Will and I made the most of the recent very cold spell and headed for Cautley Spout in the Howgills yesterday. Leaving at a reasonable 6am and -6 or so we arrived via clear roads, and cold temps(min -13) to a car park with 2 cars – bugger. Short flat stunning walk-in and we met two teams – a pair and a 3 (inc Pete Nugent ex of this parish). A few small steps lead to the main pitch 30m of ice up a huge fall (mixed variant on left a possibility).
First leader made steady/slowish progress but left the gear in for their mates (plenty of screws in thick ice and wires at the top). Top out looking like the awkward bit, and avoiding a drenching from the spray also tricky. The top of the main falls was in full sunshine all morning and with quite a flow, looking a bit dubious the more traffic it got.
After the usual waiting about and a bit of bouldering and running laps on the first steps to keep warm a soloist/er, kitted out like a pro, appeared and in the normal way went for a look off line before coming back onto the main line, made some weak excuse – but I wanted him out of our way so suggested he get on with it. He called down a few times for us to follow as he 'wouldn't knock anything down' – tell that to the lump that caught me square under the eye – thanks. He starts to faff at the last 6m step up the melting ice – then calls me up – oh dear.
I catch him up – he's apologetic (as he bloody well should be) and basically he's shafted. I place a few screws and end up untying one rope and giving it to him so he can 'lead up'. I then have to tell him to drop the rope for me to reattach and carry on. Would have been less painful if I wasn't stood full in the spray at this time. I did garner a lovely wet-look finish to my sac – the frozen spray making it shiny and stiff! Anyhow I tied on, placed some wires and finished the pitch – mainly easy mixed. I'd lost my rhythm a bit but was trying to be sanguine so as not to ruin the experience. Belay to a huge tree and try to warm my toes and dry my hands – had to wring out my gloves!
Will was freezing cold (having rejected the offer of a belay jacket – plonker) but romped up the pitch and lead the next short step just for some ice screw placement practice. We coiled the ropes – well when I say coiled – some bits were stiff as rods from the spray.
What we hadn't realised was quite how good the continuation steps/pitches are. Must be 4 decent mini pitches in really good nick. Catching up the group of 3 as they pitched the last section, we soon were at the top having soloed from the top of P1/P2. Top day out, easy walk in and out.
We drove back via Tebay to have a look at the falls but it was getting dark and we couldn't be arsed although there is some good thin ice lines there, didn't really want to put our wet clothes back on and set up top ropes. Will apparently drove back as I woke up at Scotch Corner!
Do you have any photos of your shiny, stiff wet-look sac?
fnarr fnarr