Last week we found another obscure crag for the collection, a good one when the nights are drawing in. The Went Valley Craglets are hidden away in the back of the Yorkshire Limestone guide, and are a few miles south of the A1/M62 junction, only 45 minutes' drive from York. There are a few small crags dotted around, but only one has any recorded routes – Long Crag. It's in a very scenic location, lots of farmland and a nice wooded valley. Parking is in a nature reserve car-park, though on the day we went it was partly filled with a burnt-out car courtesy of the local joy riders!
It's very steep (vertical to overhanging), with little in the way of protection – so the guidebook advises soloing or top-roping. Since everything is VS or above and up to 13m high, soloing was not an option for us! Unfortunately, the belay bolts/stakes that used to be at the top have all been removed – but with the help of 2 ropes, we managed to set up good anchors on fence posts and a tree on either side of the crag. The descent down the near end of the crag crosses a farmer's fields (no trespassing), but the far end is easily accessed down a steep wooded slope.
We managed 3 routes. We started with Main Overhang Left-Hand, HVS 5a, but actually the easiest we did. Then Original Route (VS 4c *), the 'classic of the crag'. Very overhanging, but with big bucket holds, a bit like a climbing wall. Finally, Problem Wall (VS 5a), which gave us a few problems! The start is supposed to be the crux, but it finishes over a roof, and it was this that caused us most trouble. I went first, and avoided the issue by turning it on the right. Then Carmen, who needed a short rest ion the rope, but then despatched it with relative ease. Will showed how it should be done, with a lengthy dogging session involving much swearing before an eventual retreat to my cop-out variation. And finally, I gave the roof another go – a couple of rests needed, and a bit of a tight rope, but got there in the end – the holds are there, it's just a question of finding them before your strength gives out!
Some more photos here.
Definitely worth a look for a top roping session to give the arms a work out. I did it in less than 45 minutes from the uni side of town so it can definitely be done as short evening venue. Real shame they chopped the belay bolts as it's a perfect place for top roping in a nice setting.
The car park can be seen just west of the "A" here:
http://tinyurl.com/22kp8lx
Contrary to what google maps may tell you, Leys Lane to the west of here is nothing more than a dirt track, the approach is from New Road.