York Alpine Club Blog

Still suffering after last weekend's run, we couldn't face the early start needed to join the others in Grindleford for 9am. So a very lazy start saw us arrive at Agden Rocher at about 12.30.

Agden where? No it's not the best known crag in the Peak District. But unusually for me, it's not some scrappy little choss-pile either. In fact, it's probably the most under-rated crag in the Peak. This is largely due to the 1983 guidebook, which gave it a worse write-up than the (genuinely bad) Stannington Ruffs. 'Rockfall is probable', 'climbs rely on suspect rock', 'changes in grade will occur with time', 'the top is rubble merging to grass', and so on.

The reality is rather different. Although there is some loose rock, there's far less than at many popular limestone crags, and the chossy topouts on parts of the crag are no worse than those at Millstone. To its credit the 2005 guidebook goes some way to putting the record straight. 'Plenty of sunshine', 'position and outlook unrivalled in the Peak'. Sadly, it gives a very abbreviated coverage of much of the crag and many worthwhile routes are described as 'poor'; but it's a start!

We'd been many times before and already done most of the 'classics', so we started with the first decent-looking route we came to, "The New Foggy Dew" (Severe). This replaced "The Foggy Dew", an old Diff that was lost in a rockfall sometime in the late 70s, and starts below an alarming-look semi-detached block before moving right beneath it as quickly as possible. The block is mentioned in the 1983 guide as 'about to disappear' but it's still there 26 years later, so is presumably more solidly attached than it looks! From here the route steps back left in a fine exposed position before continuing direct to the top of the crag, with a though-provoking 'sting in the tail' to finish.

By now it was clear that the forecast sunshine had been and gone while we were still asleep, and the wind was more than a little bracing. But despite this, I headed for Double De-Clutch (VS 4c *), a fine looking arete. 20 minutes later and only 3m from the ground, I finally admitted defeat, as I couldn't do what was presumably the crux, so I finished up the adjacent corner of Disappointment (VDiff) instead. A suitably named route in the circumstances, though with some surprisingly good climbing. Carmen seconded up the arete I'd backed off, and made me feel better by finding it tough.

By now it was getting cold, so I stepped down a gear with Agden Arete (HS 4a), described as 'poor' in the new guide, but I've learned to ignore such things. And it turned out to be a very nice route – too disjointed to be worth a star, but with some interesting climbing. After a hard start, it was a pleasant VDiff – maybe HVD 4b overall.

Finally, in attempt to get out of the wind, I led Square Chimney (VDiff), the original route of the crag first climbed in 1914. It turned out to be no more than Diff, which was just as well, as the long-threatening clouds arrived in force and we were duly rained off the crag.

We'll be back for more before too long, and I'd recommend the crag to anyone interested in some quality climbing off the beaten track. We've done loads of good routes at VS and below, and for the non-punters among us there are many more starred routes from HVS up to E4.