Peri and I headed down south as the forecast said it would stay better there.
Neither of us were full of gung-ho so we had a fairly chilled day at the crag enjoying the hot sunshine and surprising lack of crowds. Peri decided on Allen's Slab (surely wrong crag!) as her warm up but there was a queue so we did Congestion Crack a short HS 4b over to the left. Then the the aforementioned slab which was as nice as ever complete with self extracting gear. According to my guide i hadn't done recess crack direct (not that my guidebook is accurate) so we did that while there.
Next we wandered left about 20m and I soloed the Vdiff of Sickle butress, now a S but not that hard apart from one move at 2m. Peri had spied Broken crack (HVS or VS you choose) that she thought looked easy – i thought it looked steep at the top, but i wasnt going to let that spoil my fun. Refusing the suggested layback she udged her way up the lower section using all the large cams she had taken, and got established higher up. With a small but good hex she attacked the final crack, a few times it must be said, then with an almighty effort she was up, and off and flying. A couple more attempts and rests and eventually susssed out the one awkward move and easily got past her high point and topped out. I followed, laybacking the bottom (would be bold!) until some opposing nuts
Peri had accidentally placed. A good 5 mins of effort eventually i removed them all and finished the route.
Sickle Buttress Direct just next door is a nice VS 4c with a bold feeling but protected top move, over all nice climbing. I then led Green Gut – something I'd seconded a few times but can't recall ever leading and Peri followed then soloed after spying the moves on the adjacent crack for next time she is fresh.
We headed back to the car to look for Tegness Pinnacle, but instead had a nice walk in the woods! God knows where it is – so we went for a pint instead.
It took us about an hour to find Tegness Pinnacle when we went there! The path is obvious, but not in the summer (due to undergrowth), or the autumn (fallen leaves), or the winter (snow). It (the path) is also not in the place described in Rockfax. We eventually found the pinnacle by walking past it to the other quarry and following the description in the old Froggatt guide that took us back to the right place.