waterslide left hand
Tuesday's intended crag was Eastby, but the BMC had requested no climbing on the main buttress due to nesting Kestrels. Hence, Simon had suggested Raven's Scar on the NYM instead. There are several nesting Fulmars at Raven's Scar (even mentioned in the guidebook), but presumably the BMC do not regard vomiting shite hawks with the same reverence as majestic falcons and so there were no bird restrictions here.
The evening was perfect weather and so, leaving work later than I would have liked, I nipped up the A19. All very speedy, until roadworks north of Thirsk ended rapid progress and I sat for half an hour in very slow moving traffic. Eventually parking the car at the top of Hasty Bank, I met Dave who had sat in the same traffic, so we marched off to the crag together.
When we got there, Simon and Carmen were already doing battle with Waterslide Left Hand (HS 4b*), which as the name suggests, is best avoided in anything but prolonged dry weather. Despite the green appearance though, Simon declared it 'better than it looks'. Dave and myself opted for Forest Face (HS 4b), a three star route described as a 'severe leader’s dream' (!). Despite this description, the exposed position concentrates the mind and stops you nodding off. With varied climbing and good gear where you need it, it certainly deserves the stars. I sat on top and admired the scenery whilst bringing Dave up. The silence was only occasionally punctuated by Simon’s harsh tones informing Carmen that “No! You can’t come down”.
By now, the sun was almost disappearing (did I mention that we had been delayed in traffic?), so Dave chose to lead the now inappropriately named Sunshine Slab (VD). Although short, this again is varied climbing over jammed blocks, a delicate corner and even a mantleshelf finish – all packed into a mere 10 metres.
Airlift
We returned to pack our sacks in the impending gloom and met up with Simon, who since our last encounter had done Airlift Variation (S 4a) and Galaxy (VD). In fact, for the last route, the increasing lack of light had presumably impaired their route finding efforts and they had actually climbed Castor (D) by mistake.
Back at the top of the crag, Carmen was nowhere to be seen. Slightly concerned for her welfare, we spent several seconds looking for her before assuming that she must have already headed for the car. We found her a few minutes later at the top of the descent steps, guiltily consuming a late supper which, given her sharp departure from the crag, she clearly had no intention of sharing!
As we returned to the cars, our happiness at another fine evening’s climbing was only slightly dampened by the realisation that the evenings were now drawing in.
