Ilkley Quarry in Sunshine Shock

June 18th, 2008 by Simon C

Will on Josephine SuperdirectYes, despite the dark grey clouds threatening rain for most of the day, not only did we stay dry, but we were also treated to some evening sunshine.  Sometimes it pays to be optimistic!

I was climbing well for once, and onsighted two VSs, Blucher and Walewska.  The difficulties on Blucher were short and well protected, it would make a good first VS;  the difficulties on Walewska were not so short!  This was followed by Demolition Derby (HS 4a) which climbs what is left of Wellington Chimney (destroyed by the local council a few years ago in a misguided attempt to remove loose rock).  This has the potential to be a reasonable route, if it weren't for the deep layer of pigeon poo on all the ledges, which made the whole experience deeply unpleasant!

Other highlights of the evening included a fine onsight lead of Josephine Superdirect (MVS 4b) by Will;  and Peri, er, well Peri was there too…

One Response to “Ilkley Quarry in Sunshine Shock”

  1. pebbles says:

    here are my exploits for the evening.
    1) Second Will up JosephineSuperdirect (now gets VS 4b). well done will, nicely done. Award Will extra points for bravery in the face of enraged pigeon onslaught.
    2) decide to lead Old Crack (now also gets VS 4b) . get 2-3 metres up initial crack, which is so polished I can see will attempting to do his hair in the reflections. Place two bits of gear, give up in disgust and retreat.
    3) to S Crack (VS 4c) which I have for some reason decided will be better despite the fact I have never onsighted VS 4c before.
    4) and did not do so this time either. Got to halfway ledge, chickened out of next bit after much wibbling and traversed back to Old Crack to finish minus dignity and pride.
    5)gratefully accept will's suggestion of seconding him up Flake Crack (HS 4a). Note that first bat is out.
    6)less gratefully accept will's next suggestion to take over lead after he got completely pumped at midway point. Bat is in full hunting and swooping mode now.
    7) finish, bizarely enough having had a good time despite major loss of dignity. Bat has now been joined by serveral buddies and moon is up. Collect gear with aid of torch.

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