir Cottage – Braemar

Tuesday, September 4th, 2012

Eight members made it the August Bank Holiday meet in Braemar. The forecast improved as time went on and the weather was not as bad as expected – apart from Monday.

Saturday morning saw some of the bikers up early tinkering with their bikes (Andrew) for what seemed like hours. Then Andrew and Peter drove for what seemed like (because it was) hours to dump a vehicle at Blair Atholl. Meanwhile Annie and Karen headed to the cafe – for a quick coffee and bite to eat. They needn't have rushed as the drivers/bikers did not return until 1pm. Then it was time for lunch of course. So after an early start at 2pm! they set off on their ride down Glen Tilt – again.

Meanwhile the walkers Richard and Dave D went off to bag Carn Bhac – in the rain. Dave D had been keen to tag on another Munro but fortunately for Richard the clag removed interest in this option.

Having done all the local Munros and with a big day planned for Sunday and dinner to finish cooking, Simon and I settled for a nearby Corbett (Sgor Mor) which could be done from the hut. We waited until it stopped raining before setting off – looking out for the bikers throughout our walk-in – little did we know they were still hours behind. It was a pretty walk with all the heather in bloom – we never normally see Scotland at this time of year due to a certain small insect. The cloud was down on the surrounding hills, but we remained cloud-free throughout. The descent off the hill was slow progress as we trudged through heather, down past the bee hives and back to the forest and river. As soon as we stopped to remove waterproofs we were surrounded by midges which encouraged a quick retreat back to the hut arriving shortly before 4pm! Arriving just behind us was Karen who had been out for a local cycle.

Around 8:30pm the bikers finally returned, slightly subdued, the ride having been harder work and less cyclable than they had remembered from last time. However, they soon perked up with curry and beer, followed by rhubarb crumble.

Sunday had the best forecast and Simon and I had big plans – so we left the hut before anyone else was up. We cycled in to Glen Slugain – me moaning somewhat as the track was worse than I had imagined (didn't help that it was first time on a bike since last year). We then went on a long walk over Ben Avon and Beinn a'Bhuird, made somewhat longer by taking in all the tops (Simon is slowly turning into Charles). It was a good day for it though with cloud-free tops and mainly blue skies. Cold wind throughout – which would have made standing around climbing unpleasant, so a good decision to go for the walking option.

The rest of the club headed for Derry lodge where they split– Andrew, Karen and Richard R went up Derry Cairngorm. Meanwhile, Annie, Pete and Dave D went up Beinn Mheadhoin, followed by Derry Cairngorm. Both groups had a mix of people on foot and bikes and so there was a bit of a wait at the cars afterwards.

Unsurprisingly Simon and I were back to the hut last – but at a reasonable time 8pm. 11hrs 15 mins for our cycle/walk. Midges were only an issue when we collected the bikes. It is amazing how it can go from no midges to being absolutely covered in midges in the space of 2 seconds! Thanks go to Dave D for shopping for the communal meal which Karen cooked whilst Dave D opted for a longer walk – so many thanks to Karen as well. Annie had remembered it was my birthday – so dessert was replaced with a large chocolate cake – many thanks to all.

Monday – rain, rain, rain. A good day for most to be heading home. A blistered toe and wet weather saw Dave D and Richard heading straight home, as did Pete. Andrew & Karen were heading up north to stay in a lighthouse. Forecast was for it to get wetter with gale force winds – so Annie, myself and Simon headed Ballater way. We went for a short walk to 'The Vat', a product of glacial erosion, and followed the river through woodland for a couple of miles before heading back through woods and moorland. The trees were festooned with lichen which was all very pretty. We stopped at a very nice cafe in Ballater for coffee and cake before heading back to the hut for tea and cake.

Tuesday morning – sunshine and showers and even more squirrels. Simon had been feeding the birds/squirrels over the weekend. We had only ever spotted 2 red squirrels at the same time but today there were three – chasing each other from the feeder, plus a woodpecker which went on the nuts whilst the squirrels out of the way. Not a bad breakfast view.

After tidying the hut – Simon and I headed south to Craig a Barns near Dunkeld. We didn't hold out much hope of climbing given the recent rain and strong cold winds. However, we arrived at the crag in the sunshine and sheltered from most of the wind. We were overdressed to start with! However, it gradually clouded over and winds increased – but we managed to get 2 single pitch routes and a two-pitch route in before the rains arrived. Simon retreated off his last route of the day as the heavens opened. Good little crag for a stop off on the drive back south as just off the A9 and with a 5 min walk in. Some of the routes suffer with drainage more than others – but not bad considering the persistent rain on Monday. Annie was last seen heading south possibly via a friend’s house in Edinburgh.

All in all in a good trip to a lovely hut. Certainly wouldn't have wanted to be camping!

Red squirrel movies – can be seen on following links

https://vimeo.com/48586652

https://vimeo.com/48449469

Photos from Carmen and Simon and David

Get off the fence!

Friday, July 9th, 2010

well i would have done if i could make the move.

Peri and I headed for a quick session at Almscliff, she had her eyes on black Wall and i've taken a fancy to few VSs nearby that i havent done. Peri offered me the first lead and in a reversal of roles, stood at the bottom offering no constructive advice but quite lot of laughing, heckling and abuse.

The move off the wall is reachy and technical on this VS 5b P2. I had got a good cam 1.5 in but making the move was hard. I had a few goes, then a few more, then took small fall, then tried another five or six times before going back to the original long reach approach and making it … just

So I thought it was all over and tried to go direct over teh bulge using the excellent flake – but that was way hard so I down climbed, tried again (twice) , down climbing each time and eventually scuttling off left before stepping back right onto the flake (as per description) From there a few slab steps leads to the top and Peri's go.

Funnily she stopped laughing and shortly started swearing and throwing tantrums and I had started laughing an hauling. I did wonder how she'd make the reach the way I did it. A bit of gear hauling followed by abandoning cam and she was at the top.

All that was left was for me to ab down get the cam and lead the retreat to the pub.

Fun evening but not very productive !

Agden Rocher – I'm a lumberjack (and I'm not ok)

Tuesday, August 18th, 2009

Curiosity dragged me out to Agden Rocher with Simon C, Carmen and Dave S.

As peak crags go its certainly different, tucked away in pretty oakwoods ten minutes from the road. The rock type is blocky sandstone rather than grit, of variable quality. Whilst it is true that most of the loose stuff is obvious, it tends to occur in bands part way up a route so there is not much you can do to about it other than mutter, grumble and take care. It is definately not a novice crag. However the majority is decent rock, with routes a bit longer than the average gritstone route – about 18 metres seemed to be normal. Tops do tend to be loose and rubbly – "crazy paving" was carmen's description at one point – but there are good belay stakes on most routes. Care needs to be taken not to brain your second though! And a pinch of salt applied to the grades…

The crag doesnt get a lot of visits – this is great if you like solitude but means routes can be earthy and vegetated. In fact one of the more interesting characteristics of the crag is the number of ancient and contorted oaks growing horizontally out of the cliff. One of these forms the crux of the crag's only two star VS – Oak Tree Walk. You climb up a wall to the tree, sling on to a good root, then climb to the top of the tree and teeter out on to a slender and bendy branch in order to move back on to thin holds on the wall. (this gets the rockfax "fluttery heart" symbol). It is possible to sling further up the tree, but the upper part is so hollow that I had no faith in it at all and after a long faff and numerous initial forays scarpered to a top rope with my tail between my legs. Apart from the blow to my pride, my main problem is now that I dont know if I backed off a rock climb or a tree climb ;-D.
Sandstone formations at Agden Rocher


Other routes done included:
Bianco (VS) carmen's lead
Bradfield Arete (S) simon's lead
Double declutch (VS 4c) daves lead
Numenorean (HVS) Dave's lead
Grey Wall (VS) simon's lead
Jericho Wall(VS) my lead
Martini (VS) simon's lead – a bold start marginally protected by micro cams
Scarred Climb (HS) carmen's lead
White Rose Flake (VS) my lead

Teams:
Simon C, Dave S
Peri, Carmen

Dries quickly after rain

Tuesday, August 19th, 2008

Dave leading Central Tower (VD)…and is less green than the other crags hereabouts.

So says Western Grit about Dovestones Edge in the Chew Valley, west of Holmfirth.  And thus an intrepid band of 4 (David, Peri, Carmen, and me) set off, after a night of torrential rain, in search of the forecast dry weather near Manchester.  Yes, that's right, dry weather near Manchester.

The rain started just as we arrived at the car park, but after sitting in the car for 10 minutes it died down so we started the stroll up to the crag.  A relaxing 30 minute yomp straight uphill (or so it seemed) led to the crag, where we headed for our intended first route of the day – Answer Crack, the best VDiff in the Peak.  It took a bit of searching, but eventually we found it, hidden under a thick layer of dripping green slime.

Moving swiftly on, we opted instead for a drier-looking area to the left, where I chose Swan Crack (HVD) while David went for Central Tower (VD).  Both looked straightforward from the ground, but turned out to involve tenuous smearing and jamming up slippery wet lichen, followed by a descent down a small stream that was nearly as traumatic.

Carmen in the sun on Ylnosd Rib (VD)Sensing that the better part of valour was in fact cowardice, we decided to run away in search of drier things – specifically, Rob's Rocks, a couple of miles away across the moors, which had the advantage of being south facing and hence, hopefully, cleaner.  After a couple of false turns we found the crag and scrambled to the bottom – I went down the normal descent, while the others found a variety of green dirty alternatives, with Peri winning the gold medal for filthiest pair of trousers.

Once again, the rain arrived shortly after we did, but this time it was light and short-lived, and there was no further excuse not to climb (other than the usual general incompetence of course).  Rob's Rocks is the beginners' crag par excellence– hardly anything above VS, with the majority of the 15 or so routes in the Diff-VDiff range.

Peri shortly before wimping outHighlights of the rest of the day included Dave taking a fall from Nameless One (VS 4b), but struggling manfully on for a while before wimping out pathetically and making way for Peri to wimp out as well.  I still remembered the route from my previous visit when I led it, and so bravely didn't even bother trying – once bitten and all that.  Carmen hid round the corner.

Peri had an extended faff on Snow Crack (Severe) – only 6 metres, but a bit of a fight, and with a choice of bold laybacking or safer arm-barring.  Later on I led the same route, with just as much of a fight, and an even longer faff.  The art of the sandbag is not dead!  Meanwhile, Carmen led all sorts of things, the best probably being Ylnosd Rib (VDiff), perhaps wisely choosing the cop-out right hand start instead of the normal squirm up a stupidly narrow chimney.

They don't teach you that at the climbing wall...Most amusing route of the day though was Cave Crack (HS 4c), which climbs out of the back of the eponymous cave, and involved various gymnastics to get started, with weird back-and-head moves to gain the upper crack.  Great fun, but for some reason Carmen declined to follow…

We eventually left the crag at about 8, a surprisingly long day given that we almost gave in and drove home after a single slimy route.  Occasionally blind optimism gives results!

More photos can be found here.