York Alpine Club Blog

Sun rock 2 was a mash up of YAC folks and various friends who were all lured to climb on turkish rock at Geyikbayiri in Antalya in the far south of Turkey, where we had heard the rock was steep and unpolished, the routes were long and well bolted and the sun was likely to shine. All were true. We had also heard the grading was quite stiff, and egos were likely to get battered. This was also true.

The landscape was fantastic, a deep valley just over an hour from the airport, lined by a succession of vertical limestone cliffs honeycombed with spectacular caves and interspersed with lush green woodland. Above the valley was a range of impressive mountains, on days when the clouds hung round the peaks the effect was like a japanese painting.

above – Geyikbayiri landscapes

The local crags were so extensive it was possible to stay there all week without running out of routes at the grades we were looking for, so Ali, Rachel, Poppy, Peri, Andrea Graham and Dave S did that, while Simon Carmen Pete E and Dave D and Isabelle mixed it up a bit more, with a cultural visit to an ancient deserted city and to seaside climbing at Olympos seaside (verdict – water worn, rounded and stiffly graded) plus a couple of trad days.

above -Graham on Turkish Standard, 6b+, one of the classics of the crag

One of the trad days provided us with a fine epic. Simon Carmen Pete and Dave D decided to do a big day out on a big nearby peak. The rest of us frowned a little when at 6.30pm we got a text from S & C saying they had just reached the summit…. later in the evening we got another text explaining that Pete and dave had liked the mountain so much they would be staying there overnight. Pete had pulled off a rock,  mashing up his ankle and been unable to finish in daylight, so they very sensibly decided to bivvy and complete the route next morning. S &C arrived back at midnight, then poor simon got up at the crack of dawn next day to collect the others. After a long day limping up the rest of the way to the summit and down the other side with a badly swollen ankle they arrived back  30 minutes before the drive to the airport.

above – the overnight bivvy party returns, and Petes battered legs (didnt get a pic of the ankle, probably just as well as it might put you off your food)

We stayed at a local guesthouse, Rasayan Organic. However another time we would definately stay at Jo-si-to campsite instead, which was five minutes walk from the crag and had a lovely welcoming atmosphere, plus nice bar and cafe,  a fire pit with benches round it and a slackline. We hung out there a lot, you could sit at the bar after climbing with a nice cold beer and watch people still on the routes, trying for the umpteenth time to work the hard moves over the cave roofs.

above – Dave S at josito demonstrating his mastery of slacklining

If only we could have said the same about the guesthouse…it was an attractive well furnished building with great views, but spoilt by the attitude of the owners who levied additional charges at every opportunity (you want coffee at breakfast? no-one in turkey drinks coffee,  you will have to pay extra to buy the coffee and cafetiere! You want to use the kettle to make tea? Three euros per 7 uses!) . The high point was probably when Simon got up early on his rescue mission and Carmen was subsequently woken by the landlady shining a torch into their bedroom, presumably seized by the suspicion they were doing a runner.

On a much nicer note we also  paid a visit to a lovely fish restaurant based near the local trout farm, where we sat on low benches while the smiley owner brought out the freshest fish ever and piles of chips, aubergine salad and popcorn – definately worth seeking out – take the turning below sector anabolic.

overall verdict – great place, would love to go back. Just book early enough to stay at Josito's!

C³ continues the story….

Gav and I arrived Friday and found our way to the Olive Branch. After a chill out and room swap, we headed out to a local crag Las Encantadas. Gav decided to warm up on a 6a, I decided to top rope the route to warm up. Gav clearly is a brave, fearless and capable climber, so Karl and I had an agreement that we would send him up the hard stuff – I added to this criteria – anything I didn’t like the look of.

Saturday: Gav and I didn’t go back to bed on the first day Paul, we had loads of coffee in honour of Karl who was kidnapped by Rob et al and forced up a multi pitch (Rogelio – see Paul’s account above) against his will. He actually had the best time but had only managed to consume 3 coffees before early start after beer till 1am. Gav and I did have a slow start but made our way to Escalera Arabe, the same crag. Climbed some nice 6a’s and then dropped the grades to finish nicely.

A very detailed discussion was held by all on the difficulties of women needing to wee on a multi pitch. A number of suggestions were made…please no postings. Dinner was provided by the Olive Branch – decided cooking was not on our agenda.

Sunday Karl was rescued and he got plenty of coffee before we all set of to the Busena Sombra sector of Desplomilandia. The day started on nasty 5+ in the corner (Escombros and Autan) again, demonstrating rather creative grading of routes. Like Paul, Karl’s favourite was Sin Mantenimiento (top 50 6a). After the sun hit we retreated for ice cream and coffee and a paddlele (not piddle) in the huge lakes on way home. Rob, Pete, Paul and I diverted en-route to re visit Stanage Girls – a lovely sustained and interesting route. Climbed to the sound of calling frogs! Back at the Olive Branch Gav supplied cold beers and Karl enjoyed his first shower!

Monday we headed for Turon West for Gav to lead a 6b in the early shade. He proved to be brave and fearless in all his leads whilst I was shameless in top roping his hard work! After much debate about gear and risk Karl, Gav and I decided to do a multi pitch (Top 50 5+ Multi pitch Julay Lama). Karl bravely led the first pitch risking spaced bolt placement and crazy rock formations on 1st pitch that would very neatly turn the human body in to crudités on a lead fall. I lead the second pitch to contend with more crazy bolting and loads of swearing. We all came down safely with minimal rat interference with our food. This may have been the day I was renamed a dusty donkey due to my load (litres of water just incase…). Gav did a vicious looking 6b+ (Manteca Colora) which again I shamelessly top roped and quite enjoyed. He then spied and led a beautiful 6b which was renamed the Crying Game after I climbed it and it brought tears of joy to my eyes; a beautiful route where the movements and rock flowed. Rob was not so taken with it when he and Pete climbed it later in the week (see other post). My favourite climb of all time. Ended the day all playing on 6b+ slab, crux at about 3m, don’t think any did it onsight

After the stress of the multi pitch Karl felt able to confess that he forgot to put us down for dinner…resulted in a marvellous feast of a sheep in a local restaurant.

Tuesday proved to be a day of adventure with a walk through a railway tunnel after Rob wisely checked the time tables to avoid a near miss with the first train. Two Germans considered us a bit wussy for waiting. They said they’d just walk quickly; after all it was just a big whoosh. Never mind, Rob was doing a grand job of improving German relations in the bunk house.

Again Gav lead a 32 metre top 50 6c – Pilier Dorada, with a long belay from Karl who had to take a leak midway. No details on this. Again I shamelessly topped roped it and followed not the chalk marks but the trail of blood. Karl made a good way up before retreating to use facilities again. Joined by nice Norwegians with a nice dog. Meanwhile Rob and Pete set up an abseil to start a rather sparsely bolted multipitch. Great photos of this to follow.

After all contributing to the blood flow on the 6c we pushed our way through dense undergrowth to some easier but polished routes at Cotos Medios. Karl led then 3C did as well and seems to remember having some what of a tantrum on route. A Number One, a top 50 4+, nice but not like a 4+ at Harrogate! The route next to this followed and C3 found a particular tricky move (and swear words) mid way. Pete led Super Galleta a top 50 6a, it caused some pain though, esp for Gav who HATED it, Rob quite liked it and 3C waltzed up it (On top rope though).

A great adventure on the way back via Camino del Rey through the Gorge. A proper adventure to cross (jump) the river and locate the start, – but all cool cos Rob is our leader (deluded fools –Rob) Karl vvv happy.

Wednesday saw a very hot day so litres of water and much debate about ice cream rather than climbing. We all visited Turon East but due to lazy breakfast and much coffee, we were a bit it late so shade was fading fast. First climb was a thruchy, trad-a-like 5+ Ultima del Ano (Karl liked, 3C hated and fell, top roped after but still hated it). Got cooked so left for Turon west for shade, river and beautiful blue/purple flowers. Also home to newly named Crying Game. Karl and I in Sang hymns (Amazing Grace – knew all the words) to Gav on top 50 5+ (Floja y pendulona) although not sure the singing helped with harder routes. Much prefer West to East side.

Thursday was the last day and we were joined by a Lee, who had lost her climbing partner for the week. Great steady climber. Headed for Valle de Abdalajis, sector fisuras. Started on a Top 50 4+, Un pobre infeliz. Like Paul, not impressed with the grade or ridiculous lower off point and again had a bit of a tantrum at the top! Sore shoulder and lack of will left me top roping routes for the rest of the day! Fantastic routes to the left and the strong and the brave kept on cimbing and leading losing much skin and blood Eg Cantolandia (3* 6a), Fisuras Armoniosas (top 50 6a+) Many left skin and blood on Ozu! 6b Cheese grater layback – Dedos Sangrientos 5 but think up graded to 5+ or 6a?

Headed back to the Olive Branch for a celebratory sheep dinner again with much beer and heavy hearts as the holiday was over. Road trip to Morocco anyone…

more pix to follow and robs version of events …..