Posts Tagged ‘dogging’

Raven's Scar

Thursday, July 14th, 2011

Indecision about the weather meant a last-minute choice of Raven's Scar for this evening. It had been dry all day in York, but as we neared the crag the wet roads told us that Clay Bank hadn't been so lucky. Having got that far, we thought we might as well go for a look at the crag, which turned out to be fairly dry, and also covered with members of the Cleveland MC. Plenty of routes to round though.

Roy's introduction to the crag was to follow Carmen and I on a fruitless search for the whereabouts of Galaxy (VDiff *). We've tried and failed before to find it, I think it's the figment of someone's imagination. Having given up on that, I went for a quick lead of Airlift (S) via the variation start. The word "quick" only being true in a geological sense. By the time I reached the top the others were showing the first signs of frostbite in the northerly wind.

While this was going on, Will and Rob made genuinely quick ascents of Ahab (HS) and Forest face (HS), before deciding to slow things down with a protracted siege of Jonah (VS 5a "my arse"). This took up enough time for the 3 of us to tick off Forest Face, after which most of decided it was too cold to climb anything else. But Rob and Will were in training for winter hot-aches so finished with En Passant (S).

One of the best crags in the Moors in the right conditions, which unfortunately weren't in evidence this evening!

A few more photos here.

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Esoterica-R-Us

Monday, September 6th, 2010

Last week we found another obscure crag for the collection, a good one when the nights are drawing in. The Went Valley Craglets are hidden away in the back of the Yorkshire Limestone guide, and are a few miles south of the A1/M62 junction, only 45 minutes' drive from York. There are a few small crags dotted around, but only one has any recorded routes – Long Crag. It's in a very scenic location, lots of farmland and a nice wooded valley. Parking is in a nature reserve car-park, though on the day we went it was partly filled with a burnt-out car courtesy of the local joy riders!

It's very steep (vertical to overhanging), with little in the way of protection – so the guidebook advises soloing or top-roping. Since everything is VS or above and up to 13m high, soloing was not an option for us! Unfortunately, the belay bolts/stakes that used to be at the top have all been removed – but with the help of 2 ropes, we managed to set up good anchors on fence posts and a tree on either side of the crag. The descent down the near end of the crag crosses a farmer's fields (no trespassing), but the far end is easily accessed down a steep wooded slope.

We managed 3 routes. We started with Main Overhang Left-Hand, HVS 5a, but actually the easiest we did. Then Original Route (VS 4c *), the 'classic of the crag'. Very overhanging, but with big bucket holds, a bit like a climbing wall. Finally, Problem Wall (VS 5a), which gave us a few problems! The start is supposed to be the crux, but it finishes over a roof, and it was this that caused us most trouble. I went first, and avoided the issue by turning it on the right. Then Carmen, who needed a short rest ion the rope, but then despatched it with relative ease. Will showed how it should be done, with a lengthy dogging session involving much swearing before an eventual retreat to my cop-out variation. And finally, I gave the roof another go – a couple of rests needed, and a bit of a tight rope, but got there in the end – the holds are there, it's just a question of finding them before your strength gives out!

Some more photos here.

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Posted in Climbing, Crags | 2 Comments »