Made in Scotland but driven by englishmen Centurion is one of the great Scottish rock climbs first climbed by the late great Don Whillans.
Carn Dearg Buttress from the CIC hut.
This was to be our last days climbing, we had arrived late in Fort Bill overnighting in the North Face car park we were up and walking at 05.00. Weather wise the wind had dropped, the forecasts were not good but everything looked settled so we really did not know what to expect. We were on the rock by 07.30 & it was cold, the route generally follows a big corner line with an entry pitch up the left wall.
This was steep, damp & my fingers were very cold, however soon after we reached the first stance the sun came up & the atmosphere changed. The next pitch was the crux an immaculate 130 ft 5a corner a little damp but well protected this is one of the best pitch’s in the UK.
The crux 5a pitch follows a superb corner crack
After this the route easies off with a series of really neat exits to avoid the main overhangs. If the route has a downside it’s the central pitches which leave the main groove & both the difficulty & the quality drop off but never fear.It has a bit of a sting in the tail with another 5a pitch that is best described as spacewalking, superb.
Final moves of the crux pitch.
The final pitch follows in the same vein a little easier but on poorer rock which probably is not very permanent. We descended Ledge route, a month ago I had climbed this with Stu & Pete, it was now a grassy path, lower down we eventually had to leave the rock and sliver down the tongue of slushy snow.
The easier middle section of Centurion
We descended to Fort William & drove south after a week of frustrating climbing, we had travelled over 1100 miles & only managed to eak out a handful of decent climbs.
The final escape pitch
The stats
Centurion 900ft Hvs 4c,5a,4b,4b,4b,5a,4c *** (featured in Hard Rock)