Posts Tagged ‘green’

If you go down to the woods today . . . part 2

Thursday, August 12th, 2010

Club trip was to Wharncliff as we can climb until 9ish but Peri had some time off and I moved a meeting so we could escape early. Simon, Carmen, Dave and Gordon arrived at a more usual time and stayed around the main edge, but apart from a few txts we were incommunicado so I am not sure what they did.

Our journey started badly, stuck behind a small town being transported along the A64 at 40mph meaning we didn't get to Wharncliff until quite late. With Himmelswillen on Peri's tick list we warmed up soloing the routes on the black slab and variants then onto the main event. Sunshine and blue skies accompanied Peri's grunts and she made the lovely moves around the overhang to the flake and laced it with gear. All goods moves and worth repeating now she has finally ticked it.

I had a hankering for a brace of VS ** off the beaten track. We soon found Pocket Buttress VS 4b ** , some signs of a recent visit but not much traffic. A good cleaning and an indirect start (avoiding the 4c/5a direct unprotected moves) to the pockets and gear, followed by a lovely traverse and moves up onto the nose. Really good varied climbing and worthwhile.

Next was Scarlett Crack VS 4c/5a ** – some 200m further on, except it's not it's 330m, so we took an age to find it, but Peri got some fungus for later consumption. It's actually not that hard to find – from the Outlook boulders go 300m to a HUGE (car sized) cubish block behind a tree by the path waiting to fall off, in another 50m you will see large the pinnacle with small tree on top, down on your right, jungle bash your way down to it.

The front face is clean apart for the start of our route and some ferns. Peri made a meal of the start muttering some heightist rubbish 🙂 the rest of the route is a joy and went without a hitch. Getting down is entertaining but easy and short lived.

Now dark we had the long walk (must be 1K or so) back to the pylons and back through the woods, head torches helping, surprised we didn't see S+C on one last route.

More pictures …

In the Groove

Thursday, October 15th, 2009

After the usual dithering about where to go, we somehow managed to end up at Stanage. Not sure how that happened, it's not nearly esoteric enough, there are even some recognised classic routes there.

In an attempt to make up for this lapse, we started off at the Enclosure Buttress area, the bit between the Plantation and High Neb that nobody ever climbs on. Rain the previous night had left the rock green and greasy, so providing me with an excuse for bottling out of the crux of Central Buttress (VS 5a **). After a little half-hearted soloing on some filthy Diffs, we wandered towards the plantation in search of something cleaner and drier.

Despite the increasing crowds, we found Goliath's Groove (HVS 5a ***) unexpectedly free, so Rob geared up and set off. Shortly later he was back at the bottom, courtesy of a slipped-off slippery layback. A change of tactics was called for, so he duly thrutched his way to the top.

It looked my sort of climb, requiring thrashing ability rather than finesse or good technique, so Rob pulled his ropes and I led on his gear. First attempt, I replaced his humongous cam with my own, which achieved little other than wearing me out, but made me feel better somehow. So after a down climb to the bottom for a short rest, I resumed and made what was for me a relatively quick ascent – I've certainly faffed more on most VSs I've led. So it's now officially downgraded 😉

Carmen, seconding, decided to show us how to do it elegantly, so bridged the corner instead. And fell off. Rob then tried the same, thirding. And also fell off – pulling me off my stance as he did so, as I'd moved when Carmen got to the top, and not moved back again. Oops.

Ian, Kirk, and co now arrived, having helped pick up the pieces when someone did a head-plant after falling most of the height of the crag. Somehow the climber involved not only survived, but left hospital the next day with nothing more than a few cuts and bruises.

Ian kept us all amused by fighting and swearing his way up and down Archangel on a top rope for a bit, then Rob led Wall End Flake Crack (VS 4c **). I followed with the adjacent Wall End Holly Tree Crack (HS 4b *) – we decided it wasn't hard enough so added a rule that we weren't allowed to touch the VS crack on the left 🙂

Finally we wandered off left to look at B Crack, S 4b **. Carmen led, and it was nice enough but not really worth any stars. And other than a tricky move to get off the ground, was standard Diff fare.

Photos here and Ian's blog here.