Posts Tagged ‘Almscliff’

What to do with this rainy summer weather? PART 1

Thursday, July 10th, 2008

Wednesday 9th July

So there I was on the phone with Peri,  she said "it's the best day of the week let's go outside"…..

I said I had to be back by 4:00 pm as my daughter was staying with me.  So we decided on Almscliffe.  Now I have not been to Almscliffe since 1995, the thoughts of "the polished horrors of Almscliffe" were going through my head.

Any way Peri picked me up and we started heading out of York on the A59 as we past over the A1 it was bugger the Yorkshire show….. well it was only 11:30 and the traffic had not started to build up, but we decided that we would come back to York via a different route.

Well we walked up to the crag and decided to start on something easy,  Peri said we could start on fluted columns.  I looked at the route from the bottom and said OK I will lead this.  Well it had its thought provoking moments ( only my fourth outdoor trad lead all year) but i was a very good climb.  Peri then led Flake climb another nice climb, good jams and good gear.  Hmm now where is all the Polish ?

We started to get a few drops of rain falling on us so we decide to shelter by the Matterhorn boulder and wait to see if it was going to pour down, the shower soon moved on so we walked up to High Man as Peri wanted to climb Birds nest crack.  She led the route very nicely with a few small rain drops falling around us, as I started to second the route I found some of the Almscliffe polish.  But it is a good route with good gear and some very good hand and arm jams.

Anyway after this we went back to the Low man and I lead Stew Pot to finish off a very enjoyable day ( the rain had started to fall a lot heavier, so we left).  We went back to York via Tadcaster to avoid any show traffic problems.

Almscliffe was a lot better than I remember it and will have to go back soon.

Dodging the rain at Almscliff

Thursday, June 12th, 2008

Monday 2nd june. After several days dodgy weather, Will put out an email suggesting a monday dash over to almscliff before the next forecast band of rain.  This sounded like a fine idea, so ignoring the ominously lowering cloudbase we both set off.

Wills first target was Square Chimney/Whisky Crack(VS), as his previous stab at this was thwarted due to an accident on the Matterhorn Boulder just behind him. We did the route as alt leads – surely a first for a route under 15 metres long – Will knocking off Square Chimney ,  while I thrutched up Whiskey Crack on Swear Power.

After that I showed Will my favourite route on the crag – Zig Zag Direct,  which has a satisfyingly dynamic but non-strenuous overhang move – easy once you know the sequence!

Finally, both knackered but well pleased, we finished up on Cup and Saucer.  Will bridged the gap between the weirdly contorted wall and capping boulder  stylishly but I decided my stumpy little legs wouldnt do that so wiggled up the inside of the crack iguana stylee.  As we drove off the heavens finally opened and the rain lashed down – perfect timing.