Last week we found another obscure crag for the collection, a good one when the nights are drawing in. The Went Valley Craglets are hidden away in the back of the Yorkshire Limestone guide, and are a few miles south of the A1/M62 junction, only 45 minutes' drive from York. There are a few small crags dotted around, but only one has any recorded routes – Long Crag. It's in a very scenic location, lots of farmland and a nice wooded valley. Parking is in a nature reserve car-park, though on the day we went it was partly filled with a burnt-out car courtesy of the local joy riders!
It's very steep (vertical to overhanging), with little in the way of protection – so the guidebook advises soloing or top-roping. Since everything is VS or above and up to 13m high, soloing was not an option for us! Unfortunately, the belay bolts/stakes that used to be at the top have all been removed – but with the help of 2 ropes, we managed to set up good anchors on fence posts and a tree on either side of the crag. The descent down the near end of the crag crosses a farmer's fields (no trespassing), but the far end is easily accessed down a steep wooded slope.
We managed 3 routes. We started with Main Overhang Left-Hand, HVS 5a, but actually the easiest we did. Then Original Route (VS 4c *), the 'classic of the crag'. Very overhanging, but with big bucket holds, a bit like a climbing wall. Finally, Problem Wall (VS 5a), which gave us a few problems! The start is supposed to be the crux, but it finishes over a roof, and it was this that caused us most trouble. I went first, and avoided the issue by turning it on the right. Then Carmen, who needed a short rest ion the rope, but then despatched it with relative ease. Will showed how it should be done, with a lengthy dogging session involving much swearing before an eventual retreat to my cop-out variation. And finally, I gave the roof another go – a couple of rests needed, and a bit of a tight rope, but got there in the end – the holds are there, it's just a question of finding them before your strength gives out!
Some more photos here.
