York Alpine Club Blog

Raven's scar cont.

I had started a blog last week but had not had time to finish. I have deleted most to save repetition. 

Simon finished off the evening by leading the classic forest face, whilst Will, Rob and Paul attempted the start of Jonah – which has now become an annual challenge for Will & Rob who appear to be making some progress – maybe next visit. There was much shouting of encouragement to help Will's attempts which made for an amusing background noise whilst belaying & seconding Forest face. Justine's services were required (see photo) to retrieve the wire which had seen a fair amount of hanging around on. All in all, an entertaining evening – well worth missing the last England match for.

Peak scar

The previous weeks climbing had also been on the moors at Peak scar. Just myself, Simon C, Dave D and Donal this time. It has to be said there appears to have been a lack of traffic recently as we had to wade through the vegetation on the path around the bottom of the crag – and some vegetation appears to have cropped up on the routes. Simon wanted to take a look at one of the newer Tony Marr routes, The edge alternative start (VS 4c) at the right hand end of the crag. After taking a visual look he decided that he wasn't feeling that great and didn't fancy the lead. I bravely? volunteered instead – it turned out to be a good route. The start is rather lacking in gear (apart from a low break) and the rock a little crumbly in one area (heart stopping moment as one of my handholds crumbled). However, once safely on top of the ledge, the rest of the route was solid, with plenty of gear and good climbing (steep wall to start, then traverse, crack, wall, traverse). Description states you can traverse left at the top – which we did which makes for an extremely exposed finish on the nose – on the right hand side of the prow overhanging walkin. Meanwhile Dave and Donal were just around the corner – Donal led Downbeat & then Dave D led Walkin. Simon then led walkin once it was free. Donal sensibly decided to head back at this point. So the rest of us embarked on another route – time for Jordu. I hadn't realised how late it was when I suggested this – no head torches were needed to climb, but it was certainly dark when we were packing up.

Wharncliffe

After many confused emails Richard, myself, Simon C, Donal, Peter W and Dave D made it to Wharncliffe (whilst Paul & Rob were checking out Shooter's nab). It was a lovely warm evening (people even complaining too hot at times). There was a lot of new graffiti, but the climbing was as good as ever. Richard and I were there first – without a guidebook, so we headed for Beta crack as I was confident I could find that. We had just finished this when Simon arrived. Richard then got to place his shiny gear by leading Romulus – by which time the rest had arrived. Richard & Dave paired off and headed for the classic Putrell's progress. Meanwhile, Simon & I went off to try one of the new lines which was short but quite interesting moves in the bottom half. Simon then led Putrell's progress whilst R&D climbed a couple of routes around the corner. Simon & I finished the evening soloing a couple of routes on black slab. Richard finished by leading one of the routes on black slab and then dropping a piece of kit down one of the gaps which was a challenge for Peter & Simon to try and rescue. Donal & Peter climbed some of the routes around Fly wall and then headed further right to climb Hell crack. They may well have climbed some other stuff as well – but Peter enjoyed his first visit to the crag. 

Donal wanted to get of of Yorkshire to do some longer routes so Rob, Donal and I headed across to Borrowdale to Sheperd’s Crag. This is a crag I’ve never been to but always quite fancied Little Chamonix, the classic 3-star VDiff of the crag.

Waiting to attempt the crux on Little Chamonix (VDiff ***), snippets of advice regarding my reflection in the polished hold I needed stand on in a few moments, the view was magnificent.

It wasn’t an early start, made even less early by a stop at the cafe below the crag for a brew before we started climbing for the day. Brewed up, the first stop was Little Chamonix,it really is a lovely climb, we did it in three pitches but had to wait for the party ahead of us, not the easiest option given I was sitting on a polished slanting block just before the crux (even the banter from Donal and Rob about being able to see my face in the polished holds of the crux, given from their nice flat belay stance didn’t put me off – too much) but as compensation the view down Derwentwater was stunning in the early afternoon sunshine.

Rob completing the picturesque final pitch of Little Chamonix, below him were two solo climbers who just nipped up on their way to another crag!

Once the route cleared we finished the upper pitches, the route has varied climbing styles and definitely deserves its reputation. Next stop Fishers Folly (VS 4c,4b), this was supposed to be 2 pitches but I strung it together into one. Good technical climbing up to the first belay stance followed by an airy traverse. Two options are described in the guide book for the finish, either straight through the overhang on good hold or to its right with additional traversing to boot. I tried for the overhang but failed, after several attempts, to find the good holds promised by the guide book, instead opting for the additional traverse around the overhang. A three star route on UKC but only one in the guide book, this time I think UKC has the edge. As we’d climbed two routes it must have been time for a cup of tea and some food, so we headed back to the cafe, sojourn over we headed for Donkeys Ears (S 4a), it was fun, but the route felt like more of a scramble, I think we messed up on the top pitch an ended up the VDiff finish but other than the hand traverse at the beginning of pitch two the climbing never really materialised. As the midges we now incoming we headed home, nearly, due to some poor diversion signs, via Gateshead!