After the traditional week of sunny weather, the autumn camping meet started with low cloud and drizzle. Undaunted (well maybe slightly) we set off for the mile's walk from the campsite to the nearest crag, Kyloe. Wet grass meant that we mostly had soaked feet by the time we arrived, and of course much of the crag was wet.
We'd expected to have a quick look for routes before moving on to the nearest tea room. So of course Mike racked up at the foot of the wettest looking buttress and set off Trinity, a tough VS with the crux at the top.
The others milled around looking for some enthusiasm. Meanwhile Carmen and I continued a bit further in the search for vaguely dry rock, and were rewarded with Birdlime Crack(MS) which was so steep that it was sheltered from the rain, while juggy enough to warrant its lowly grade. Until over the bulge of course, where it turned more slabby and hence wet. Much easier though, just as well!
At about this point the mizzle eased off, and more of the crag was suddenly climbable. Ascents were made of (among others) Cloister Wall, Coldstream Corner, Conifer Direct, Flake Crack, Eeny, Meeny, Christmas Tree Arete (both standard and direct finish)Deception Crack, Wilfred Prickles, Fakir's Crack. Jamie wrapped things up with a solo of Mo before we all headed back for a well earned barbecue courtesy of Mariana.
Sunday was drier though still cloudy, and with a cold westerly wind. We mostly headed for Bowden Doors, which being east facing was fairly sheltered. Remembering the crag's reputation for sandbag grade we started cautiously, but over the day ascents were made of Castle Wall, Guards Exit, Russet Groove. Castle Crack, Black Crack, Blind Wall, Arrow Crack, The Runnel, Banana Wall, Grovel Groove, The Scoop, Black and Tan, and Flake Crack. To finish Mike announced he' was tired and had had enough and duly set off up Overhanging Crack (E2 5c) .
Not sure why we'd left it so long since our last visit to the area some 20 years ago, though the weather may have something to do with it! Anyway, I'm sure we won't wait for 20 years before our next trip!