As the 3-day Laggan meet grew near, were were treated to the traditional mega-thaw that put paid to any thoughts of winter climbing, and to make matters worse Storm Otto was on its way.
But luckily worst of it came through overnight Thursday, so with a late start and staying away from the highest tops we managed a fine loop over Creag Ruadh, a Graham above the head of Loch Laggan. Breezy on the tops but with plenty of sun, and the showers mostly passed us by.
Return was via the Pictish fort of Dum-da-lamh, making a nice relaxing circuit of just over 7 miles. Well worth doing for a shortish day out.
Some snow was forecast overnight at higher levels, but we weren't expecting to wake up to find snow lying on the ground outside the hut! After a swift adjustment of plans, we headed off en masse to traverse Creag Meagaidh. We started from the SW end of the hill at Moy, having left a car at Aberarder.
Passing a small lochan we tackled Creag na Caillaich direct, possibly unwisely at it was very steep with some loose scrambling – probably better approached via a dogleg to the left. But at least it gave us plenty of excuses to stop and look at the views, clouds swirling around and below us, with blue sky above, and even a fogbow. A long ridge then took us gradually up to the summit, sadly the clouds rolled in just below the top and that was it for views.
But old hard snow and ice on the summit plateau at least gave us an opportunity to use crampons, rather than just carrying them round all day as usual. A steep descent through the Window (where crampons were indispensable) was then followed by a long walk out to the car park. Less than 11 miles but felt a lot more!
The next day was supposed to be mild and wet, and so it proved. So some of us went for a run round the woods where the Wolftrax MTB centre is situated (accidentally running up then down a red bike run – luckily not meeting any cyclists). Jamie took the more sensible option of cycling round the same runs, while everyone else stayed indoors!
For this New Year's meet the 26th to the 1st YAC members headed to Mill Cottage, the mountaineering Scotland hut located near Feshiebridge on the edge of the Cairngorms.
The forecast looked a bit mixed but in the end was much better than expected with some fresh snowfall and two amazing blue sky days with beautiful views of the hills.
13 Members attended with a whole range of activities taking place including skiing, mountain biking, road biking, hill walking, mountaineering, trail running and cold water swimming!
They say a picture is worth 1000 words, so here are some photos!
Weather station on the summitHiding from the snowApproaching blizzard in the Ladder HillsBecky tackling the Fiacaill Ridge in proper Scottish conditionCycling in Rothiemurchus ForestDon't fall in!Three musketeersNav trainingLouise doing some race training !White outAndrew and Jane heading for the summit of CairngormDays like this make it all worthwhile!Great ski touring conditions, shame we were walking!Leathad an RaobhainThe track to the hut !Winter wonderlandMike laying fresh turns on the south slopes of CairngormFrozen over Loch Morlich
Pete surveying most of Scotland from Stob Coire Sgreamhach, Glencoe
Cold weather arrived last week and the forecasts predicted cold but settled weekend conditions so a last minute plan was hatched and bags hastily packed for a quick getaway after work on Friday – time to head to Scotland!
Parking up in a layby it was a cold, crisp and clear Friday night, with some spectacular stars out, something I really appreciate seeing when in the middle of nowhere away from the artificial lights of the city.
Saturday morning in daylight we could see the route we'd thought about doing from the van. A few days of cold weather had clearly not been enough, with thin looking ice and the hills still very green. So we binned our rather optimistic plan for another day and headed up the road to Glencoe for some more elevation where there'd be plenty of options to go at, settling for the classic Curved Ridge on Buachaille Etive Mor, which we hadn't done in winter.
Mike on Curved Ridge
Mike in a curved ridge chimney
Clear conditions meant finding the bottom of the route wasn't an issue and we started up the scramble. Despite being below freezing, there wasn't any snow so it felt fairly straightforward at first both happy soloing on dry grippy rock. As we climbed higher things got slippier with verglass and hoarfrost beginning to cover rock sections we would be happy on in summer conditions with some friction between boots and rock. The forecast wind had also arrived, whipping up the ridge with significant wind chill. We switched to alpine style, pitching a couple of short sections and moving together on the rest and above 800m the ridge was white and feeling very Scottish. Some nice chimney sections and frozen turf meant we could to get used to wearing crampons again.
Mike on Belay near the summit of Curved Ridge
Topping out late afternoon we surprised a mountain hare near the summit. The sun was setting through the clouds and it wasn't the place to be hanging around as the temperature dropped and the water started freezing inside our bottles. A careful descent down through Coire na Tulaich followed on slippery icy rocks back to the valley floor. We finished the day in the Clachaig (where else!) with a meal, well earned pint and some live music. Plenty to reflect on as is usually the case after the first winter day out of the season, such as it's better to gear up earlier than later, always pack goggles, put stuff you'll need first at the top of the rucksack, etc etc!
Pete at the top of Curved Ridge
Mars was bright and low in the western sky at daybreak on Sunday as we got the coffee on and packed kit before heading up the Lairig Eilde to Sron na Lairig. The scrambling was great all the way up and provided a good mix of winter skills practice including delicate front pointing on tiny rock placements, plenty of well frozen turf and even some ice to get the tools into.
Mike finds some ice on Sron La Lairig
Topping out we continued up to Stob Coire Sgreamhach for lunch and some fantastic views across much of Scotland. It was so clear with an alpine feel sitting in the sun with no wind. We then scrambled down from the summit and walked the Beinn Fhada ridge back north towards Glencoe before dropping down to the valley path, past a large herd of red deer and taking care on a very icy path back to the road. Still -5 at the van so another brew before hitting the road for the drive south. Fingers crossed for a good winter ahead!
Two years after our last trip to Scotland, it was probably inevitable that this one would be a sell-out. Less predictable was whether the weather would cooperate, and it wasn't looking promising for a while with a series of storms crossing the country.
But for once, things worked out well, with Eunice's winds confined to England on Friday, we instead had a day of heavy snow.
The sensible majority stayed low, taking the train to Bride of Orchy and walking back to the hut along the West Highland Way.
The foolhardy five (Marianna, Liz, Russ, Carmen and myself) set off to climb a pair of Corbetts between Killin and Lochearnside. An easy start along the disused railway path soon gave way to a trackless ascent up deep powder-strewn slopes towards the first hill, Creag Mac Rainach. Going was slow, very slow, and it soon became clear that the planned continuation to Meall an t-Seallaidh was a hill too far. But we persevered as far as the first summit, the winds steadily increasing, and we eventually reached the cairn where we lay for a minute or two, too windy to stand, before retreating back the way we came.
Saturday was a different day. Originally forecast to be a repeat of Friday's weather, the Met Office changed on Friday night to suggestions of some clear skies, sunshine even, and a 70% chance of cloud-free Munros. So plans were made…
The day dawned to weather that exceeded our best expectations, with clear blue skies, almost no wind, and wall-to-wall sunshine!
Carmen, Liz and I went for another Corbett, Beinn nan Oighreag (between the Munros of Meall Ghaoraidh and Meall nan Tarmachan) with a view to continuing west over Meall Ghaordaidh if time allowed. Of course, time did not allow, as it was another day of wading through powder, with more delays courtesy over finding a way across some icy streams.
Stopping for regular photos, we eventually reached the summit some 2 hours over guidebook time. The continuation looked like it could be even slower, and with some very loaded slopes near the top, but luckily the clock had already decided that we wouldn't attempt it. As it was, we didn't get back to the car until 5pm, and our decision was vindicated as it started to rain on the drive back to the hut.
Meanwhile, most of the others walked/waded up Meall Ghaoraidh and had a similarly magnificent day, with some sledging (bum sliding) on the way back down.
And as quickly as it had arrived, the fine weather was gone. Heavy rain overnight led to a massive thaw right up to summit level. Russ went for a short run up the West Highland Way, everyone else stayed inside until the drive home. But all in all, a superb weekend, the sort of conditions that make all the rainy days worthwhile!
Newlands Valley and the approach track in foreground
The Carlisle Climbing Club hut in the Newlands Valley is a bit of a throwback to a bygone age of (Victorian) endeavour! Hard to get to, a two kilometre track at the end of a narrow country lane, no electricity so heating by a pot bellied stove only, and lighting by gas lamps! These hardships only added to the experience of the few hardy members who attended the meet.
the hut
damp
snowy
Six members: Karl and Jayne, Richard, Alan, Simon and Carmen, met up on Friday night and were joined by Rebecca on Saturday morning.
The weather was grim at valley level in the morning. Richard headed off for the tops around Grizedale while Karl nobly volunteered to stay in the hut to mither the stove before eventually venturing out up the valley towards Dale head. The rest headed off down the valley to scale the Cat Bell/ Maiden Moor/High Spy ridge, heading south into increasingly wintry weather, eventually battling up Dale Head and Hindscarth, where the weather was horizontal wet snow.
richard
richard
Everyone returned to a very warm hut and whilst Simon and Carmen returned to York for a music gig followed by a running event in the Peak District on Sunday, and Rebecca went home to Ambleside; the four remaining got stuck into the food. Mexican Tortillas to start from Richard, Mexican Chili from Karl and Jayne and finally not Mexican but Yorkshire Fat Rascals from Alan. All slept well!!!
stove
scoff
The morning came with much clearer weather. Richard went off to do some Wainwrights near Skiddaw. Alan had a great day on Blencathra where although the sky was blue there was a strong cold wind and blowing snow which was laying and compacting well. Jayne and Karl planned to go biking in Grizedale but eventually made the right decision to also venture onto the slopes of Blencathra and some spectacular views.
Blencathra looking magnificent in the snow
A good meet in a remote and atmospheric hut. Everybody got out and did stuff despite the weather. Just as it should be.
Almost the last meet til….well, who knows? I'm writing this in the middle of the Covid 19 lock down and suddenly the opportunity to get rained on in Scottish woods feels like something I'd fight werewolves for. So anyway, there we were up in Scotland from February 13th to 15th on the inaugural Richard Payne Meet, renamed to commemorate club member Richard Payne who was tragically killed by an avalanche in the himalayas in the spring of 2019. I think we all felt a little odd on this meet, because at the same time as we were having fun in the hills, we were remembering Richard, who loved the winter meets. Anyway, this is how it went:
As is pretty standard with Scottish winter meets, it coincided with a juicy storm which limited our plans a bit.
However a couple of club members managed to sneak in an extra day at the start…..over to Rob….
"Mike and I headed up early, we had all sorts of options but in the end only got away a day early. We booked into the same hut (as any club member can do) and arrived about 10 but were not alone. The morning brought some discussion about where to go but it turns out we both parked in the snowbowl car park on the ski road and headed into Lurchers CRAG, the path should be easy but fresh power made it hard work, we avoid the Charlamain Gap and were treated to a close up view of rescue helicopter practising. It took forever to get to the bottom of the crag as we foolishly didn't drop low enough and had to traverse a huge boulder field.
We eventually found a few lines that looked ok but time was getting on, the lads from the hut were gearing up at the better-looking line. We debated waiting but took the parallel line following variable ice till rope stretch called a halt. Mike led through in blazing sunshine and blue skies, we were overheating! We topped out and past the other team soloing out of the gully and headed back, into the could and some compass work took us back (down a would-be skiable but potential avalanche slope) to the van, hut and company.
Turns out the best day of the trip by miles and a nice route about II/III (LEFT BRANCH) in places but a long walk in, and don't forget your helmet, going back to the car just delays things! "
Back to the main meet…..On Friday the main problem was high winds so Rob, Mike, Peter and Aoife decided to go walking from the ski centre, however the road was closed so they walked through the forest past Glenmore Lodge, had lunch in Ryvoan Bothy then over Meall a Buchaille. Dave Liz Carmen and Simon drove round to Lecht to find some shelter from the winds and walked up a corbett…Carn Ealasaid. Simon claims they even found a bit of sunshine in between light rain and steady wind. As for me, I decided to wander round the Rothiemurchus Forest to Loch Eillean getting lost/practising my nav and was completely oblivious of the wind down in the trees, whilst others went biking/walking
Friday night brought the usual completely excessive group meal, then on Saturday morning we got up to find the weather had really turned foul, with persistent driving rain and wind. Liz Simon and Carmen headed up another hill, apparently this one was a Graham (no, me neither) called Carn Glas-Choir, sheltering in an estate hut when the wind got too unfriendly. Mike, Sarah and Rob walked through the Rothiemurchus Forest to Loch an Eilean and back, then shopped in aviemore for shiny things. Meanwhile me, Pete E, Ann , Dave Jayne and Ana headed out the other direction into the soggy forest and even had a very wet picnic in the woods until we eventually decided enough was enough and retired to the Insh Watersports bar where we also lured Karl and things eventually ended in singing.
On Sunday those sufficiently dedicated went out for a morning run along the River Feshie and reported fresh snow and sunshine. (Callum, Sarah, Pete W and Aiofe). David Carmen and Simon headed back via Drumochter planning to climb a couple of Corbetts but changed plans a bit due to heavy snow, they eventually managed to thrash a path up to the Sow of Atholl and at 803m were only just able to stand upright on the summit plateau.
So although the weather was pretty challenging, we made the most of it, had some enjoyable if weatherbeaten days and the usual huge sociable meals and banter in the evening. Just as well if you consider what was waiting just a month or two away…..here's hoping it won't be too long before we can get out again. Here's a few photos from the meet….
A very wet forest picnic!
A few
Navigation practice in a snowy forestFound the loch!The River FeshieMeall a BuchailleSomewhere over the rainbowAbove 2 pics: Rob and Mike Shaws Early Doors Adventure
Inspired by the conditions reported by Rob and Will we set off to try and get a last lakeland winter route in at Great End. As it turned out Jamie and I weren’t the only ones inspired, the place was heaving and Window Gully had a cue of at least 3 people, after gearing up this had increased to 6 and counting. As an alternative we headed up South East Gully, neither of us had done this previously and it had the advantage of only one other team in the gully (after some faffing by us at the first belay they were well gone leaving the place pretty much to just the two of us).The snow was ok but a soft top layer made it quite hard going. The first little step in the gully had just enough ice and hooks to go, the ice pitch was excellent, it was a bit undercut at the top made it quite a challenge to exit, definitely grade III conditions. After a chat at the top with some of the other climbers we abbed into window gully and had just enough time to do the upper ice fall. The ice was fat and made for an excellent last pitch. Time the walk back to he car, in the dark, and head into Keswick for fish and chips.
The Scottish trip in February saw us heading to Glen Clova in the southern Cairngorms, keen to make the most of a good forecast and hopefully some great conditions. Axes and crampons were sharpened, skis dusted off and way too much food packed as we made our way to the newly refurbished Braedownie hut, which is owned by the Carn Dearg MC.
A few keen members had gone up early to try and get an extra day in. On Friday Paul and Jamie took the gear for a walk up Corrie Fee, sadly the conditions weren't quite as good as hoped, and all the gullies looked a "bit deathy" (Jamie's words!), so they followed Simon and Carmen up the buttress of Craig Rennet (deep, soft snow and heather).
Rob takes up the story for Saturday: "After much discussion and lots of delays while waiting for the rain to stop, Jamie, Paul, Rob, Dave, Russ, Dan and Peri headed off towards Winter Corrie in the light drizzle. The Walk in is quite straightforward and takes a little over an hour. We were greeted with a view of much snow and huge cornices overhanging the main buttresses. The line of Diagonal Gully did appear to have lots of ice on it but we decided against it. Peri retreated back to the hut before taking a stroll to Corrie Fee, the rest of us made our way to the centre of the Corrie and had a lunch break by the huge boulder.
We picked a route up the eastern (less loaded) slopes which was cornice free and with rocks to join up in a route to the rim. We all trudged up, put our crampons on before tackling a few rock steps on the way to the top. Dan ran laps around various bits of the slope with a huge grin on his face.
We topped out in calm, bright sunshine and blue skies and were rewarded with wonderful panoramic views. The team then plodded to Driesh summit and hid by the trig point before splitting up. Paul, Jamie and Dave route marched over to Mayar and down the Kilbo path. Rob Dan and Russ navved back to the corrie and descended the spur, which was occasionally eventful with deep snow and large patches. At the bottom, they crossed the style of doom and the found the bridge which made a short walk back to the hut".
While they were all playing in Winter corrie, another group of 6 headed further on to Corrie Fee to have a look. Again this was found to be powdery and unconsolidated, although everyone managed a route of some kind, sticking well clear of the unstable looking gullies. After ascending the left hand side buttress, Richard and Pete continued over the plateau to the Munros of Mayar (928m) and Driesh (947m) in the sunshine, with some great sastrugi patterns to admire on the way across.
Jamie: "On Sunday, being pretty knackered and thoroughly sick of carrying a big sack, I went for a wee run in the snow, telling Paul I'd be back in an hour, which turned out to be 13km, climbed to over 700m (at the shelter) and took 2h15m. Only out by 125%!" .
Pete, Mike and Richard having seen the cracking conditions on the plateau the day before were keen to get the skis out and head up for a day tour. After boot-packing up Glen Doll they popped the skis on at the forest edge and skinned up Jock's road past the emergency shelter to tick off their first munro on ski (Tolmount, 958m).
The tour continued over the Munro Tom Buidhe (957m) as the viz came and went in the strong wind, and then the cloud came down properly, resulting in some challenging navigation to get off the plateau. Turns out trying to estimate how far you've travelled and contouring on skis is pretty tricky! Sadly they couldn't do the best downhill ski sections justice in the white out, and found their way down corrie fee before hiking back through the forest to the hut.
Monday was the day to travel home, and with a poor forecast most were planning short trips out before hitting the road. This resulted in a pleasant group walk up to Loch Brandy from the valley bottom behind the hotel. Some carried on to the Corbett 'The Goet' (Ben Tirran) unfortunately no views to reward them, but they did find a bothy to eat lunch out of the weather. Peri went for a 'powder swim' up driesh in an 'epic' amount of snow following fresh falls overnight getting some fabulous views before the clag blew in.
Apologies I don't have a record of what everyone got up to, but all agreed it was a great weekend of winter adventures, hanging out in the mountains with friends, and of course calorie loading YAC style!
… but we didn't, we went to Brown Cove Crags. On a stunning day Mike (being only slightly ill) & I (Rob being only slightly stupid and being awoken at 6.30 in PJs) responded to Dave W's call to hills and headed over to the Lakes. Parking in the layby we walked through Swirls car park – which is now free (well the machine has been busted for months apparently) and upto the cove in improving weather.
We were not sure what we'd find given the preceding week's weather, the crag certainly looked wintery. In reality, there was a smattering of new soft snow lying on top of waterlogged old snow that in places was great but mostly was only just ok. Some turf was hard but most was rubbish so we kept off the turfy buttresses.
We headed up a lean Central Gully mostly on our feet with an occasional gymnastic move off a hook. Towards the top we headed left across the buttresses which was fun. Nearly all done with 1 axe, Mike didn't bother with cramps. On top the weather was stunning and the views of the rising snowline on Skiddaw group picturesque. Dave and I descended Left Parallel Gully and came back up Right, both easy grade 1 plods with no real interest, but good to get the feel for the snow.
Back on top Mike had built a bollard and we did some skills revision (stompers, NZ stompers, bucket seats, buried axe and boot-axe belays and body belaying – as well as rope coiling to make Mike look like a professional alpinist. I then suggested to Mike we test his bollard by abbing down the gully, I was very suspicious of the size. As Mike weighs next to nought the abbing went ok but when I asked him to jump and pull on the rope it got a little more exciting. It was quite interesting watching the rope cutting through 3/4 of the bollard. Luckily I had him on a separate belay. Enlightening.
After some lunch, we strolled up to Helvellyn summit, observing the faces, lack of cornices etc, to see how the busy Red Tarn face was. We toyed with the idea of descending and doing a route but in the end, just watched the teams coming up and left in a bit of mist.
As we headed back along the ridge, we watched a young woman and mad dog (Duke I think) bounding up the face from the snow bowl. We were amazed at the Duke's performance and the woman looked clearly competent making short work of the snow slope which steepened a bit, no more than Grade 1 territory. We spoke briefly at the top as Duke ran around enthusiastically and we wandered off just as she called down to her male partner to check on him.
A nice stroll back down, observing a helicopter, and we were on the road fairly early and back in York for 7. Only then did we find out about the epic that unfurled behind us.
Apparently, the woman's husband got into difficulties with bendy boots on the headwall and requested help from nearby climbers (Wes). One of them grabbed a couple of axes and in his haste to reach the climber, tripped over his crampons and went head first down the snow bowl for 150m. He was rescued by his mates (while Alan Hinkes sorted the stranded climber out) and walked off the hill for while until feeling bad and calling MR out. A few busted ribs is all the long-term damage.
Quite a day for learning opportunities!
pix from Mike, Daves camera broke, I forgot mine in rush !
On Sat. Peri, Mike, and Rob did the early(ish) start and drive to the Lakes to check out Blea Water. Arriving at the car park about 8.30, the drive being interesting for the last few miles along Mardale. It was a bit warmer than hoped for and the mistier but we were walking by about 9. The large snow deposits had made the hills very pretty but the walking awkward. the snow was soft and deep a but fortunately, there was a trail to follow!
The walk-in should take about an hour to the tarn but was a little longer and once we had sorted out our destination we skirted the left edge of the tarn and arrived at the chimney pitch to be greeted by Yorkie Jim Croft and his son Euan. We thanked them for their hard work trail bashing and chatted about the poor quality of the ice in the chimney. Rob had a look and declared it climable but a long way from good. Jim & Euan were contemplating bailing but we decided as a team to skip around the first pitch and head for the main icefall which looked ok.
When I say skip, what I mean is swim. Snow up to our waists and soft and squishy. Never felt like it would slide off but it wasn't reassuring. After a bit of a battle, we all made it to the buried belay ledge and dug out the boulder.
Mike set off leading up some bulging ice with an awkward step. Peri followed and I went up a little to the side. Jim then led Euan up, who learned the hard way about getting cold hands whilst belaying. The belays are not that great at the top and it took Mike a while to find a decent spike at 50m. Jim on longer ropes found a place to bring up Euan.
mike
crofty watching Peri
Peri
After that pitch Jim and Euan decided to head off home, traversing the hillside and back to the tarn. Rob led a pitch with some icy steps and we unroped after that. Stumbling onto the summit ridge we were greeted by a wonderful sunset, and we traipsed off over Mardale Ill Bell and down to Small Water – a lovely wee tarn with a group camping.
We nearly made it back to the car without head torches and the drive back (after pushing a tourist out) got us back to York for 8ish.
