Posts Tagged ‘Pinnacle Ridge’

Pinnacles and ravens

Tuesday, March 9th, 2010

a clear sunny day in the mountains

We started off more or less on time but got caught out by the Harrogate commuter traffic on the A59 – note,  it starts at 7.30 am and is already solid at 8.00 – and so were later than planned .  But it was a brilliant sunny morning with a sharp frost, so we were looking forward to a good day in the lakes

With a spring thaw underway me and Rob decided to keep our options as open as poss, so headed up the Honister Pass with the idea that if Plan A (Green Gable) was out, we could head on to Great Gable (Plan B).

When we arrived at Green Gable there was loads of snow, and also signs of a recent cornice collapse, but disappointingly the crag itself was in the sun and almost bare of ice and snow, so it was time for Plan B.We were happy enough with this as both of us really fancied Pinnacle Ridge, a 3 star grade 3 mixed route on Gable.

Pinnacle Ridge

The ridge (number 2 in the route pic above) was excellent, although the snow was somewhat soft and collapsing – I managed to lead us astray on the first pitch as I was magneticaly drawn to the solid looking rock on the left in preference to the collapsing white stuff. Rob then diverted up a snow gully to save time and we made the next pitch a traverse back on route.In fact it wasnt a bad diversion – the traverse was good fun, ending in a delicate little step down and up into a chimney.

 

From there I had one of the best belays ever – sitting on top of a comfortable pinnacle watching the ravens. We had the whole crag to ourselves and the day was so clear and still I could hear the whoosh of the raven's wings and see the white mountain ridges radiating out to the sea. It was one of those magical moments that make you realise why you  go climbing.

 

The rest of the route was short but full of interest, with a chockstone pitch (rob) and a short wall (me), all decently protected. We finished up on a narrow snow ridge

The chockstone pitch

 

(good consolidated stuff by now) to the summit and walked back under a magnificent sunset.

 

 

 

 

 

 

More of Rob's Pix:

A Winter Round of Helvellyn.

Saturday, December 6th, 2008

With snow on the ground in York and Rowntree Park pond frozen over, various folk were talking of winter conditions near and far.

The following party on the classic pinnacle shot

Peri was off to Scotland for some Munro bagging and down jacket testing, we thought we would risk our luck closer to home and try the Lake District. We all know how hit and miss it can be there, so decided to go equipped for all events. Kirk even packed his rockshoes! That way we could either walk or try to climb something.
Seven o'clock and Pete McDonald picked up Kirk and I, then Guido on route. Over the A66 and down to the ever popular Glenridding. Guido with his wealth of experience had predicted that Pinnacle Ridge on St Sunday Crag would be doable in any condition.

Grabbing a handy parking spot at the bottom of the walk in valley, we donned our boots and hats and skidded on up the valley.

Steep snow on the approach plod

The MWIS had predicted cold conditions and had proved to be spot on, the day had dawned clear and bright. The farm track was riddled with frozen puddles and would catch you out the moment you dropped your guard.
Eventually you leave the track at a small plantation and zig zag up the side of the hill to where you contour around to the bottom of Pinnacle Ridge. It can be hard to pick out, but we eventually located it and started kicking steps up some steep snow.

The snow was quite deep covered with a frozen crust. After the steep snow through some broken rocks we eventually found ourselves at the bottom of the ridge proper. I think this is regarded as the crux when done as a summer scramble and has a wall with a crack in and a corner on the right. As we were soloing at this point, I chose to bridge my way up the right-hand corner, which felt nice and secure. The next section was quite steep and offered 3 choices,

I tried left and got a bit stuck and had to reverse back. Pete tried the centre and got up, I resorted to the right-hand variant, which I think Guido and Kirk did too.

First man up-Jim on the crux

The next obstacle was the Pinnacle, I presume this gives the route its name and where all the photos get taken. No bother to climb, but looking down from the top is a different story. All I could see was a steep snow covered slab. However Pete Mac soon managed to descend it by hanging off his axe which he had hooked over the top edge. Pete located a few buried footholds and I managed to downclimb it without having to use the sling I had taken out of my pack.
We were then treated to watching Guido and Kirk and a following party of two navigate on and off it, while getting lots of good photos.
All that remained was an easier bit of scrambling and step kicking till we gained the final summit slope of St Sunday Crag.


We paused on top for a bite to eat and a drink and headed off in glorious sunshine and clear blue skies over Cofa Pike and up onto Fairfield.

Looking down the crux at the crowds behind us

Lots of people out on the ridges and the snow was deep and secure enough to not have to wear crampons. From Fairfield we descended to Grisedale Tarn, enjoying three sections of sliding down on our bums and using our axes as a brake.
From here we were faced with a long slog up Dollywagon Pike and then Helvellyn. It was here I found it really hard going, I had been suffering a cold all week and my lungs were starting to feel it.

I also developed a cramp in my upper right leg, so I downed a Power Gel.

The superb ridge to Cofa Pike & Fairfield

Vile is the only word I can describe, the taste was awful and the consistancy was something similar to what arrives in nappies.
I plodded on after the others and found the cramp wearing off as I crested Helvellyn. Thanks for waiting 10 minutes Guido, Pete and Kirk.
It was thought a better idea to descend Swirral Edge as it is shorter and a bit easier than Striding Edge and the sun was just touching the horizon treating us to a splendid sunset.  We made good time and were walking out of the corrie with good light. However this soon faded and we spent a good part of the next hour slipping and sliding down the path.

Some spots were soft, other bits were hard water ice. We even saw one guy fall over wearing crampons!

A lone Skier descends into a Helvellyn sunset

The conditions were so bad we had to slip into the 'Traveller's Rest' pub where a few pints were downed and we recovered enough to walk back to the car.
All in all one of the best days out in a while, Thanks to Pete for driving, thanks to Guido for the route choice and I can't wait till we can get out again.