After the usual dithering about where to go, we somehow managed to end up at Stanage. Not sure how that happened, it's not nearly esoteric enough, there are even some recognised classic routes there.
In an attempt to make up for this lapse, we started off at the Enclosure Buttress area, the bit between the Plantation and High Neb that nobody ever climbs on. Rain the previous night had left the rock green and greasy, so providing me with an excuse for bottling out of the crux of Central Buttress (VS 5a **). After a little half-hearted soloing on some filthy Diffs, we wandered towards the plantation in search of something cleaner and drier.
Despite the increasing crowds, we found Goliath's Groove (HVS 5a ***) unexpectedly free, so Rob geared up and set off. Shortly later he was back at the bottom, courtesy of a slipped-off slippery layback. A change of tactics was called for, so he duly thrutched his way to the top.
It looked my sort of climb, requiring thrashing ability rather than finesse or good technique, so Rob pulled his ropes and I led on his gear. First attempt, I replaced his humongous cam with my own, which achieved little other than wearing me out, but made me feel better somehow. So after a down climb to the bottom for a short rest, I resumed and made what was for me a relatively quick ascent – I've certainly faffed more on most VSs I've led. So it's now officially downgraded 😉
Carmen, seconding, decided to show us how to do it elegantly, so bridged the corner instead. And fell off. Rob then tried the same, thirding. And also fell off – pulling me off my stance as he did so, as I'd moved when Carmen got to the top, and not moved back again. Oops.
Ian, Kirk, and co now arrived, having helped pick up the pieces when someone did a head-plant after falling most of the height of the crag. Somehow the climber involved not only survived, but left hospital the next day with nothing more than a few cuts and bruises.
Ian kept us all amused by fighting and swearing his way up and down Archangel on a top rope for a bit, then Rob led Wall End Flake Crack (VS 4c **). I followed with the adjacent Wall End Holly Tree Crack (HS 4b *) – we decided it wasn't hard enough so added a rule that we weren't allowed to touch the VS crack on the left 🙂
Finally we wandered off left to look at B Crack, S 4b **. Carmen led, and it was nice enough but not really worth any stars. And other than a tricky move to get off the ground, was standard Diff fare.
Photos here and Ian's blog here.
Tags: backing off, green, wake up call
I hear bits are falling off Right Unconquerable these days simon, you might want to try that…