I've been meaning to climb at the Kinder Downfall area ever since I saw the photo of Zig Zag in On Peak Rock some 15 years ago. other than a quick scramble up the downfall itself, circumstances (normally in the form of rain) have always conspired to thwart my plans, until last weekend when we finally made the 90 minute walk from Snake Pass.
It was hot and sunny with a gentle breeze gale to keep the midges away as we eventually reached the crag. Zig Zag (VDiff ***) was out of the sun and in the wind, so extra layers were donned and Carmen quickly reached the top – the route has more jugs per metre than any other route I've done! Somehow it was both shorter and less exposed than it appears in the photos, but the climbing is all superb.
As we descended we noticed we were no longer alone – some-one was abbing down near our intended next route, Great Chimney (HS 4b ***). Bloody top-roping punters, they get everywhere, trust our luck to have to queue at a crag nobody ever goes to. It soon became clear that this particular top-roping punter was Sam Whittaker cleaning a death-on-a-stick Last Great Problem, so we had our route to ourselves. A tricky route (ie I made a fist of it) but got to the top successfully in the end, muttering about sandbags. Briefly watched the LGP (quick progress was being made, I half expected to read the UKC headlines that evening reporting a successful lead, but nothing yet) before wandering off to the next buttress.
Here we did The Mermaid's Ridge, a 2-pitch HS (or VS in Rockfax) 4b, 4c *** – I led both pitches, and each was worth 3 stars in its own right. Worth the long walk just for this one route.
Final destination in our brief tour was Kinder Upper Western Buttress. Carmen led South Wall (VDiff **), likened in the guidebook to Heaven Crack at Stanage – a very pleasant route but a bit short. It was getting late by now so I abandoned thoughts of Extinguisher Chimney (VS 4c ***) and decided to have a quick look at Spike Chimney (Diff **). But as we approached, a peregrine appeared noisily from the adjacent chimney and flew round screeching wildly.
Sensing that perhaps we weren't welcome, we packed up and after a quick solo of another Diff out of harm's way, went home.
A great place to go, I'll try to arrange a club trip over the summer.
More photos here