To make the most of the midweek sun before the uni term began, Rob, Pete, Tony and I met at Stanage last Thurs for a day's climbing in the peak. Following some sophisticated weather forecasting (i.e looking where the clouds were then heading in the other direction) we headed off to Curbar.
Apart from a pair of boulderers and a paraglider that scared the hell out of me by appearing suddenly over Rob's head whilst I was belaying (and to which he was oblivious) we had the place to ourselves.
An empty Curbar in the October sun
Pete and Tony set off to attack Pete's ticklist, whilst Rob kindly continued my education in trad gritstone by sending me up the easiest(!) chimneys, offwidths, slabs and cracks he could find. I can now recognise the verb “to udge” and have the bruises to prove it. Every climb I seconded was enjoyable in different ways – I hadn't realised before the variety in styles you could have within a grade range along a short stretch of crag, and learnt a lot along the way.
I may be sticking my tongue out in concentration, but look, I'm using my feet!
I learnt the perils of relying on guidebooks after failing to trust (and falling off) the large and loose-feeling flake at the top of 'Slab route' an S route in the rockfax guide, that Black Rock to Froggatt grades harder and recommends be avoided as a finish as its decidedly dodgy. I agree!
Pete started his way carefully up the classic Elder Crack, until placing a massive Cam of Doom ™ allowed him to retreat. Deep in the crack, this then evaded retrieval via abseil, a tense scenario, finally resolved to the relief of all (but particularly Pete's wallet).
We ended the day on a pair of Severes, one of which I seconded then led on preplaced gear. I really struggled with the top section the first time up, and nearly wussed out of leading it at all, but glad I did as was so much easier once I knew where the holds are. Sounds obvious but I hadn't twigged this before. Rob's last suggestion was that I lead the adjoining route. I was nervous because I've only led a handful of routes on my own gear, (M-VD) but sodded it and had a go.
It went fine until I got to the top section (which I had already climbed as it was shared with the previous route) and got a bit stuck. Knowing that I had placed the gear I was above freaked me out. (It was a bomber nut, but I didn't know that :p ) I was too scared even to swear (my usual coping strategy) but with the sun setting and everyone else getting chilly I talked and tiptoed myself up it cleanly and was proper chuffed in the end.
We then packed up and descended down the wrong path in the twilight, but found the car park eventually and headed for home. An excellent quick trip, definitely beats a day in the office.
