Posts Tagged ‘backing off’

In the Groove

Thursday, October 15th, 2009

After the usual dithering about where to go, we somehow managed to end up at Stanage. Not sure how that happened, it's not nearly esoteric enough, there are even some recognised classic routes there.

In an attempt to make up for this lapse, we started off at the Enclosure Buttress area, the bit between the Plantation and High Neb that nobody ever climbs on. Rain the previous night had left the rock green and greasy, so providing me with an excuse for bottling out of the crux of Central Buttress (VS 5a **). After a little half-hearted soloing on some filthy Diffs, we wandered towards the plantation in search of something cleaner and drier.

Despite the increasing crowds, we found Goliath's Groove (HVS 5a ***) unexpectedly free, so Rob geared up and set off. Shortly later he was back at the bottom, courtesy of a slipped-off slippery layback. A change of tactics was called for, so he duly thrutched his way to the top.

It looked my sort of climb, requiring thrashing ability rather than finesse or good technique, so Rob pulled his ropes and I led on his gear. First attempt, I replaced his humongous cam with my own, which achieved little other than wearing me out, but made me feel better somehow. So after a down climb to the bottom for a short rest, I resumed and made what was for me a relatively quick ascent – I've certainly faffed more on most VSs I've led. So it's now officially downgraded 😉

Carmen, seconding, decided to show us how to do it elegantly, so bridged the corner instead. And fell off. Rob then tried the same, thirding. And also fell off – pulling me off my stance as he did so, as I'd moved when Carmen got to the top, and not moved back again. Oops.

Ian, Kirk, and co now arrived, having helped pick up the pieces when someone did a head-plant after falling most of the height of the crag. Somehow the climber involved not only survived, but left hospital the next day with nothing more than a few cuts and bruises.

Ian kept us all amused by fighting and swearing his way up and down Archangel on a top rope for a bit, then Rob led Wall End Flake Crack (VS 4c **). I followed with the adjacent Wall End Holly Tree Crack (HS 4b *) – we decided it wasn't hard enough so added a rule that we weren't allowed to touch the VS crack on the left 🙂

Finally we wandered off left to look at B Crack, S 4b **. Carmen led, and it was nice enough but not really worth any stars. And other than a tricky move to get off the ground, was standard Diff fare.

Photos here and Ian's blog here.

Run away!

Wednesday, September 23rd, 2009

Most people have apparently developed an aversion to daylight and are now restricting their evening climbing to indoor walls. This, combined with an outbreak of the lurgy among those who still prefer fresh air, meant that once again there were just two of us last night.

The destination was Spofforth for some low-grade bouldering. It didn't take long to decide that it was all a bit too highball for us, with most of the cruxes being at the top, above back-breaking ledges, so most of the evening was spent backing off problems and/or climbing unlisted lines on bits of rock barely above head height. But it was all good fun anyway, on a cloudy but warm and dry evening.

After a couple of hours, darkness was approaching, so we packed up and headed off. The crux of the evening followed – negotiating a field full of cows with their young calves without getting trampled.

Problems successfully retreated from:
Hang Up (4c)
Jamline (4c)
Green Wall (4c)
Exclusive ("4a" sandbag)
Lime Hole (4a – got as far as the finishing holds but couldn't face the final mantelshelf onto the grassy gravel-strewn summit)

Problems with failed retreats (accidentally completed):
Birds Lavatory (4a)
The Arete (too easy to grade)
South Face (too easy to grade)
North West Arete (4a)
Pot Scoop (too easy to grade – surprisingly good despite starting in a gorse bush)
Pedestal Arete ("4c" closer to 4a, maybe the grades of this and the adjacent Exclusive got swapped)