Another sunny weekend, another obscure crag, though this time its one whose obscurity is entirely undeserved and hard to explain. Standing Stones, although dismissed as 'Falling Stones' some 50 years ago (before anyone had actually climbed there), is a short 15 minute walk from the road, faces south so gets all the sunshine going, and boasts many superb routes, mainly in the range Severe to E1, including possibly three of the best VSs in the Peak.
For many years you used to have to phone in advance to ask for permission to climb there. Not an issue, as permission was always granted, but I suppose it may have put people off. Otherwise, the only problem is the lack of belays at the top – they're there, but sometimes need a lot of searching for.
Anyway, after a gap of a few years (during which we tended to keep on walking past the crag, headed for the equally-good but north-facing and often-green Ravenstones), we were back. It was unusually busy when we got there – 4 other people – and there was a team on my intended warm-up route. So instead I led Guillotine, S 4b *, not a bad route though a bit vegetated at the top. Then my route was free, Smiler's Corner HS 4b, but it was Carmen's lead so she got it instead. An excellent line, worth 2 stars.
Next was Fairy Nuff (VS 4c ***), a contender for the best VS in the Peak. It didn't look too hard, but looks can be deceptive! Up to a roof, traverse left to the arete, up to a niche, big exposed step back right to a hanging arete, then up a crack in the arete to the top. Each section felt like the crux, but each was followed by another that was just as hard. Super stuff, took me ages, I was relieved when Carmen also had trouble with some of it (though of course breezed the bit that I found hardest).
Next it was Carmen's turn, Twin Crack Corner (VS 4b ***), given the 'top 50' accolade in the latest Rockfax guide. Excellent protection and sustained quality climbing, should be on every HS/VS leader's to-do list.
Now, after 4 fine routes on excellent quality rock, it was about time for some choss. So we wandered down the left end of the crag, where nobody ever goes. The intended route was covered with bits of rubble from a rockfall earlier this year, and a big rock seemed to be balanced precariously at the top. So instead, I went for Boo, a VDiff farther left, in an area which is omitted entirely from the Rockfax book. I wonder why. I'd actually intended climbing around here anyway at some point, due entirely for the fine selection of route names: Ning, Nang, Nong, Bong, and Boo.
Anyway, the bottom half of the route was vegetated rubbish. The top half turned out to be rather good, a constricted chimney pitch starting with a technical move out to a ledge on the arete, followed by either a safe tight squirm (my method on lead) or bold unprotected bridging up the outside (Carmen's method on the safe end of the rope!). Unfortunately, as I carefully avoided a large bit of rubble from the rockfall (so much for being out of the firing line) and topped out, it became clear that the pinnacle on which the route finished was in imminent danger of total collapse, the ground behind it being full of holes and ditches as the earth is gradually washed down the gully to the side. Mind you, it has been like this for at least 5 years – but it was still a little worrying and I'm not sure I'd recommend the route to anyone else!
The sun was now off the crag, and the gentle breeze dropped – result = midges. So we left.
More photos here.