Posts Tagged ‘Froggatt’

Wet Widdop Weservoir and a Froggie day

Sunday, October 30th, 2011

widdop in the autumn sun

Here is the short version of our Sunday bouldering:
Me, Graham and Angela went to Widdop, it were gopping wet, we stayed a while then went home.

The longer version – well, it was gopping wet. We stayed till 3.30, but in the end only found a few problems dry enough to get up, everything was horribly slithery. But its a lovely place, overlooking the reservoir with the colours all gold tinted in the low autumn sun, and frustratingly we could see there would be lots of really good stuff with good landings (just as well coz theres a few you have to jump down from) that will be well worth returning for on a crisp dry day.






On Saturday me and Rachel went to Froggatt. Once again everything was on the soggy side and we suspected nothing much would be climbable, but in the end we did four very enjoyable routes before the weather clagged in again. I did Diamond Crack, a lovely little HS that I am amazed I have always walked past before, and Sickle Buttress Direct, slightly thin pro at the top but lovely moves. Rachel did Green Gut and Tody's Wall, which she managed very slickly.  So a nice day against the odds, but very chilly – it had the feel of one of the last trad days of the year. We were saved the decision between shivering up another route or heading for tea and cakes by the approach of a wall of grey wetness and gratefully abandoned crag for the Outside Cafe in Culver with honour intact – I recommend the St Clements cake.

Gritstone edges walk

Monday, December 15th, 2008

Grindleford Café, it may be under new management but it ain’t changed that much so here are a few of the choice signs that have decorated the place over the years.

Grindleford we luv you

I was not sure who was going to turn up on this one if anybody at all so when Peri, Stuart & I arrived at Grindleford café I was pleasantly surprised to find 11 people waiting for us. The walk is that it’s basically a figure of eight so half way round you are very close to the starting point if the weather is bad or anyone wants to drop out & go to the pub. Anyhow it’s ideal for one of those days with short daylight around Xmas.



That other factor, the weather was behaving itself, ideal for a walk, dry, cold with light winds & a promise from the met office that it would clear later in the day.

Millstone Edge

We left the café well after 10.00 & set off up Padley Gorge past Lawencefield, Millstone a brief excursion to the top of Winwards Nick then onto Higgar Tor which we missed & had to take a little detour to get to.



A coffee break was requested near Burbage North & continued past Burbage South & the quarries.

Curbar Edge

The walk now passes through the Longshaw estate, at this point we are very close to the starting point. Nobody wanted to cut it short in fact it was the reverse we were racing round the circuit as we ascended White Edge had a quick lunch stop, as it was rather exposed here nobody wanted to linger. 






 So we continued along the edge to near Curbar Gap before we turning back for the final time and followed Curbar Edge, Froggatt Edge & descended back to Grindleford by traversing under Tegness Quarry. Once back at the café we decided to adjourn to the Fox House pub & have a quick drink before setting off home.

Another classic to finish with

Big thanks to Peri, Stuart, Janet, Jacquie, Allen, Adrian, Barj, Paul, Mark (PJ), Gem, Kate, Rob & of course Jesus for joining us, hope you all enjoyed the walk.

Ancient anglo-saxon for climbers

Tuesday, August 5th, 2008

Trapeze direct, place lots of gear at the cruxAfter a successful day at Stanage me and Cef headed for Froggatt (Alan having deserted us for his beloved limestone).  We got there quite late due to a need to spend money at Outside …mmm, shiny new double ropes….[Cef Comment Peri even had some money left over to splash out on some fresh croissants and butter as she was passing the Outside cafe, recommended place to go for tea and cakes]

Our blind optimism in the weather was justified – the day got better and better as it went on and we had sunshine for most of the day. Cef started off strongly on North Climb (HVD) [Cef Comment how many #5 cams can you put in a climb?] and Sunset Crack (HS 4c), I started the day climbing like a wazzock, wallowing around at the start of  Sunset Crack while Cef struggled to keep a straight face.

searching for the \When my turn to lead came I decided to start on the easier stuff, Allen's Slab sounded like a good bet. However when we arrived a uni group was on the route – or should I say gathered round it for a social meeting while someone sat up top minding the belay. OK – plenty of other good routes, that one over to the right looked enticing – one hard move on it. Trapeze Direct, HS 4c.

Now maybe the fact that most of it looked like a ladder but it still got 4C , and also that the guide said "place lots of runners at the crux" should have been a hint – but it wasn't one I noticed.  Up I pottered to the bulging crux, placed a couple of runners, teetered up to the chock and reached over for the jug – which wasn't a jug, oh dear. come down. Try another method. come down.  Eventually I decided to discard guile and technique in favour of brute force and ignorance, which worked pretty well and up I went.  Was pleased to see the next leader perform a similar little shimmy. [Cef Comment in the old guides it was graded VS 4c, it is a stiff pullover the bulge and I did get a little bit of help from the rope…..]

Next route was Cef's – Allen's Slab Severe 4A, a very cool lead on the exposed traverse, the last steep  move on smears was quite Out There for severe I thought. [Cef Comment it has some really nice moves and generally good gear but you do need to keep a cool head]

Lovely knots in those new ropesBrand new ropes on their fourth climbNow where are the holds ?

My lead again – Slab Recess Direct, another HS 4c. The guide said the lower hold were 'unhelpul and slippery', but the finger jams were out of this world, and the gear was so good I was giving little coos of delight. Very nice route.  Cef then took another trip on the Trapeze (VD) just to complete the set.

Well, my early jitters seemed to have settled so I looked for a VS to finish off. Against Cef's advice I decided on a route called something like Hawk Crack – supposedly awkward, but a three star route. So off we headed, passing Tody's Wall HVS 5A. Or almost passing….I couldn't help loitering, it really didn't look so bad, and I'd seconded it before. The devil on my shoulder whispered 'do know you want to'. So we decided to give it a crack.  Up to the block went fine, then the wibbles set in. That 'positive' layback suddenly looked horribly rounded, and the lip very high.
Realised the size cam i needed to protect the crux had already been used lower down, I sent  the traditional loop for Cef to supply another. Put two cams in. decided my cams were now blocking a vital handhold. moved the cams. Sat back on the block for a rest (I got to like that block). Took another peek,  faffed some more,  parked my ass on the block again then smeared and hauled like a basta'rd and went for the heelhook. And after much grunting and heaving I was over, and if I could have grinned any wider the top of my head would have fallen off. Peri got a bit giddy with delight after making the move and did a little danceCef was most impressed by my grasp of ancient anglo-saxon, which I shouted to the four winds. [Cef Comment It was not the ancient english/celtic blaspheming I was worried about, it was the little jig of joy that Peri was dancing up on the ledge. I thought she might trip over the edge and test the gear!!!! ] Okay, I've seconded the route before so it was far from being an onsight,  but it was still my first  HVS lead ever.

All the gear and beautiful ropes on Tody\'s wall

Final gear and the beautiful new ropes on Tody's wall HVS 5A

[ Cef comment Of course after Peri had led it I had to follow it !!! well I eventually worked out a way to get onto the block/pedestal. This involved some thin smearing, a toe scum under the crack at the back of the top of the pedestal and a LOOOOOONG reach for the upper break. I fell off once doing this and it hurt my foot. Anyway by the time I was standing on the pedestal I was cream crackered. So I removed the gear and Peri lowered me back to the ground. I walked around to the right and traversed into the upper slab to recover all the gear. Very nice finish and lovely jamming crack. So I can now say that I have climbed 7/8ths of the route. Peri says she is willing to let people know the beta on the size and number of pieces required for the route on payment of a large quantity of beer tokens.]


Job done, we headed home as the first drops of rain finally started.