Paul on 1st Pitch of two grooves
When Dave Wiffen emailed the club asking if anyone fancied a trip to the Lakes for some winter climbing I was immediately tempted. Having had no opportunity for winter climbing last winter I was keen to try and get out this year. It turned out Rob & Paul were already planning a trip the same day – so we all went together. Brown cove crags or Blea water were mentioned – the former chosen as it was known to be in condition and a short walk-in – so good for a day trip. After an early start (Dave kindly making a no. of pickups between 6:20-6:40) we were off. When we arrived at the car park it was immediately clear that we were not going to be having the crag to ourselves. There were several pairs gearing up and others already walking in. When we arrived at the crag there were numerous groups gearing up – and as it turns out there had already been an accident which was unclear as the situation was well under control by MRT (the helicopter attended a little while later whilst we were climbing).
Dave in central gully
Rob was on a mission to lead the crux 2nd pitch of two grooves (IV,6) – so this was where he and Paul headed to start with, taking in some ice on the approach. Paul led the first pitch and a half and saved the crux for Rob. Meanwhile Dave and I headed for the somewhat easier option of stepped ridge (III). At least I think we started on this route – starting at the very foot of the buttress but appeared to have drifted onto left buttress (II) and possibly other routes. It has to be said that the lines on this section are far from clear – and longer than that suggested in the guidebook (5 long pitches). It provided a varied and quite enjoyable climb with a good short ice pitch but not overly memorable due to the lack of line.
Paul high on Stepped Ridge
With some time to spare but possibly not for another roped climb, Dave and I soloed central gully which was easy in the conditions with only the short ice step at the start being steeper than broad gully which we had used for descent. Meanwhile Rob and Paul were mainly soloing stepped ridge (or some variation of) and then roped up for the final steep upper section.
More people turned up for some dark ascents whilst we were waiting for Rob & Paul. Certainly a popular winter crag (given this was a Thursday!). Although due to the wandering nature of many of the routes and much of the terrain being grade II/III it managed to absorb the crowds.
Good to get out again.