York Alpine Club Blog

It was the day after the club Christmas do, so we couldn't face the pre-dawn start that would be needed to get to anything much in the Lakes, so instead we decided on a speculative trip to the Dales. Plan A was to wander up to High Cup Nick, where there are apparently a couple of winter routes, but as we reached Appleby decided we couldn't be bothered with the massive 3 mile walk in, so turned round and headed for Wild Boar Fell instead.

We didn't really expect anything to be in, as it's relatively low (about 400m) and the main watercourses are fast flowing. So we were pleasantly surprised when we pulled into the layby and saw a small but perfectly formed ice fall about 30 seconds from the road.

Unfortunately there was no more above, but it made a pleasant little grade II warm up.

Next we wandered along towards Ais Gill. As expected, the lower falls were still very wet. The middle falls were much icier, but also much wetter.

Luckily Carmen spotted an icy chimney which provided an escape route, again about II/III.

The smaller upper falls looked feasible, in a wet sort of way, but fortunately access was barred by thin ice over deep water so we walked up the side instead.

Finally, we went for a quick look at Hell Gill on the other side of the road. The main falls looked promising from the road, but turned out to be very wet still, with the ice at the top seemingly not attached to the rock. Closer inspection showed that the ice in the middle wasn't attached to much either! But given this week's temperatures it may be climbable by now.

The continuation of Hell Gill further up the hill goes through a deep narrow slot canyon. We had a brief look from the top, and there was no sign of any ice at all down there – presumably it would take a much longer freeze to come into condition.

 

More photos here.

During the unseasonably cold start to December, the ice climbing mecca of the North York Moors came into condition earlier than usual. The only question was: where to go? Landslip, Maiden Spring, Raven's Scar – the list of top quality winter venues goes on and on.

Me, Andy and Matt eventually decided on Cringle Crag – usually the first of the Moors crags to come into condition and sporting lines from grade III ridges to tech 8 mixed test pieces. We managed to get the car as far as the cattle grid halfway up Carlton Bank by having two of us pushing and using a weaving action to wear through the snow. I fear we may also have worn through Matt's clutch.

The views on the walk up Carlton Bank were ridiculous. It looked like an Alpine ski resort after a devastating avalanche. Where the snow plough had been up, the walls of snow either side were higher than the stone wall. Hopes of a bacon sarnie in Lord Stones cafe were dashed when we found the picnic tables had two feet of snow on top. We were also disappointed to see no sign of a trail up to Cringle Moor.

We set out breaking trail, using a combination of crawling, swimming and occasionally stopping to declare: "it's hopeless". Walking along the tops of dry stone walls is not to be recommended, particularly when they have a 6 inch cornice to hide the edge. 3 hours later we made it to the summit of Cringle Moor and peered into the gloom to try and spy the icefalls. For future reference, the first crags which are visible just below the path did not have any worthwhile ice (though they would give some good short mixed challenges).

Eventually we found a small climbable icefall lower down before continuing across the face looking for "Cringle Ridge" (apparently 45m of Grade III – we never found it). On the way however, we came across the small recess containing the Franco Cookson route "Tell Chris Craggs Nowt" on the left. This was full of very solid but somewhat short icefalls (perhaps 4m maximum). We soloed a nice icy corner on the right before setting up a top rope on a steeper fall to the left. This gave good climbing and we spiced things up for Andy by giving him 2 metres of slack for his top rope fall. We finished up snow slopes above, outflanking a genuine Yorkshire cornice on the left.

The quickest way to get to these crags is to walk about 0.5km along the Cleveland way until shortly before the path starts dropping down you descend left.

On the way out we met a soloist who had made use of our tracks and got up in much quicker time. He'd found another small icefall to climb. I believe if there had been a thaw and refreeze the potential for ice would have been much better. As it was, all seepage was frozen into the ground. It's also very difficult to find anything on the face because the crags are so broken. But nonetheless, the novelty of climbing moors ice was achieved!

Will and I made the most of the recent very cold spell and headed for Cautley Spout in the Howgills yesterday. Leaving at a reasonable 6am and -6 or so we arrived via clear roads, and cold temps(min -13) to a car park with 2 cars – bugger. Short flat stunning walk-in and we met two teams – a pair and a 3 (inc Pete Nugent ex of this parish). A few small steps lead to the main pitch 30m of ice up a huge fall (mixed variant on left a possibility).

First leader made steady/slowish progress but left the gear in for their mates (plenty of screws in thick ice and wires at the top). Top out looking like the awkward bit, and avoiding a drenching from the spray also tricky. The top of the main falls was in full sunshine all morning and with quite a flow, looking a bit dubious the more traffic it got.

After the usual waiting about and a bit of bouldering and running laps on the first steps to keep warm a soloist/er, kitted out like a pro, appeared and in the normal way went for a look off line before coming back onto the main line, made some weak excuse – but I wanted him out of our way so suggested he get on with it. He called down a few times for us to follow as he 'wouldn't knock anything down' – tell that to the lump that caught me square under the eye – thanks. He starts to faff at the last 6m step up the melting ice – then calls me up – oh dear.

I catch him up – he's apologetic (as he bloody well should be) and basically he's shafted. I place a few screws and end up untying one rope and giving it to him so he can 'lead up'. I then have to tell him to drop the rope for me to reattach and carry on. Would have been less painful if I wasn't stood full in the spray at this time. I did garner a lovely wet-look finish to my sac – the frozen spray making it shiny and stiff! Anyhow I tied on, placed some wires and finished the pitch – mainly easy mixed. I'd lost my rhythm a bit but was trying to be sanguine so as not to ruin the experience. Belay to a huge tree and try to warm my toes and dry my hands – had to wring out my gloves!

Will was freezing cold (having rejected the offer of a belay jacket – plonker) but romped up the pitch and lead the next short step just for some ice screw placement practice. We coiled the ropes – well when I say coiled – some bits were stiff as rods from the spray.

What we hadn't realised was quite how good the continuation steps/pitches are. Must be 4 decent mini pitches in really good nick. Catching up the group of 3 as they pitched the last section, we soon were at the top having soloed from the top of P1/P2. Top day out, easy walk in and out.

We drove back via Tebay to have a look at the falls but it was getting dark and we couldn't be arsed although there is some good thin ice lines there, didn't really want to put our wet clothes back on and set up top ropes. Will apparently drove back as I woke up at Scotch Corner!

Full set of pix