Posts Tagged ‘Lakes’

Not firing on all cylinders …

Monday, July 14th, 2008

or maybe just too tired. Alan Walmsly and I headed over to the lakes Sat morning and went to Castle Rock where we both have routes on our wishlist. Castle Rock is steep and stays dry in light rain but we were surprised to find a few seepage lines.

I started up Thirlmere Eliminate (E1 4c,4c,5b) with some interesting moves of a flake, the first pitch is soon over. Al then headed across on the traverse to a dripping corner not wasting much energy placing gear, a cool headed lead up the bold hanging rib/arete just past the wet corner. Belayed to a peg and 3 nuts it was my turn at the sharp end. The route goes over / around an overhang using the right wall, which had a nice stream running down it in a few auxiliary holds, but most of the footholds were dry. An adequate rock 3 protects the moves – if I could commit to them – which I couldn't despite 3 goes. The crucial hand hold was sopping and the next was a thin layback – with wet fingers – no thanks. Al had a pop and we called it a day – abbing from a tree back to the ground.

We recused the day with an ascent of Overhanging Bastion (VS+ 4a,4b,5a) some 18 years since I'd previously led it! Top route with Al getting the wet pitch again – hmmm. The grade has yoyo'd between VS and HVS for years, the crux move i found easy for 5a but bold as brass – I'd give it HVS 4c overall and recommend doing it in 2 pitches to the Yew tree belay – one of my fav places.

The Pub at Seatoller was closed – what use is that!

Sunday saw us flog up to high Crag in Buttermere, a compact crag with a whole bag full of good mid range routes. We started off on the classic High Crag Buttress (HVS 5a,5a). Al led up to the 'eyes' clipping a stuck friend en route. Continuing up the 'nose' between them awkwardly (5a not 4c) to a great belay cove. I followed dreamily, spending about 15 mins not getting the friend out (it's shagged despite initial appearances). Quick (ahem) change over and off I went, boldly up the rib on the right to a solid thread, then quite delicately and wildly out on a traverse before pulling up into a groove so to the top. Abbed down, through a dead sheep with ropes lying in a puddle !

That took us ages, and combined with a late start and a total feeling of lethargy we decided to call it a day – The Philistine (E1 5b *** photo) will have to wait for some sunshine – a commodity severely lacking over the weekend – until we started out drive/sleep home.

So basically we both felt knackered and not quite up for it the whole w/e but still got a couple of excellent routes in top places, given the initial forecast pretty good all in all.

Another good w/e the lakes …

Sunday, June 15th, 2008

World Juggling Day celebrates juggling and Ambleside the local venue — but bugger that there's climbing to be done ! Hooking up with YAC prospective, known to some from Leeds Wall and Brimham, Paul Cookson (Cookie), I had a top w/e in Langdale. Pavey Ark on Sat. and Gimmer on Sunday both avoiding the showers (just) and even seeing some sun.

Pavey yielded Arcturus (HVS+), Golden Slipper (HVS-) and Capella (E1-)- all good and very different routes well worth doing. Middle pitch of GS is total stunner 4c, good wires and only just HVS (Almscliff VS), as good as any anywhere – get it done.

Sunday more overcast and warm for the long slog up to Gimmer (leaving all 3 guidebooks in the campsite!)  – but cool and windy when we arrived. Kipling Groove is one of Cookies dream routes (the other being Dream…) so we did it, I didn't realise that the hard pitch was for me! Having done it 15 or more years ago I only remember vague bits of it and its harder than I remembered, maybe the hardest we did all w/e, but probably for sustained and wild situations not technical reasons.
Cookie also led Ash Tree Corner, a well protected VS with some interesting awkward but safe moves and never strenuous.

Great routes on virtually empty crags – no queues and good company.