Posts Tagged ‘Stanage popular’

Stanage 3rd August

Monday, August 4th, 2008

Me and my nut keyCef, Debbie and friend Liz, on her first ever outdoor trip set off for Stanage, followed by Alan and Peri. Weather looked somewhat iffy but managed to hold off raining for the day.

Cef lead Black Hawk Traverse Left – VDiff/Severe ***. I went second and found this a bit unnerving with the wind which got stronger the nearer to the top. I had a nut key on sale or return from Rob which I had chance to use, and must say, it is a smashing key because I managed to get gear out on all of the climbs without getting annoyed with stuck stuff! Liz took a bit of a swing on this route when her foot slipped off but it turned out she swung to the exact spot she needed to be to complete the climb, so that was ok and not cheating at all.

Then we did Physiology VDiff 1* which was nice. We then moved further on to do Right Hand Trinity Severe 4a ** which was also a great climb, with a couple of unexpected tricky moves. At this point Liz downclimbed the descent, then went off in the wrong direction unbeknown to me and Cef. After a short while I thought I'd better go and look for her, and eventually found her wandering around looking puzzled at the far end of the crag. Yes to the untrained eye one area of crag does look much like another!

We then did Leaning buttress crack VDiff ** and were going to call it a day when Peri and Alan met up with us and said they would do one more climb. Peri and Cef went off to do Via Media VS * and Alan led Leaning Buttress Direct HVS 5b *. I then went up second but cheated at the beginning and went round the side, which wasn't good and I was cross with myself that I didn't even give the proper beginning much of a try. Alan told me off further up the route for trying to get my leg up too high which was justifiably right as when I took smaller steps I managed to do the bit I was stuck on ok.

Then we all left, except Alan who stayed to camp over.

Thank you all for a great day.

All quiet on the Stanage Front

Monday, July 28th, 2008

Wierder and wierder. It was a perfect sunday morning on the first really hot weekend of the year, Cefyn, Debbie, her friend Katie and me were at Stanage Popular end, but where was everyone else? Discounting theories about mass zombie attacks wiping out most of the nation while we drove down (well, you have to consider all the possibilities) we decided that most of the locals had decided it was far too hot for gritstone. So instead of the queuefest we had anticipated, we had our pick of routes – except for Black Hawk Hell Crack, which was already occupied by Andy and James – the sick puppies had got up before 7am on a sunday in order to be early on the crag. I desperately wanted to do BHHC, partly because it is a two star route, but mostly because it has a really cool name and sounds like you've done something dead hard even though its only Severe. So, like an obsessive ticker, I queued to finally lead the thing.

Shortly afterwards Jon from the york wall arrived, giving us the opportunity to split up into smaller teams. I teamed up with Jon, who led Z Crack (VS 4c), a one move wonder with a puzzlingly awkward start – totally intimidating till you find the good hidden holds – and also Leaning Buttress Direct – HVS 5b, with one of the main puzzlers being how the hell you ever get off the ground, followed by a difficult move off a ledge and then an almost completely unprotected top half. Rather him than me… I stuck to easier stuff – Gargoyle Flake, VS 4b, a nice route with an enjoyable hand traverse.

Meanwhile James and Andy were busy knocking off the ticks – Crack and Corner, HVD 4b, Sociology (S), Castle Crack and Christmas Crack, both HS, and Right Hand Trinity (severe). Cefyn Debbie and Katie did Flying Buttress(HVD) among others. I dont know which others as Cefyn doesnt do a UKC log for me to sneak a peak at.

Well, our original plan had been to stay till late if the weather held, but some folk are never satisfied, it was just too hot and sticky. Never mind complicated arguments about sticky rubber and friction, our hands were slick with sweat, the rock felt greasy and our energy levels were falling faster than a dropped cam. Andy and Jon were first to decamp, Jon muttering something about needing to drive up to the lakes to meet Rob, Andy on tea cooking duty. The rest of us announced intentions to do one more route each, these mutated into "follow James up Holly Bush Crack" – a bit of a demon slaying exercise for James as last time he was at Stanage he witnessed a bad accident on this route. As we reconvened at the top a consensus emerged – it was beer o'clock. We headed back into the outskirts of Sheffield and the 'Hammer and Pincers' and sank ice cold beers before heading home